Assuming a 12P is the same as a 12PT, then I would think that a 7.5hp engine is underpowered. I have the 12PT9 which means 9hp engine. It works well but it is on the edge and can get jammed up from an overload. I bring this up in case there are problems. You might want to find a bigger engine.

I had always heard that Robbins made very good engines. Japan makes very good engines too! I would guess that a carb rebuild kit might be needed but it might run right out of the garage but perhaps your hesitation is warranted. It shouldn't take long for a couple of the serious mechanics to chime in.

Your engine is a Subaru Robin, made by Fuji Heavy Industries. In the 1980's Fuji did not have a good North American distribution system and little in the way of parts support. Wisconsin, on the other hand, focused on heavy cast iron engines. They were looking for a lighter, smaller line to complement the heavy iron. Therefore, the Fuji line Wisconsin imported was renamed Wisconsin-Robin.

As you may be aware, Wisconsin has had financial problems, and Fuji was not happy with the performance of the small engine line in the Americas. When the distribution agreement came up for renewal, Fuji opted not to re-up, and now markets the engines as Subaru-Robin, as they do in the rest of the world.

The earlier Robin engines were a stout machine, but not particularly modern. They were one of the last engines to go to overhead valves (OHV) and overhead camshaft (OHC) technology. They were also one of the last to convert to electronic ignition, retaining points and condenser much longer than their peers.

If your engine is from the early 1990's, it probably is a flat head, although could be overhead valve. If flat head, it might also have breaker points rather than electronic ignition.

Suggest you go to the Robin-America website and look at manuals for the EY35 Flat Head or the EH34 OHV. In the manuals is a cross-reference page, crossing Subaru-Robin model numbers to Wisconsin-Roin models. For example the EY35 is a Wisconsin WI-340, and the EH34 crosses to a WOI-340.

Here is a link that might be useful: Robin America Manuals

BTW, MacKissic has a headquarters that will answer questions over the phone. I'm sure that they could tell you what you have if that is an issue.

Thanks for the information....Much appreciated.
Chas.....I currently have another Mackissic 12PT Machine with an 8 HP Briggs engine and it works well for me. My main use is shredding leaves and straw for compost/mulch....not much chipping. It would be nice to get a more powerful engine, but as long as I feed the chute at the proper rate, clogging is minimal. It also depends on which screen I have in. I believe the 12P is the same machine as the 12PT with a different handle. The 12P has a T handle to make it easier to pull around while my 12PT has a handle which allows the machine to be towed...otherwise they look identical. Thanks for your input and the MacKissic contact info.

gg....This machine is from the early 90's and is a Flat Head. Is that good or bad? The model I have is a W1-280 which cross references to an EY28. This certainly looks like a stout engine and is very clean. The chipper/shredder looks like it was very seldom used and well taken care of. Is there any harm in trying to start it up without doing any maintenance (just to see how/if it runs as is)? The oil is full and the air filter is clean. Do you think that my regular small engine mechanic would be able to service this machine or should I seek out a mechanic trained to service Robin engines?

Thanks again for all your input......I think I got pretty good deal at $150!!!!!

The EY28 is a good engine, as are all of the old Wisconsin and Subaru Robins. Being a flat head is OK, just somewhat less efficient than an OHV or OHC engine. Your EY28 produces 7.5hp from 280cc, the current EH25 OHV produces 8.5hp from 250cc. The OHV also uses about 20% less fuel. More importantly to Robin/Wisconsin, the old flat heads are not as clean emissions-wise, and can no longer be certified. That's why all of the engine makers have pretty much replaced flat heads with OHV construction, especially in California where CARB standards are even more stringent than EPA.

The type of ignition is more important to me. The EY28 came fitted with both electronic and the older breaker-point ignitions. The electronic is almost idiot proof, unless the coil fails. If the electronic fails, it easy but expensive to replace. Breaker points, however are a maintenance item. The need to be cleaned and re-gapped periodically, and are located under the flywheel, which makes it a bigger job. If engine is equipped with electronic (transistorized), forget everything I said.

Your regular small engine mechanic should be fine, provided he's competent. I'd pull down the manuals from Subaru (Parts, Service, and Operating) so he has something for reference. I'd also chase the internet to see who handles parts. While things are much better now that Subaru is directly involved, parts are still more expensive and harder to find than Briggs, Honda, or Kohler.

No harm trying to light it up, as long as oil is good. Carburetor may be gummed up from sitting, particularly if not stored properly. You may have to disassemble and boil everything out. Check for ignition, then squirt a little gas down the air horn and see if it lights. Then put some gas in tank, and see if it will run. If not, you or your mechanic will probably have to go through the carb.