The translucent spots are where rose slugs (sawfly larvae, small green worms) have grazed off the lower leaf surface, leaving the upper cuticle. If there aren't too many, you can just wipe them off the underside with your thumb. In many gardens, foraging wasps will keep them under control.

A soap spray might kill them (allow 24 hrs) or the recommended insecticide is spinosad, sold under a variety of brand names, but not Ortho or Bayer. Spray under the leaves.

There are many different Ortho products. If you post the active ingredients we can tell you what it's good for.

Sorry, I meant orthonex. Yeah, I pulled off about 50 little green worms. They did a significant amount of damage in just one day!

I guess what I'm looking for is some kind of regimen that keeps them bug and disease free. I can check them every day and respond to whatever is happening. I can spray them with whatever works, on whatever schedule. I am not sure what to keep on hand and what regiment to follow. If some of you could share your methods, or point me to a good place to learn, I would really appreciate it.

If you are anywhere from the Central Plains eastward, the biggest problem is blackspot disease, and it is worse in the East than the Midwest. The most effective fungicides for blackspot are Compass (also considered extra-safe), Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs (NOT any of the Bayer combo products), Banner Maxx, and Ferti-lome Liquid Systemic Fungicide. Unfortunately, many garden centers or counters do not stock any of these, so you will need to call around or get mail order. These products will prevent the spread of blackspot if used every 2 weeks in the East/South or maybe 3 weeks in drier areas.

The Ortho rose fungicide needs to be used once a week and still is not fully effective.

Very few knowledgeable rose gardeners use insecticides or combo products routinely. (I haven't used any insecticides other than dish soap in 10 or 15 years.) Instead, we scout for insect problems weekly and take the minimum action needed to prevent serious damage.

You don't want a bug-free garden, because most garden bugs are harmless or beneficial, helping to contain problem insects and mites. Then there are some problems that can't be effectively controlled in an environmentally responsible way (thrips and japanese beetles), but that will go away after their season.

So I'd say, keep scouting for bugs as you are doing, and bring your questions here, preferably with pictures.

michael--there it all is, in a nutshell! I'm impressed with how concise your writing style is.

Kate

Hi, Kate! I've had a lot of practice.

Michael