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naomi_miller

Newbie questions......please help !!

16 years ago

I am so excited about this, I have read and read, planned and I have a few questions before I get my hands dirty ;>)

I hear so many talk about ProMix....it is not available near me....Sunshine Mix..that either....I do not want to pay $4 a bag for tiny bags of MG when I will need a truck load to do what I want.... any one out there in VA that knows of a good seed starter that is good size, will not break the bank and is available without driving around the state?(I am in the Richmond Area) I am willing to make my own but there are too many opinions out there about what to use, how much, additives? I just wish there was one good equation that would sprout the seeds, keep them healthy until they can get planted and was easy to acquire....

It is my understanding that the seedlings do not require any type of fertilizer or amendments until after their second set of true leaves appears....correct? So tell me, what if the time is not right for transplant or with all there is to do in the Spring, they have to sit a bit longer? Is there a good simple way to fertilize or amend their medium to give them what they need for a few extra weeks?

I will recap this for my own sanity and hope someone will go...'you got it' ,lol...

First I need the starter mix, wet thoroughly to the consistency of a brownie? Divide my recycled containers , mark the bottom with the contents using a paint pen? Seems the Sharpie thing does not get rave reviews, lol....add drainage holes to the bottom or sides close to the bottom.....add the wet starter mix.... sow seeds.... does the same rule of thumb apply that they should be sowed under a topping equal to about three times their size?..... replace the top and seal .... place outside without the cap to the recycled container to allow for transpiration.....and wait!! As Spring approaches and the weather warms... begin to remove the top half of the containers .....do I recover at night? Should I prop them, and build to total removal?... seedlings are ready for transplant in the garden after two sets of true leaves.... does any one recommend a specific fertilizer or additive to assist the youngsters to have the best chance at survival?

Also, do most of you just plant the HOS? Is it necessary to try and separate the HOS for transplant?

I wish I could find someone in my area to share this experience with and ask questions of but I have put a 'holler' out in the VA gardening and have only found one person in my area and she is a GJ'er and seed exchanger but not a winter sower and I just have to try this....

Thanks for reading my ramblings and please let someone set me straight, lol

Comments (13)

  • 16 years ago

    ...so what were the questions?

    Oh I see them now.

    Soil, ferts, soil texture, container prep, marking, seed depth, ventilation, and after sprouting care and feeding.

    Is that all?

    I'll take the first one.

    Soil, or Planting Medium Selection.

    Did you look at the Pro-Mix Corp. website?

    There are a number of VA distributors.

    I linked them below.

    A couple of phone calls should turn up a list of local retailers.

    Anybody want to handle fertilizing?

    Here is a link that might be useful: VA Pro Mix Distributors

  • 16 years ago

    I usually get whatever potting mix is cheapest. They often have ones that say they feed for a couple of months, I go with that. Haven't noticed a difference between those with or without feed, but I didn't keep any detailed soil records.
    Sounds like you've got everything pretty well planned out, the only thing I do different is poke the holes for drainage/ventilation before slicing the containers, it's easier for me to handle them that way.

    MARY

  • 16 years ago

    1. potting mix- any good potting mix, you don't need a special seed starting mix. If you end up with one that's heavy and compresses easily, just add a little extra perlite
    2. Transplant as soon as possible, they'll do better in the ground than in a jug. Feeding is optional, mine don't seem to benefit when I did feed, so I usually don't. Definitely not needed until true leaves. I plant hunks, diameter anywhere from 1" to an entire milk jug in one big hole
    3.tiny seeds I just sprinkle on soil surface. Big ones like nasturtium I just push into the mix. Most seeds will heave to the surface with freeze/thaw cycles anyway.
    4. Keep the top half on to maintain humidity until after germination. Then you can open. Close at night only in case of frost for those that won't tolerate it (i.e. zinnias, cosmos, ect) Perennnials and hardy annuals do fine with frost.

    Karen

  • 16 years ago

    I'm learning so much here!
    Whiteoakian

  • 16 years ago

    Wait 'til you get the tuition bill.

  • 16 years ago

    I don't always get mine transplanted right away because our weather is erratic. I get a good soilless mix with fertilizer for this reason.

  • 16 years ago

    Many thanks to all who replied. I have written the regional manager to ascertain a local location for the product, ProMix; although is seems that my OCD is in overdrive since many of you seem to use whatever... so I will just make some comparisons locally too for products that would be well suited.

    I guess the best way to do this is just suck it up and get on with it, lol...... wish me luck !!

  • 16 years ago

    Call Southern States (link below). I live in Virginia and have always been able to get Promix from Southern States.

    The link below has addresses and phone numbers for 5 SS stores in the Richmond area.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Southern States stores in Richmond VA

  • 16 years ago

    I am in Newport News, and no one has ProMix except Ace Hardware, and that is just the little bags. I buy Expert Gardener and Sta Green from Lowes, and get the kind that does not have the moisture crystals. I have used these for a couple of years and they work fine.

    Becky/ramazz

  • 16 years ago

    I don't cover my seeds unless they're 1/4" in diameter or larger and even then, I just push them into the soil where they'll get the moisture they need. They'll germinate just fine. Some of the smaller seeds actually need the light to germinate. Those that need dark periods, well...they get that at night, just like in nature.

  • 16 years ago

    Heartzlink, not sure if you were aware, but right under the Winter Sowing title for our forum are several blue links, one of which is the Frequently Asked Questions or FAQ, which will take you thru this step by step. I think Trudi must have updated recently becoz it is now even easier to understand and see what to do.
    I buy whatever potting soil is available and cheap. If it feels too heavy and clumpy like Hyponex usually does, I don't use that. I usually end up with Miracle Gro, Schultz, Scotts. I used to get the Sam's brand from Walmart which was very good but I don't see that anymore.
    I don't fertilize, personally, at least in the winter sowing phase. I don't use the Moisture Control, nor the fertilizer-included pot. soil, becoz it's more expensive and not in keeping with what Mother Nature would do via the winter sowing method. I fertilize in the garden beds as I would normally do with either compost or slow-release in spring or if needed in summer.
    I add soil to my containers, then water them and let drain, then sow the seeds, pat them in, or push them in if they are larger seeds, then cover the container with the top of your jug or in a plastic bag (drainage holes and vent holes needed), tape up or tie up, I label with a paint pen from Walmart craft dept, and place outside. Sometimes I wet the soil in a bucket or bin or wheelbarrow first, but it's messier that way and you can't handle more seeds or markers w/o being wet. Hope this helps you figure this out, and here's to much success. Laurie

  • 16 years ago

    Like louisianagal, I use a paint pen (made by Deco from Michael's). After I solder holes in the bottom of my container (not on the sides), I mark a line 3" from the bottom and another line 4" from the bottom. I cut along the 4" line and fill very wet potting soil (regular planter soil, not seed-starting mix) to the 3" line. I always use Fafard potting soil because I've had some bad experiences with Miracle Gro, sadly. I use a piece of duct tape to write the name of the plant and put it in front of the container (to make reusing the container next year easier). After sowing the seeds, I attach the top to the bottom of the container with clear packing tape.

    It's very helpful if you have the patience to write down the date and name of the seeds you wintersow. It's fun to look back and see how long before the seeds germinate and then flower.

    I have never fertilized my seedlings, but then I usually begin planting while the weather is still very cool. They may get a dusting later on if I think about it.

    If you're asking for advice, heartzlink, I'd gently suggest you not wintersow more containers than you can get planted out because the seedlings can become stunted if they're forced to stay too long in their containers, a problem I always seem to have. (Gulp!)

  • 16 years ago

    hey heartzlink I live in Fredericksburg area in Va,I just used the cheapest biggest bags of mix at the big box stores I could get. I noticed today that at HD,inside they had the little bags of mg inside but still had others outside. If you got a warm place to put the big bags they should thaw out rather quickly for u.Suppose to be 50 degrees by the end of the week.Also Hd has their seed racks out...Yay...Welcome aboard....TomVa

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