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scgreenthumb1987

Anyone know 5hp briggs well? problem

12 years ago

I was just given an old "mule". Single wheel drive walk behind plow basically. It's got a old, guessing 60s-70s model briggs and stratron 5hp on it. I can't get it to start for love nor money. I've rebuilt the carb, changed oil, and cleaned the gas tank. (Usual old motor protocol) I have compresaion, spark, and fuel. Won't even try to start. I've checked the magneto, plug, pulled the head, valves work as they should, cylinder is great, rings are good, head gasket replaced. I'm lost. Fuel,air, and fire but will not bust off. Even with starting fluid all I could achieve was blowing a fireball out the muffler. What's the problem?

Comments (5)

  • 12 years ago

    Most 5 horse Briggs of that era used the vacu-jet type carboreter mounted on the gas tank. If it has set for a number of years. the foot valve on the pick -up will get gummed up and almost impossible to free up. I assume you replaced the diaphram that serves as the fuel pump . That is the other part that gives trouble. Of course the main jet has to be properly adjusted. Another area to check since you get a fireball when using starting fluid is timing.

    This post was edited by farmerdill on Sun, May 11, 14 at 16:35

  • 12 years ago

    Ah....so I'm a car mechanic not small engine. How do I go about timing one?

  • 12 years ago

    OK, starting fluid containing ether is for big Diesel engines, not light weight air cooled engines.
    Lose the ether. Use spray carburetor cleaner instead.
    Timing on Briggs is achieved by having a good, non damaged key in the flywheel keyway where the flywheel mounts to the crankshaft.
    Another issue that might also be timing related on the old engine you have could be due to wear of the ignition points if nobody has converted the old points/magneto system that was the norm back them days. Most old Briggs can be converted to the modern Briggs Magnetron ignition system.
    If it is related to the points, you may be able to adjust that and improve timing to get it started. Is your arm sore yet? :^)
    Check your e-mail for something you might find helpful.
    But, you are still going to need a positive identification on the engine to shop for parts. Briggs stamped the engine model, type, and code numbers into a sheet metal panel making up the cooling shroud back then.

  • 12 years ago

    Thanks a million . It was the fly wheel key. Motors running great. Now the rim spins inside the tire tho :-/ lol. The dang thing is in surprisingly good condition. Even has the original rubber hand grips still intact and no dry rot. Only thing it's missing is the belt cover/guard. Which of course I can't find anywhere online. It has been converted to a magneto. Now if I can just figure out what the heck is wrong with my tiller motor I'll be in good shape. But that's a 5hp techsomthing power sport Japanese made pos. Must be a flaw in them. Carb leaks gas around the bowl. Even bought a brand new carb and same thing right out the box.

  • 12 years ago

    ***" It has been converted to a magneto"***
    ?? The defining difference between the 2 types ignition system I mentioned is that the older version (magneto with points) had a set of contact points IN CONJUNCTION with the magneto.
    The later version (without points) is called Magnetron, and does not have points.
    Both have magnetos to generate the spark.

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