Buy a Deere from an authorized JD dealer not HD or Lowes. It'll be the same price as the big box store.

You'll get a better warranty, a parts department, and trained techs that you won't get with anything else you could buy at that price.

JD dealers offer the JD promise which is a 30 day no questions asked FULL REFUND if you're not satisfied.

Right now JD has a promotion on the 100 series LTs... No-Interest if Paid in Full within 12 Months on New 100 Series Lawn Tractors

Pretty much all tractors under $2k all have the same weak link - the transmission. Hydrostatic transmissions at that price point can't handle much more than standard mowing and VERY light towing on relatively flat lawns. If you plan to tow heavier loads (e.g. - carts over 100lbs), mow decent slopes or any kind of ground-engaging equipment, you will need to double your budget for a durable setup.

Manual transmissions may be a different story; however, there just aren't enough out there with enough user reports to make any inferences.

That being said, you can base your choice (in your price range) on mfr. warranty, service and options/features that are important to you.

I still think a GOOD (not abused) used $1500 GT will outlast any new $1500 LT you can buy. See what your JD dealer has - maybe you can pick up a nice old 420 within your budget.

Thanks..the used stuff from dealer has not worked well in the past...

Other than the plug aerator with 3 8 x8 x 16 cinder blocks once a year...nothing is towed.

are Deer's more expensive to service...Needed or not I changed the oil, oil filter, plug, air filter and sharpened the blade every year. Changes the fule filter every few years...cleaned the deck each spring...

Entry level JD's are no more or less expensive to service than any other entry level LT. Pop the hood and you'll find the same band engine and trans you'll find in other LTs. IMO the components that JD outsources are a smidge better QC'ed than the competition.

Oil and air filter and plug changes will be similar to other brands. No more or less difficult.

What you will get from an entry level JD is a dealer who knows how to set up the tractor instead of a part-time kid doing it or it's not done at all. You'll have the opportunity to TEST DRIVE one before you buy. You can't do that at Sears or HD or Lowes.You'll get a parts department that has parts on the shelf on a Saturday afternoon if you need them. You'll get trained LT/GT techs who know the product and don't fix washing machines and refrigerators.

Try one... you might like it.

well, if the old toro fails me I will venture to the JD dealer. I wish toro still made these things...when I checked a few years back, my local dealer ( who I have bought many an item from) actually told me to get a craftsman as opposed to spending more for the current toro....ie a now rebadged craftsman.

Actually the current Toro riders are re-badged MTDs not Electrolux (AYP-Husqvarna-Sears).

Sears has changed from exclusively using Electrolux (AYP-Husqvarna) as an OEM and is also using MTD to manufacture some low priced models.

At the entry level price point they are all a step below JD in quality control and support.

You might want to shop now and sell the old Toro while it's running well and you can get something for it.

It's been 4 years since I researched the $1500 price range, but I doubt much has changed.
Supposedly MTD or AYP makes all of the lower priced tractors for JD, Cub, Sears, you name it.
I went and looked at all of them and I concluded that was evidently true as the setups, axles, frames appeared identical.
In that price range it is apparent that MTD and APY give the brands a Chinese menu of options, for example an 11 gauge or a 12 gauge frame, different sized decks. engine sizes/manufacturer etc.
The one constant is they will all have a light duty transaxle. Either the Tufftorq K46 or more commonly the HydroGear T10.
I chose the Craftsman YT4000 for it's 11 gauge frame, cast iron front axle, 46" deck which Consumer Reports gave the highest rating for quality of mulching/bagging and side discharge capability and cut and a B&S 24hp V-twin. (I had some regrets about the B&S as I was constantly needing to adjust the valves, but I wanted the extra hp vs a smaller Kohler plus there were other trade-offs with the tractors with a Kohler (Chinese menu thing).
Other than the engine valve issue, it was a great machine for the two years I had it. cut great and pulled the aerator fine (did aerate in sections and allowed the trany to cool down so as not to tax it), but it couldn't plw snow, so I replaced it. If you are a reasonably competent DIYer, I wouldn't worry about what brand. Do your research and get the most for your money. Good luck.

JD makes it's entry level LTs at a jointly owned/run factory in the SE USA. It has been a rumor for quite a while that MTD or AYP makes the entry level JDs and if I were a HD or Lowes or Sears salesperson that's what I'd say too.

AYP is no more... they have been Electrolux (Husqvarna) for a few years now.

If you need a warranty repair from Sears you could wait a month until the tech arrives and then another month while you wait for parts.

With real estate is location, location, location. With L&G products it's DEALER, DEALER, DEALER.

After much research:
In the interest of accuracy, Electrolux acquired Husqvarna in 1978 and AYP in 1988 and spun them off (along with all their outdoor equipment) in 2006 under the name Husqvarna AB.
As of 2012, AYP is still listed as a Cleveland, Oh. company. A separate division maybe?
JD does make the 100 series (only model in the $1500 price range) in Greenville, Tenn. Apparently, the X series and 4wheelers are made in Wisconsin.
Unless things have changed in the past 4 years, I doubt that the JD 100 is built any better than any other brand (my opinion based on visual inspections)--same style welded frame, same sources of engine manufacturer, same sources for transaxles and same crappy plastic hood. I still think you compare front axle material, steel gauges used for frame and deck, engine specs ( number of cylinders/quality grade) and cut quality and base your purchase on bang for the buck. It's nice to have dealer backing, but after the warranty period (2 years?), As a reasonably handy DIYer, I'd rather have the features I had to give up for the 10 yr lifespan of the mower just to get the name and dealer backing for that 2 yr warranty period.

There's a lot more to compare than meets your eyes...

For one, JD specs engines with both the pleated air filter and foam pre-filter where the majority of Sears low price LTs and some GTs do not and I have seen that with my own eyes.

For another, on many models Sears cheaps down their engine choices with starters that do not use a Bendix instead of the more expensive and more reliable starter versions that do. On some engine choices the Sears versions do not have hydraulic lifters to cut the unit cost.

For another, even for the most ardent DIYer having a dealer around the corner who stocks parts is a big advantage over no dealer and waiting for parts or using a crossover part. And the prices for routine service parts at the Sears B&M are outrageous compared to the OEM prices of that same parts.

And another, sometimes you're not just buying the dealer but factory support. JD has a reputation for continuing to make parts available for models for decades after the competition has stopped and that's a BIG advantage for long after the two year warranty is up.

Instead of posting "Unless things have changed in the past 4 years" you ought to take a look today and KNOW. I have and I can tell you that the lowest price Sears (regardless of origin) and the Ariens don't come close to the JD D1xx.

does jd still use bushings instead of bearings in their 100 series front wheels?

At the entry level it seems all the manufacturers are guilty of using bushings. Whether the JD bushings are plastic or bronze I don't know.

Have to agree with JL , with a price line of around 1500.00 a used JD from a recognized dealer would be the way to go . As for front wheel bgr design nothing wrong with either plastic or brass bushings for the intended use of these entry level units . Unless a 500 gorrilla or bucket accessory is used I doubt the loading would preclude the bushing style bearings as a reliable unit considering the low speed usage that these lawn tractors are designed for.

Whoa.
Let's keep it to comparing apples to apples. A $1000 Sears LT1000 is not going to favorably compare to a $1500 JD 105.
We are talking about a $1500. range tractor. I'm no proponent of any brand. The YT4000 Craftsman I bought 4 years ago was a $1500 tractor. I doubt it's still that price, but it had a Plat. engine and the Plat had a two stage paper filter and foam pre-filter, plated bearings etc. I'm sure you can still get a comparable quality engine in a $1500 Sears tractor.
I have nothing against JD, in fact I think their X500 and 700 series are best buys for their niches.
As for parts, I bought/buy all of my maintenance filters, plugs etc from a local JD dealer.
I only propose that the OP look at all the brands and their specs (engine grade/# of cylinders/hp, wheel bearings, deck, frame, tranny) and get the most for their money.
I bought the Craftsman because at the time it was the best machine for the money and no JD dealer (no matter how good) was going to make a $1500 17.5hp JD105 haul my 200+#s up a 7degree incline while doing a decent job of mulching with a 46" deck. That still hasn't changed.
And if you are implying that a $1500 JD mower is going to last decades and decades, you are ill-advised.

One more evaluation to consider is Consumer Reports latest test results, they actually go out and cut grass and rate them on performance and value. The latest issue rated the lawn tractors under $2000 in order as follows:

5) John Deere D110, (D120, D130) $1700.00 (CR Best Buy)
6) Cub Cadet LTX1045 $1700.00
7) Husqvarna YTH21K46 $1600.00 (CR Best Buy)
8) Cub Cadet LTX1040 $1500.00

10. Craftsman 28856 $1600.00 (CR Best Buy)
11. Craftsman 28885 $1300.00 (CR Best Buy)

The Cub Cadets continue to suffer from reliability issues.

"At the entry level it seems all the manufacturers are guilty of using bushings. Whether the JD bushings are plastic or bronze I don't know."

best take another look at the cub cadets.... bearings in the front - and bolted-on rims at the rear.

and ewalk... try runnin 'em w/o greasing - those bushings do wear out quick. :)

grass1950,

The OP set the price range at $1500 not me. The OP declined a used buy based on their experience.

What you bought 4 years ago is hardly indicative of what is for sale today. Since you seem stuck at 4 years ago it is you that is ill advised.

rcbe,

Having watched a neighbor with a new CC bought at TSC fight for warranty support from the factory and get none he finally sued to get a complete refund (and did) so whether a CC has wheel bearings or bushings was a moot point to him.

Maybe the CC are better where you live but around here the entry level ones are mowing meteors... better admired from a distance and die a spectacular death.

Ok number of cylinders, deck guage, tranny type, axle type....I did not worry about this on the toro...good or bad...I have no idea what to look for. Which is the best set up...JD, Ariens, Cubbby or whatever that funny looking one is at Lowes...Husky maybe...

JL,
We get it, You're a true green JD guy.
I am a proponent of common sense. It works today, four years ago, a thousand years ago and it'll work a thousand years from now, even if it is in short supply.
Yes the OP has set a price range of $1500--that's the point. What don't you get about that?
The ONLY mower JD offers at that price is the JD 105. There are a plethora of other brand tractors at that price. The OP should do his research and make his best informed choice.
If not, his choice will be JD (Just Dumb).

The Raven?
Interesting concept. It's a riding "hybrid" mower and a portable home generator, but its outa your price range at $2999. Even if it wasn't I would shy away from anything in its first year.
Go to a JD dealer and get the spec sheet for the JD 105. Ask the dealer what the gauge of the frame and deck is. Ask if the front axle is cast steel (g00d) or not. Ask what the hp of the engine is and ask what makes their engine better than the competing brands (dual element filters, coated bearings, hydrolic lifters). Ask the dealer what else makes the JD 105 a well made mower (wheel bearings, etc) Write it down then go to Sears and HD and lowes and look at some other brands in the $1500 dollar range and see how they match up. If you find one that not only matches the JD but exceeds it, buy it. If you don't, and no one can substantially sell you a JD for less, buy the JD at the dealer.

Actually grass a Toro guy but the older xi series. I have a JD because it was the best value for what I needed. Even though my local dealer is a jerk he has the parts I want on Saturday afternoon. It'd be great if there were a CC and a Simplicity dealer around but they seem to be concentrated in certain areas and have ceded the GT market to JD.

Common sense works great and it is timeless as long as you're comparing apples to apples in real time... not what the apples were like 4 years ago. You'd be amazed how much the quality of what's being sold can deteriorate in 4 years to keep competitive at a certain price point. Less features, lower quality, and less QC is how manufacturers keep competitive at the entry level price point.

Anyone with common sense that goes shopping today looks at what is being offered TODAY not what was offered 4 years ago or even last year.

"Go to a JD dealer and get the spec sheet for the JD 105. Ask the dealer what the gauge of the frame and deck is. Ask if the front axle is cast steel (g00d) or not. Ask what the hp of the engine is and ask what makes their engine better than the competing brands (dual element filters, coated bearings, hydrolic lifters). Ask the dealer what else makes the JD 105 a well made mower (wheel bearings, etc) Write it down then go to Sears and HD and lowes and look at some other brands in the $1500 dollar range and see how they match up. If you find one that not only matches the JD but exceeds it, buy it. If you don't, and no one can substantially sell you a JD for less, buy the JD at the dealer"

When you're at Sears and HD and Lowes ask them who setup and prepped their rider. Ask them who does the warranty work? Ask them who stocks the parts? Ask them if you can test drive the LT BEFORE you buy it?

JL,
What I did four years ago was given as an example of process, not an endorsement of any brand.

andre,
If you are uncomfortable with comparison shopping for a mower, you could come back and post what you found out and get input on specifics.

"When you're at Sears and HD and Lowes ask them who setup and prepped their rider. Ask them who does the warranty work? Ask them who stocks the parts? Ask them if you can test drive the LT BEFORE you buy it?"

And ask if he's a jerk and if the mower comes with a crappy hood that will drive you crazy with its bouncing and cracking. Better yet, ask all of the brand sellers if you can take it home and see how it cuts your grass for a couple of weeks, if not, test driving isn't going to make a difference. LOL

grass,

Own any late model JDs? I'm sure not but you're another guy who hasn't had first hand experience with the product he rags but READS and REPEATS what he's heard second, third, or fourth hand.

No one is more of a jerk than a big box store that shuffles you past the check out and provides no service, no parts, and no competent instruction of any kind especially when they are selling you something that can kill you like a riding mower or a circular saw. You may not need instruction or support but many do.

My dealer is a jerk but millions of JD owners seem to have dealers who aren't cause if they all were jerks JD wouldn't have sold 5 million LT/GTs.
I'd rather have a dealer that is a jerk who has trained staff, parts, and services what he/she sells.

My 3 year old JD hood is perfect. Doesn't rattle. Doesn't shake. Doesn't bounce. Doesn't crack.

The JD dealer will often bring a rider to your home and let you see how it cuts your grass or... you can buy the JD you like and try it. If you don't want it for any or no reason you can return it for a FULL REFUND within 30 days.

That is JD corporate policy... it's called the JD Promise.

Andre,
As your only requirements are that it cost no more than $1500, cut grass on flat level ground, that it have no larger than a 42" deck and that it pull an aerator of about 150#. A JD 105 meets all those requirements. It's very possible that you will pay more than necessary or could get more bang for your buck, but the JD will meet your requirements.
Best to you.

JL, for a toro guy, you seem to have a lot of JD lipstick on your collar.
You'r right, I've never owned a JD and probably never will as they don't meet my need. I buy the best product at the time for my needs no matter what the brand. I like to get my money's worth (quality and performance) AND get the job done. I don't buy blindly on reputation and HOPE they honor their name. In the real world people are people whether they work for JD or the Pope. Who they work for ain't a guaranty of quality.

This post was edited by grass1950 on Fri, Apr 12, 13 at 23:12

I sold my Toro cause too many parts were becoming NLA and parts that were available were unbelievably expensive. It was a great GT but the market and the economy killed it.

My JD more than meets the jobs that the Toro was doing with no compromises and little down side from the rules and regs the Gov't had imposed in the 12 years between the Toro and the new JD. Better grass cut than the Toro, dirt work is as good, and snow blowing far easier with the JD.

The price was right in there with what CC and Simplicity offered and there were no dealers within a days drive. Parts and accessories are readily available.

The best aspect of my JD is that when I'm ready to move up to a sub-cut I can sell my JD GT quickly and for a good percentage of what I paid new instead of losing a ton cause JD resale is tops in the industry and that makes my JD an investment instead of being a disposable Sears... lipstick saves money in the long run.

Wow. Can we hit 50 replies by Saturday noon? :) I appreciate the crossroads that the OP is in. At that price point, I think the little Deere has the best value. A little grabby on the clutch, but very nice over all. The Husqvarna next. By me the Sears baseline riders are MTD built. JL's first post has some good points if that works out for you. I wonder if the change of address kits at the post office still have that Lowes 10% off coupon in them?

JL,
Get serious, a JD 105 is not going to have significantly better resale value than a comparable sears or cc etc.
Wasn't the Toro you had a wheel horse with FEL capabilities?
I think the lowest end comparable JD with FEL capabilities in the last 3 model years is the X700, or if you bought used, the 400 series. NEITHER is anywhere comparable to a 105.
Give Andre a break and talk turkey.

I want some popcorn!

post #32....

grass,

I was relaying MY direct experienced with JD after your lipstick remark.

The JD 3xx series (318,322, etc) which is even older could use an FEL . The Wheelhorse name was kinda pushed to the side by Toro when the xi series was released. Hell of a GT. Expensive and bulletproof but did not sell well.

I had already recommended that the OP take a look at the D105 at the dealer which would cost her NOTHING but time and she'd know more than she did before.

Regarding resale... I watch craigslist pretty often and around here a couple L series JDs sold a week or so ago for a touch under a grand while Sears entry level LTs at under $500 stay until the ad expires and then seem to get reposted.

This post was edited by justalurker on Sat, Apr 13, 13 at 1:35

Yep add a little butter on my Popcorn while your at it Mownie !

Rcbe: yeah a ounce of lubrication beats a pound of repair lol :)

Here ya go... BYOB(utter)

Thanks lurk! nom nom nom nom crunch crunch

Hey, that's for the matinee show...

Buuurrrpp!........
Sorry :^(

The worst thing I've seen at our local HD, is their display models are frequently used as a play ground. I've seen kids jumping from deck to deck and using the throttle and choke levers as "gear shifters" as they vroomed away with a lot of enthusiasm. That's another reason I would buy from a dealer.

"does jd still use bushings instead of bearings in their 100 series front wheels?"

Yes but you can fix that for about $30. I am doing this at this very moment. I could not get the bushings out of the left tire so a friend had to do it. I was able to 1 of the bushings out of the right tire, but so far no luck with the other one. This is the hardest part of the job. Oh and get 2 of those plastic caps..as the old ones shrink apparently.

To the org answerer:

Can you really get a used Garden tractor for $1500? I really dont need to pull much of anthing, but live on a hill. What is a good model in this price range?

If transmission ever goes in my 150, it costs about $1500 for the heavy duty transmission kit. And I got my JD cheap enough that it might be worth it. But if I can get something ready to go..I may go that route instead. Thanks.

Fletchb,
I saw a JD 420, in great condition, go for about $1500 here a few years ago. Granted, it was probably a 20-year-old tractor, but age doesn't mean a whole lot if it was a quality piece to begin with (those things were around $7-8k new, probably a $12k+ tractor nowadays). If you stay current with Craigslist, local ads, etc., sometimes you find someone who is moving, retiring, etc. and wants to unload a decent unit fast.

I suggest going to tractordata.com and doing some research, as well as visiting some of the other GT tractor forums on the web. It takes time to get a feel for the good tractors.

quote" Maybe the CC are better where you live but around here the entry level ones are mowing meteors... better admired from a distance and die a spectacular death" unquote...

H,mmm.... spoken like a true Antlerhead there, JAL.... unbiased thru green tinted glasses as can be, imho.
now if we REALLY want to get into jokes, let's debate RIO's... that's really a hoot in green/yellow land... wonder how many negative posts we've seen about that for - ummmm - how many years now ? The OP in this thread will certainl y love acclimatizing to that little feature, I'll wager...

rcbe,

Just tellin' it like it is around here... Cub are duds. Maybe it's because around here they're all sold by box stores. Maybe it's because they're junk.

So a hundred cry babies post on the net they can't mow while backing up unless they pull a switch. There are millions of people mowing while backing up riding many brands using every manner of backup safety device you can imagine and some you can't and they are not whining. Some times you can't teach old dogs new tricks and sometimes you can't teach old dogs any tricks at all. Did you stop buying cars because they put seat belts in them?

The RIO takes less than 30 seconds and a 10mm box wrench to defeat. If the person holding the wrench has a two digit IQ they should be able to figure out how. If they're not smart enough to figure out how to defeat the RIO then they are the ones who need the RIO and should use it or just shut up and only mow going forward.

Come up with something substantive to post and dazzle us with your knowledge and experience instead of calling people names because it just demeans you.

And please, try to suppress your antler envy.

This post was edited by justalurker on Tue, Apr 16, 13 at 0:23

{{gwi:315518}}

I knew I had an appropriate image somewhere.

roller boy, you best go worry about yer cracked battery - sorta out of yer league here.
AH, so yer green logic sez the very first thing the OP gets to do with her new buy is to grab for wrenches and start modifying, eh? well, I guess that's good green logic... just about like their practice of coming out with "kits' to cover up their design errors and of course we know who pays for the kits.
the only thing imho that Deere knows how to build well is expensive. One of these fine days when the public figgers out just how much of their tax money goes to the "poor" farmers who buy that expensive green and turn off the $$ spigot, then it will be interesting - sorta like a GM implosion, methinks. Can you handle that AH.. or is that too deep ?

Funny! Must have hit a nerve.