Gee,

Q: What do I do if my valve doesn't change or cycle to the next zone or outlet?

A: This happens when the stem and disk assembly is not rotating when the water flow is turned OFF and then back ON.

Suggested solutions:

1.) Make sure there is no debris inside the cam. Clean and carefully reinstall the cam.

2.) If fewer than the maximum number of outlets are being used, check the installation of the cam. Ensure that the stem and disk assembly is not being held down by an improperly installed cam.

3.) Remove the valve top and check for proper movement of the stem and disk assembly. Check for and remove any debris or foreign objects that may jam or retard the movement of the disk.

4.) Check for freedom of movement of stem and disk assembly up and down over the center pin in bottom of valve. Scale deposits may build up on the pin and hold stem and disk assembly down. Clean pin and again check for freedom of movement.

5.) Be sure that all operating outlets are not capped and that the flow to operating zones is not restricted in any manner.
This would cause pressure to build up in the valve and lock the stem and disk assembly in the down position.

6.) The backflow of water from uphill lines may be preventing the valve from cycling properly. This can happen when the valve is placed too far below an elevated irrigation line. If the valve cannot be placed close to the high point of the system, a check valve should be installed near the valve in the outlet line that runs uphill from the valve.
# 4 seems the most likely problem after 20 years. If it can't be fixed. Probably time to replace it with a new one. Aloha

What if two zones come on at the Same time. I cleaned the unit an replaced the stem a while back. Is too much water pressure an issue

could be. Or not enough pressure. What does the manual say? Check your pressure with a faucet water gauge ($10 at Hardware Store). Let us know what it is. Also check your flow rate by timing to fill a 5-gal bucket. Aloha

well, i hired a company that tried just about everything, to no avail. I hired a second fella and he turned the sprinklers on, and of course, it didn't change zones. So immediately afterwards, he took the top off of the Fimco and it was still full of water. He immediately said, there's your problem. Know that this was a brand new Fimco, and because I thought it could be the stem from reading a bajillion other suggestions, another new Fimco was put on and it still worked exactly the same - no zone changing. Anyway, the new guy immediately said, well here's your problem. It took him 10 minutes to evaluate. Here's the specifics - I hadhave a 4 zone Fimco and I was using 2 (one for the front yard; one for the back); the remaining 2 were capped off. All he did was remove the caps on the 2 unused zones on the octopus. Turned it on, and whalla! Has worked perfectly ever since (been about 6 months now and still good). Apparently, the inside will suction down keeping it from leaking while in use; but once off (as it does for a few minutes between changing zones), it has an opportunity for the seal/suction to stop (but it doesn't because the water is still inside holding the suction down). When the water drains, this allows the suction to let go inside and it can then move to the next zone. I couldn't believe that quick alteration fixed my problem, being that the first "Einstein" said I had to chane the foot valve; the check valve, put in new piping (as long as I had to dig out for the foot valve); had electrical/current check; had the pump taken apart and entirely cleaned ($100 for the pump cleaning in and of itself) - and I had all these things done from reading all the experts online saying, "I guarantee you, it's the stem; I guarantee you it's the valve; I guarantee you that your pump needs cleaning has debris in it, etc. etc.") I would suggest, first go to the Fimco (or whatever brand you're using) and after it stops sprinkling and didn't change zones, remove the top and if it's still full of water, take the caps off the octopus for the unused zones. The water has to drain out somewhere in order for the suction inside the Fimco to break loose and allow it to move to the next zone. If you take the top off after sprinkling and it didn't change zones, and you find there isn't any water in there, then this obviously isn't your problem. But if it is full of water, you just may find that removing the caps from the unused zones on the octopus is all you need to do. Of course, I found out after having spent more than $500 with the first sprinkler company that obviously needs to go back to school, and he still had no idea when he walked away (I replaced him.) Thank God the second fella knew what he was doing.

Hi, I have a similar problem. I also bought a new 4 zones fimco indexing valves trying to fix the problem. Could you please tell me which caps he removed from the Octopus. Am not sure what that is. Only one zone works for me. If possible please send pictures.

I had the same problem--stuck on one of two zones and the other two pvc pipes were capped. So, after trying everything else, I did the same as Cheryl Massey had done--I cut off the cap on one of the two capped pvc pipes and now the zones cycle as they should. It is interesting that my system in new and the installer capped off two of the pvc pipes but on the old system only one was capped and one was open.

I have four zones I capped one zone two zones work and one don't what is the problem.

For FIMCO indexing valves:

Firstly, they have to be cammed properly. That means you have a three-zone cam installed if you're using three zones, four-zone cam for four zones, etc.. Also make sure the numbers on the cam line up with the active outlets on the valve bottom.

If this doesn't make sense or you have ANY other issue with the FIMCO indexing valves call the manufacturer (myself). Most of these issues are fairly simple to resolve.

I have had my 1120 for several years. It just stopped changing zones, only one zone all the time. I am not good at this but , what do I do ? Is it in the setting A M or P M ? I know how to set the time wheel but what are all the pins on the bottom loaded with little pins.

This is a little confusing. If this is pertaining to the indexing valve then the timer has very little to do with it not changing zones. Each time the system is shut down it should advance to the next zone. If this was a timer issue it would most likely either not turn on or not shut off. Regarding the pins on the timer... most timers I am familiar with have a large 24-hour wheel that has either 12 or 15-minute pins and then they have a smaller wheel for which days to run the system.