Hi Kpahr,

Getting professional help is the way to go. Hiring an irrigation consultant is the best route versus a design-build venue. Then obtain bids from three contractors from the plans generated by the consultant. This will get you feeling comfortable about what to do and how much it will cost. You also can have the consultant manage the contractor. There too many questions to ask you on this format especially a large project that will share a house well. You might think of digging a well just for the garden areas. Of course drip is the most efficient system for irrigation. JMHO. Otherwise ask specific questions that can be answered decisively. GL. Aloha.

kpahr, the answers to your questions are "yes" and "yes".
When you use a hose to water a garden of any size, you are delivering a quantity of water (gallons) over an area (sq.ft.). With drip irrigation, you are delivering a 'precise' quantity (one gallon an hour, for example) to a 'precise' area (the root zone). There is a great reduction in the quantity of water used and energy (cost) is reduced if a pump is used.
Alas, there is no free lunch. You have some work ahead.
My best suggestion would be to obtain a free brochure from your neighborhood hardware store and follow the steps for design and installation of a drip irrigation system. You will most likely need at least, a ruler, and a compass for drawing circles and part circles (and sunflowers when the going gets tough). Measure on the ground, transfer to paper and compile the list of hoses and fittings. The starter kit is a very worthwhile investment and it is easy to add to the system as time goes on. You will learn some new things; like the names of fittings, basic hydrology and soon the whole neighborhood will be asking your advice on irrigation.
Above all, know that you are always welcome here. In the words of my grandfather "Knowledge defies mathematics! The more it is divided, the more it is multiplied."

Hi Kpahr,

If you are a D0-It-Yourselfer or want to be, this forum is willing to help. I agree whole heartedly with Ronalawn82 philosophy. I hope my last post was not construed in other than that light. My last post is the easiest, least stressful way to go, but it is the most expensive. If you watch what they do you will learn alot and get a good basis on being able to maintain and operate your system.

Four beds of 30 ft wide by 100 foot long is a large undertaking. Putting 1" of water on per week requires a flow of 1,870 gallons/week/bed. If watering 3 times a week that is 470 gal per application/bed. Then you design your drip delivery system to accomplish that amount with the flow rate of your drip tape or emitters for the pressure of your system. A 30 x 100 bed will need approx. 675 emitters spaced at 2 feet x 2 feet. You can purchase a pressure gauge from the hardware store at $15 to test your systems pressure. The pressure of your system will be crucial to your system design. The main line delivery system will need a vacuum breaker shut-off valve combo, a pressure regulator, backflow preventer, maybe a filter and controller and of course 1" or larger PVC mainline pipe. If you have specific questions as you design your system or questions how you do some things feel free to ask. There I think I said it better this time. GL Aloha.

Thank you for the information! Lehua13, I am a Do-it-myselfer. I'm by far too stubborn to let someone else do it for me.

Plus, we're working with very limited capital. A little perspective: Our garden is being set up with intention of becoming a non-profit organization to provide our local foodbanks with produce free of charge. We are using our own money, not donations or loans or grants, to get everything up and running. I have roughly $1500 budgeted in for the irrigation system. From the prices I've seen on kits, that seems like a reasonable, maybe high, amount.

My husband works in the fire protection industry and spent years designing high-pressure fire sprinkler systems, so I'm already familiar with most of the components that will be required for this system, and he can do all the hydraulic calcs.

Ronalawn82, we've already done an AutoCad drawing of the area in question, now it's just a matter of adding it all up and figuring out where to start. Our largest bed is oddly shaped, looking something like Arkansas, with a 10' gap down the middle to accommodate our septic line.

I appreciate y'all's advice very much. Expect to see much more of me around here as I progress!

Hi Kaphr,

Glad we can help. Here is another suggestion to decrease your costs. If you have some slope to your garden plots or can produce slope and your soil is not too sandy. Furrow irrigation is a cheaper alternative., but not as efficient in using water. If you create small berms with accompanying small furrows or little ditches, you can flood irrigate along the furrows. Slope the furrow no more than 1.5% slope(1.5 ft per 100 ft) and not less than 1% slope. This slope moves water across soil without scouring it out and exposing the seed. Set up your mainline and zones with PVC pipe and outlets into you furrows. Some seeds could be planted in the mound and some in the furrows or along the edge. This is the way our great-grandfathers irrigated their plants. The amount of water will be more for this type of irrigation but the system is less costly. If you need more precise watering, drip can be added later. Just a thought. Aloha

contact berry hill irrigation and they will send you a catalog. it has everything you will need to do it yourself.i have my flower beds and my veg. garden on different timers and works great.the system is easy to install and change things around anytime you like.