All that and you still didn't tell us WHICH engine you installed?

I didn't get vthe fly cover with the old engine, so no numbers. The hose that ostensibly operated the fuel pump comes out of the top of the crank-case, near the flywheel. The bad engine is larger than the one i installed, and has an oil filter, which the better one doesn't have.
I installed a 14.5 hp Briggs engine, ohv., Model: 287707,Type: 0224-01, Code: 8703277B
So, now that you know this, what can i do to fix the problem?
The newer engine doesn't have an oil filter. I tried to be careful about getting the hoses on the correct tubes. And, there is fuel coming out of the tank into the fuel hose.

I was thinking that depending on the engine model, that there may have been a version that had the fuel pump built into the carb.
It doesn't appear to be the case for that model.

Have you tries sucking gas through the pump to "prime" it?
That might be worth a shot?

Rusty,

I agree with Bill, are you sure it is primed?

Do you have a fuel pump tester - I would check to see if you are getting pulsing vacuum at the new hose.

If you don't have a tester run the engine and listen to the end of that hose - you should get a pulsing hush-wush-hush-wush sound.

If you don't the engine could have a clogged breather reed valve or may just may not have good enough compression for a vacuum pump.

Best of luck friend.

Thanks, guys! Tomorrow, i go get a small basting sucker, and do some other tests. Hopefully i will over come the problem! I still have a nice fuel tank that can be mounted above the engine. (The faint-hearted way out, ya might say!) Rusty

Are you guys sure that the hose from the engine to the fuel pump does not work on pulsed compression rather than vacuum? I think some did.

"Are you guys sure that the hose from the engine to the fuel pump does not work on pulsed compression rather than vacuum? I think some did."

These worked on vacuum, some of this series engines were equipped with the type fuel pump you have. Some at least connected to the crankcase breather ass'y. Never really paid enough attention to them to remember just how.

Check any 28 or 31 series engine at a large new equipment dealer.

Walt Conner

Just did one of these on a Cub Cadet with a blown Kohler and mechanical pump. I installed an 18hp Intek AVS, Mikuni vacuum pump with source from the dipstick tube. I cut off a hose nipple from a broken pump, drilled a 1/8" hole in the dipstick tube, and used plastic epoxy to bond it in place. Works perfectly, the rest of the engine was plug and play, just an exhaust tube change since the Briggs is different and MTD uses a slip joint muffler can.

Or you can go gravity feed. It's not like me to throw things away, so I always have fuel tanks and battery trays for swaps like this. You'll need to make up a long positive cable to the solenoid if you go this route.

I THINK part number 696126 is the crankcase breather cover you need with a suction port for vacuum fuel pump.

You could drill one yourself but it has to go completely thru the breather box and should seal on both the inside and outside. Not sure how you would do that as heat from brazing would damage filter material inside as well as the fiber disc.

Walt Conner

Walt & bushleagued: It sounds like this in reality is a pulsed compression input to the fuel pump. How could one have enough vacuum to operate it with no seal around the dipstick and a breather on the crankcase? Of course this is true if one relies on pulsed pressure too. When the piston comes down it appears there will be compression created in the crankcase, thus the need for a breather. However, not sure about this. But how could one run with blowby out the breather (and thus no vacuum), and they do.

"But how could one run with blowby out the breather (and thus no vacuum), and they do."

Apparently you are not familiar with the operation of the crankcase breather. It blows out freely but fiber flapper valve closes on vacuum creating a low vacuum which pulls oil back into the crankcase under normal operation and operating vacuum fuel pump, if so equipped.

Walt Conner

I know that at least some of the engines (twin cly Intek comes to mind, single cyl too I think) had a tube connected to the valve cover. It sould be pretty easy to drill a hole in the valve cover and solder or braze on a tube for the pulse connection. In fact there's probably a valve cover available from briggs with this tube on it.

I have already posted about both of these things.

Walt Conner

Well, i had made up a breather box with another tube inserted into it, and ran a hose to the pump--didn't work. So, i put the original back on. Then i drilled the dipstick tube, and inserted a nipple. Ran hose to pump--nothing. Tried various configurations of hook ups--nothing! Ran gasoline all over the floor--nothing, not even a fire on floor. So, i rigged up an auxiliary tank on top of the fly cover, plumbed it in to the carb, and gravity did the rest. The engine started and ran until i shut it off. But then, the tractor didn't move. Upon inspection, i found the main drive belt hadn't made it onto the top pulley, so i had to put that on, and then my wife called me for dinner, and i quit for the day!
A fellow tractor fixer is going to check the pump for me tomorrow, so i might get it right yet!
Thanks for all the helpful info!
Rustyj

Well, folks, i finally got it right!
The hoses were connected wrongly, so with much experimentation, i figured out how they were attached to what nipple. I installed a nipple in the crank-case breather box, hooked on the hose, and it starts and runs and drives!
Thanks for all the help!
Rusty Jones

Glad you got it figured out Rusty! :)