Hi Eacollie,

I have never winterized an irrigation system so I think I can expound on this subject.
1. Hiring someone to winterize your system would keep the liability with them unless they do the work and provide you a disclaimer. Oh well.
2. Do you know exactly what winterizing entails? for example removing all the water in the system and disconnecting from supply source.
3. Do you know how or have a way to inject air to empty the entire system.
4. Are you willing to do some minor repairs if you get it wrong?

Let us know what you expect to do and we can let you know what would be easy to do yourself.

Aloha

Thanks lehua13.

I've only had my system for a year or so and last year the installation company did the winterizing. I'm assuming they would cover any damage if they did it again.

I really don't have a good idea on how this is done and am looking for some help. I am prepared to purchase an air compressor. I had an irrigation system in my last house for many years, but it was in California and there was no need to winterize. I have changed sprinkler heads and mended PVP pipes/connections.

Any help you can throw my way would be very appreciated!
Thanks

it has been a while since i have blown out a system.. at least a year, so i am just gonna try to say what i think i remember doing...

if your system is equipped with backflow prevention (we always install watts double check, 1") IIRc you can unscrew on of the test cocks and thread a male air hose fitting in its place. Close the city side of the backflow before you do anything, or else you might get wet.

Then, simply put your timer into test mode, or a custom program (we would normally do just a 2min test mode per zone) crank up your air compressor, attach the female end onto the male end, and start the test mode.. you should see the heads pop up a little zone by zone.

or if you don't have a backflow, you would just have to cut in a 1" or 3/4" (or whatever size your main line is) by, i think, 1/4" tee. Don't quote me on it. Go buy the male air peice first, and take it to the hardware store with you to double check...

it's pretty straight forward. And shouldn't damage anything. I can't think of anything air can do, that water can't

I've have about 8 years experience in the industry and should be able to add to that.

Have a look in your main valve shutoff box (could also have been connected in your home) and look for a hose tap that should be after your irrigation shutoff valve and backflow preventer (prevents water from running back into your potable water supply via back pressure or backsiphonage). It is better (allows for more airflow ensuring a clean blowout) and easier to hook up your air hose to. If there is no tap you may have a threaded nipple with a cap on it. Simply turn off the shuttoff valve and remove the cap and install the necessary adapter fittings to connect the air hose.(be careful removing the cap..the line is still pressurized when you turn your main valve off). If you observe neither the tap or threaded nipple is installed..then proceed to blow through the quarter inch test cocks on your backflow assembly(double check valve, pressure vacuum breaker or reduced pressure backflow assembly). When running the air compressor try to avoid using more then 80psi. I've seen many heads blow off launching up to 40 feet in the air...not safe and you'll being replacing heads year after year. Hope this additional info helps!

Thanks so much for all the help! I'll give this a try and let you know how it works out!

Thanks again.

i winterize my system every late-fall (buf. n.y.). i made up a adapter that fits the end of the feeder line and hook it up to a air compressor. i use about 25 psi.no more or you could blow off the sprayer heads or drippers.make sure you remove the end caps and remove most of the water first. i leave the caps slightly loose to make sure all the water is blown out. hope this helps.