How to remove B&S engine?

14 years ago

Major engine problem on my antique riding mower. I was instructed to bring the engine to the repair people. They were going to check it out and fix it or sell me a replacement.

Spent most of the day freeing the engine--loosening corroded bolts with very inconveniently located nuts. Yeah!!!!! The engine is finally completely free from the mower. . . except for the crankshaft. In desperation, I phoned the repair people who told me all I need to do is unscrew one last bolt under the mower. They said it has a normal [can't think of the word--related to my grey hair. . . .] "turny direction." Attempting to brace the flywheel to keep it from trying to turn (or further damage whatever is stopping it from turning. . .), but absolutely cannot loosen that last bolt. Was I instructed accurately in how to remove this last connection of the engine to the mower? Any suggestions in how to unscrew the bolt? I packed it with rag soaked with WD-40, but still no go. I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly before asking for help from my strong neighbors.

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Comments (8)

User
14 years ago
Laying on your back looking UP at the crankshaft bolt that holds the pulley or PTO on, it unscrews counterclockwise like normal.

Best way is to use an air or electric impact wrench and an IMPACT rated socket and eye protection.

Remove the bolt and the pulley-PTO should slide off. There will be a key in the key way and you might need a little encouragement from a soft blow hammer.
If there's an electric PTO clutch is will be HEAVY so be prepared.
rcmoser
14 years ago
IMO the last bolt should of been first (pulley bolt weather clutch or double pulley. Your going to have to hold the crank (if this is the bolt your talking about) and use breaker bar or something thats got leverage to initial break it loose. YOu can hold the crank by clamping vise grips or lock the flywheel with something. If it's one of the three or four engine mount bolts to the frame you will have get more leverage or cut or drill it off if it rounded off.
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walt2002
14 years ago
" Your going to have to hold the crank (if this is the bolt your talking about) and use breaker bar or something thats got leverage to initial break it loose. YOu can hold the crank by clamping vise grips or lock the flywheel with something."

OR by removing the spark plug and inserting a ft. or so of 1/4" nylon rope leaving enough out to retrieve of course. You don't say WHAT engine, IF it is an OHV engine, be sure the valves are closed.

Walt Conner
User
14 years ago
It's too late for the OP to remove the crank bolt first.

If one uses an electric or air impact one doesn't need to hold the crankshaft.

The right tool for the job eliminates stuffing the combustion chamber with rope and/or vise grips.
llamagarden
Original Author
14 years ago
Oh no! I removed the bolts I could see that were holding the engine down from above--couldn't see the crank shaft bolt and so that got left out. . . .

The engine is B&S 191707-5852-01. Electric start.

Thanks everyone for the advice. It's my understanding that it's not too late. Really need to get hold of an impact wrench (I'll see if any neighbors have one). Since the engine is very, very likely toast anyway, I guess I don't have to worry so much about bracing the (frozen) flywheel. Does this sound reasonable?

(I'm a nurse on a subsistence farm with some wrenches and no way to just load up the whole mower to transport it to be worked on by the folks who know what they're doing. In the past, it's been transported to a different outfit for work several times--weeks and much money later, they never actually fixed the problem. I did a little research and was finally able to fix that problem myself. That's how I came to be trying to remove the engine myself. . . . So, thank you all for your patience!!)
User
14 years ago
If you get a hold of an impact wrench it doesn't matter if the engine is bolted down or not.

If you can't buy one tool rental places usually have the electric ones for rent.
llamagarden
Original Author
14 years ago
Hey guys (pant, pant), overnight WD40-soaked rag and no longer trying to brace the flywheel, the bolt is out!!!!!

Much prying, etc., and the PTO is down and the engine is free. Also, the crankshaft now can turn, with the same ominous rattle I heard initially.

And filthy! (I have oak trees and lots of mice that like to store nuts everywhere, including in the mower.)

Engine sort of cleaned up (so not too embarrassing) and we're off to the repair guys.

Thank you for holding my hand through this. (But, likely not the last you'll hear from me!)
hawkeyechuck
14 years ago
If you need to figure out waht parts you need, the digram link is below.

It looks like there is a direct engine replacement - a 217907-3025.

Note:
f the replacement engine supersedes to or is a Model 210000 series engine, refer to the illustrations located after the conversion data for this model series. The overall dimensions which differ, are shown in the illustrations. If after making a visual inspection and it is determined the Model 210000 series engine cannot be used because of equipment interference, the original engine should be repaired with a short block and/or individual parts.

Here is a link that might be useful: Engine diagram - 191707-5852-01