I assume there is no "take up", adjustment, in the end of the drag link? Some do have. IF not, remove the entire drag link, mount it in a good vise up close to the bad joint. Insert ball, while holding things in place, hit the top portion of the rounded drag link (on the end) a good sharp rap with a heavy ball peen hammer. Probably several times. This will kink the hole side to side but since it is front to back you are interested in, should work for some time as a temp fix. Or, you could cut off the bad part and weld, have welded, a new or good joint.

Walt Conner

Might try some JB Weld and build it up a little. It's worth a try. slkpk

I've had tie rod ends do the same thing. Re-inserting the ball and peaning the surrounding area, never seemed to last more than a few minutes.

In your diagram it appears that only the one end has the replaceable/adjustable end (but, I believe you said your ends were reversed). I would cut the drag link off, weld a bolt or piece of all thread to the end and replace it with a new threaded end. Or you could find another rod, cut both and weld them together, to make one with removable ends on both. Note: they come in left or right handed threads.

Using my method, I have had them last for years but certainly until next year as he wants.

Walt Conner

Had exactly the same thing happen on my ole 1855MF, I cut the end off, welded a bolt(head cut off) on to it. Now I can replace just the joint if I ever need to.

I'll see if I can get the ball off tomorrow. (The ball that goes into part #12)

The more I think about it, I think it's exactly as diagrammed above, and it's just as Walt has theorized, the ball has come out of the drag arm, and it's not supposed to.

I'll see if I can get it tack welded back on, if not cut it off and weld a new one on.

I don't want to buy a new mower. But I don't want to dump money in a mower that might not be worth it trying to fix.

You can't tack weld the ball into the socket, it has to be able to pivot. I got a new joint at the auto parts house, by cutting off the old one and welding a bolt(proper size and thread) on the end of the drag link it's replaceable if the need ever occurs again.

I had that problem with my old Speedex tractor. I got a bolt of the correct size to fit the hole where the original bolt was bolted in, and long enough to take two nuts after i put it together. I had a friend weld the headless bolt into the end of the drag link. Then i inserted it into the place it was supposed to be, and "double nutted" it in place, leaving just enough space for it to turn. Works great.

best way to fix?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/m/105_Rod-Ends-Heim-Joints-Sleeves.html

may find local and or cheaper elsewhere, link just to show product