Puzzlefan, I've had experience with Snapper rear-engine riders for more than 25 years, and never had (or even heard of) problems changing gears. Not to say that there are not those problems out there, but I am a little surprised to hear it. My mother (RIP) and father-in-law both had/have Snapper RER's, and had/have no unusual problems. Any machine has to be properly maintained, but maintenance on the Snappers is relatively simple.

I guess I need to go and read some reviews, but in my knowledge the Snapper RER is an excellent, relatively trouble-free machine. It's an old, tried-and-true design, and in my limited experience with them I consider them among the very best of riding mowers.

I suggest that you talk to your nearest Snapper dealer and express your concerns. See what he has to say, and what he will warrant to you.

Best luck.

I'm a little confused: Are you talking about a Snapper lawn tractor, or a Snapper Rear Engine Rider? When you mention being able to stand it up you seem to be talking about the rear engine rider, but you say you're looking for a lawn tractor (which looks like a miniature farm tractor - your LT133 was a lawn tractor.) The Snapper rear engine rider is strictly a riding lawn mower. If you actually a 90 pound senior, you might not be able to stand it up on his hindquarters anyway.

I've owned and used a Snapper rear engined rider since 1983, and i couldn't stand it up when i first bought it! And still can't! I use a large screw-hook into the ceiling beam, and a cable come-along. Works well, and i don't strain my back and skinny arms!
By the time i was twenty, i could pass for the skinny guy in the Charles Atlas "before" pictures, and haven't improved on it very much since then!

The RER Snapper is out. I tried to work with it today and gave up. I'm just not strong enough to routinely get the blade gear in place while holding down the brake pedal. Just don't know what to consider now. Locally there isn't much choice, the funny name HUS? and craftsman and a large Cub Cadet. Small lawn tractors seem to be history.

"I'm just not strong enough to routinely get the blade gear in place while holding down the brake pedal."

Perhaps there is too much tension on the blade belt idler. That can be adjusted by loosening the tube clamp under the seat and shorting the wheel base. Newer Snappers adjust in the same place but slightly different way. Main thing is to not get so loose the belt rubs on its' self. The idler spring MAY have an adjustment as well.

As for shifting hard, if that is what you are talking about, have you checked the gear grease in the transaxle? Loosen a clamp on the left hand axle boot, slide it back a little and see if the hex tube under it has grease on it. Sounds to me like it is dry from lack of lubrication.

Walt Conner

Rear engine riders are tough to come by. If your mowing situation allows, a front engine rider is better in many ways. The Husqvarna is a good entry level rider , the other you listed do the job as well. The Cub and the entry level Sears are made by the same (MTD) company. It would be best to compare though and see what seems friendlier for you to manage. The transmission types and how they are controlled are different. This is probably the more important factor. Give them a once over.

I don't understand the problem with putting the blade in gear. Heck, i have an artificial leg (WW II ), and have no problems with that operation, as stated in his message. Unless he is mashing down on the brake pedal first, and then trying to put the blade in gear. That would give him the problem he sez he has. My Snapper RER is a 1983 Model. And still in use. RJ

"Is there a lawn tractor similar to the Snappers that is easy to work with?"
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There is! I'm also a senior, just bought a new Simplicity Regent 26hp/52". Dealer knocked off $400 and I got three years at 0% factory financing.

Has a hydrostatic drive, push on foot peddle to go forward or back, no gears to shift of clutch to hold down. Has cruise control if you need it on straight aways.

Hour meter to keep track of servicing.

Blades engage/disengage with electric switch on the dash.

Can continue to mow backing up (separate switch for this, hit it once and it stays on).

Deck is really easy to remove. Pull two small pins by hand, (they're not under any tension at all), push belt lever to release belt and then unhook deck carrier from front mount. Actually did it in just over 30 seconds this weekend. Not kidding, in less than a minute I had the deck off and slid out. Deck pulls out and stands up vertically for service blades or spray fitting with lube.

My last tractor took 1/4 hr (or more) of back breaking work to unhook the deck and drag it out. Had 6 pins that had to be pulled, (had to use a pliers to pull them), belt was a real bear to get off, pinched fingers every time, then wiggling it out from under the tractor it would catch on one or another bracket, etc. Used to hate it so much I stopped servicing the blades.)

The Simplicity has an outstanding cut, leaves stripes in yard when finished.

Turns on a dime (actually 14" diameter turning radius.) And the steering is almost as good as power steering. Not kidding. So much easier than my last tractor. Can steer with one finger when underway. No where near the effort compared to my last tractor. (It was a Ranch King, made by AYP, same as Craftsman).

So far I have only two complaints. One is the belt release lever is a real stinker to move as the spring is so tight. I solved this by making an extension lever that hooks over the end of the existing lever, and now can push to to it's full release without struggling. (Cut the force required to release the belt to less than half what it was.)
Second is the floating deck doesn't really come off the ground when the deck is set to cut at 4". So I have to crank deck down to 1" cut and it lifts off ground. Think I have this figured out however, if I substitute shorter deck lift cables (different part numbers) should solve problem. A fella in a different forum noticed this and figured it out.

I tell you, this tractor is so easy to use and service, the neighbor kid could do it. (But he ain't going to get the chance, heh.)

I'm kinda a newbie here (but going on 20 years in taking care of lawns) and was going to suggest a Simplicity as well but waited for somebody else to say it first. My 14hp v-twin Broadmoor is 16 yrs old and runs like new! I have a twin turbo bagger and also a mulch kit when I feel like going that route.

As a previous poster said, removing the deck is soooo easy...one can keep the blades nice and sharp. I have two sets that I rotate between. Keep everything greased and (IMO) run Amsoil 4 stroke Commercial engine oil in it and you'll have it for years!

I was also going to add = you don't see many posts on here about Simplicity mowers!

I asked two different Snapper dealers if they could change the spring or whatever to loosen up the mechanism so that I could shift the blade engagement easier. They said no as that would void the warranty. No changes allowed. We will buy another brand but I will definitely write corporate Snapper and tell them to get their engineers working a little harder.

I may be mistaken, but I believe that Snapper, Simplicity, and Allis Chalmers are all made by the same parent company - this is not to say that they are the same tractors. One problem with Simplicity - for me - is that the nearest dealer is nearly 200 miles away, and I live in the heavily-populated Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex! (Please keep in mind that the present day Allis Chalmers lawn tractors are not really related to the former A-C farm tractors - we had one of those when I was a kid, and it was a helluva tractor ... so was the Poppin' Johnny.)

Just get one with 3 blades. Trust me on this. I had a 2 blade mower. Next one will be a 3 blade.

I'm going to disagree with Vinnie S, in that that a 2-blade system is much simpler, and you can generally get to the grease zerks without too much trouble, as well as having only two blades to keep sharp. Unless you really need the extra cutting width that a 3-blade system can provide, I recommend two blades.