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curtisbergeron

Lawn Irrigation System ?

21 years ago

Well, I was all set to get ready to install an irrigation system up til yesterday. I have a so called 20GPM well and I had figured that I could pretty easily run an irrigation system. Well, after testing my well yesterday, I can get 12GPM at 47PSI continuously. Now, I don't believe that is sufficient.

The problem I have is that I have about 32K sq. ft. of grass area and alot of bed area. I know the bed area is not a problem. Although, my backyard has my septic and I believe that I need rotors to shoot across the septic as I don't think it is acceptable to place sprinklers in the septic.

I calculated all the pressure loss values and it looks to me like I will only have about 25PSI available at the sprinklers. This is not enough to run rotors from what I understand.

Here is what I was calculating:

11PSI loss - Febco Reduced Pressure Backflow

2.5PSI loss - elevation changes

.40PSI loss - mainlines (upsized to 1.5" poly x 100')

25PSI loss - sprinklers (Sprays, need min. 30PSI for rotors)

5PSI loss - laterals

2PSI loss - Hunter HPV valves

45.9PSI loss - Total

Would anybody bother to install a sprinkler system with these type of parameters? Anybody got any ideas what I can do to solve the problem? The biggest problem is the backflow, it eats up a ton of PSI.

Thanks.

Curtis

Comments (7)

  • 21 years ago

    One thing I forgot to mention, I tapped into the well just inside the house. The line from the well comes in to the basement and T's to feed the pressure tank and house. I tapped the line, which is 1" copper, just after the T on the house side.

    I then came over with 1" copper, elbowed, 8" piece of pipe, pressure gauge, 8" piece of pipe and ball valve. I did this for testing according to the irrigationtutorials.com website.

    The line from my well runs about 100' and is 1" poly.

  • 21 years ago

    Ok, one more tidbit of information. I just got a huge case of sticker shock. I called my well driller. I guess my well is a 20GPM well but they only put a 10GPM system in. Thus I only have a 1/2HP pump. They want $2100 to upgrade to a 1.5HP system which will deliver 19GPM.

    That is quite pricy. But, I guess that would allow me to probably get something like 17GPM at 55PSI.

    Hmmmm

    Curtis

  • 21 years ago

    You could eliminate the backflow by using anti syphon valves. Since you are on your own water system, I believe that you are not required to have one by code. You could get away with a double check and be 99% safe. I mean when you think about it, your water is coming from the ground anyway. It is prone to contaminants from runoff in the first place.

    You have a pretty decent supply. For what you are going to invest, go to Home Depot and get a TORO Pressure and Flow guage. I think they are $60. This can help pinpoint your options with different pressures etc. You are on the right track, and I bet you can figure something out.

    Did you ask about a trade in of your existing parts? If your system is not too old their is some residual value. There is an obscene amount of markup in the well pump and motor industry, NEGOTIATE.

  • 21 years ago

    Hi MrPike,

    Thanks for the reply. I believe that the village does require a backflow device per code so I don't believe that I can do away with it. Actually, I just looked and they require a reduced pressure backflow device according to Illinois plumbing code. So, I guess I am SOL there.

    I did not ask about a trade in on the parts. I would think there is some value as the system is only about 8mos. old. I am going to be talking to the guy tomorrow about this issue at the well driller to see what the total will be and if they can do any better.

    Thanks.
    Curtis

  • 21 years ago

    This is the third post I have seen that describes these very low gpm pumps. Am I missing something? Is the aquifer that weak in all Northern areas or do they refuse to install some decent pumps. I can only assume that these are submersible pumps in 4" casings. If that is the case why not change the pump out yourself. If you have 10 gpm then why not increase the pressure until you are comfortable with it and run only 3 at a time "3 gpm rotors". If it is submersible then increase the PSI to 60/40. Install a larger backflow "less restriction". Imo you have options.

  • 21 years ago

    No, the aquifier is not that weak. It is the fact that they just do not install a big pump as part of a standard package from what I am finding out. My well will actually produce 20gpm no problem. It is a standard submersible pump in a 4" casing. The pump is already set with 40/60PSI cutoffs, however, the best combination of pressure/gpm is at the 47psi/10GPM which keeps the pump running. If I try to get 55psi out of the system I think I will only be getting about 6GPM out of it and when watering 1acre of grass I think it is unreasonable to try and water it with that flow rate. I would rather design the system for the correct flow than to have to redo it at a later point.

    On a happy note: I called my well guy and spoke to one of the owners yesterday. He said they can install a 1.5hp pump and new well tank for about $1200. That is giving my some credit for my existing system. I could also get what he called a constant velocity system. I guess it maintains a constant 70PSI and will pump an easy 20GPM but they want $1700 to install that system.

  • 21 years ago

    Regarding the constant velocity I have never heard of it, But I am aware of a product used here in FL called a Cycle Stop Valve http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/ and this thing rocks essentially you can set it to flow 2 gpm a minute min and it will hold your pump at whatever psi you set it at ex 2gpm 70psi, 6 gpm 70 psi, 10 gpm 70 psi. As long as water flows your pump will not cycle until you shut off the water. Something to think about.

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