Literature sent, check your e-mail.

Thanks for the info. I can believe I can get it off with your help.

Jim

You are welcome.
For the benefit of folks that might sometime run into a similar problem, below is what I sent Jim (along with a cuppla manuals).

Nut on belt pulley is standard thread, "lefty loosey-righty tighty". An impact wrench is helpful if available. I have also found that striking the flat portion on each of the hex planes of the nut with a round punch (hit punch with hammer) several times can shock the nut into submission.

Use the following technique. Your punch must be at least 5/16" diameter on the tip, do not use a center point punch, you need "blunt" for this.

If you are looking at the nut that holds the pulley in place, sight in on the wrench flat portion of the nut. The nut has 6 of these flats.

Choose any flat to begin. Imagine a vertical line drawn on the center of the wrench flat, line runs the same way as the spindle shaft.

Place the tip of your punch to the right of this imaginary centerline and strike the punch with a hammer. Do this for each wrench flat several times. Be careful to stay away from the very edge of the flat or you will distort the nut so that a socket will not fit.

After you have shocked the nut a few times, block the blade with a piece of wood and try your "cheater" again.

A little penetrating oil couldn't hurt either. Snapper(in their infinite wisdom)didn't use a key or any other mechanism to drive the blade, from the pulley except the friction of the parts of the spindle. This means that the nut must be TIGHT,and the proper shims(washers) must be used,because if the nut "bottoms" on the shaft the nut can't be tightened enough.For everyone's information there are also washers between the "brake drum" and the top bearing race on the spindle bearing, not enough here can cause the drum to rub on the spindle housing.Also check the "spacer between the pulley and "drum" for wear cracks etc.

Entire spindle moves unloosening blade bracket. Time to get aggressive with impact and air hammer. Maybe someone used loctite on this one. Ideas? I may fail getting it off without cutting it with a air chisel. It soaked 3 days in JD Blaster.

Jim

Nut is toast. It is off and spindle threads untouched. The washer under the pulley is a spacer with a taper to fir inside of pulley. Mine has a 1/16 inch gap from pulley to spacer. This needs to be replaced also ? I do not see how without a top washer above the pulley it could make proper contact to drive the spindle in this condition.

Thanks for the help,

Jim

{{gwi:348811}}

What series is your RER? things changed a little over the years. My series 21 has the "spacer" under the pulley.I understand older ones didn't. My mower's parts list calls for 2 each 7032027"flat washers 49/64 ID and 1&1/2 OD, no thickness given,between nut and pulley

Not sure but the model is 30085S. I am using a Series 4,4,6 repair manual. I have a new pulley but without modification it would not run concentric to center too much slop on bushing and nut would tighten to bushing and not contact pulley.

I made a inquiry as to fit of a pulley with built in hub. I bought this as a running project. I loved Snappers as a kid because they were indestructible.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170508600694&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

Will this fit?

I cannot weld the bushing and pulley on mine as bushing is a Aluminum composite. (poor design)

Jim

What I get from looking at the parts manual is that Snapper once served the pulley and hub as "2 separate items"....... but beginning with the revision from old pulley # 1-8587 to new pulley # 1-8781, the pulley and hub were a single unit.
The guy on e-Bay lists his pulley as 1-8781.

according to my data the 7018781 pulley, and the 7015290 spacer (or hub) are the parts that superseded the earlier parts(7010787,7018534&7018587)and are used on the earlier models.The spacer/hub is powdered metal and can't be welded.The e-bay pulley looks right if used with the 7015290 spacer/hub,the "hub" is cheap ,around $3

Thanks, I will check local dealer for 7015290 spacer/hub. I ordered the 7018781 Pulley late last night on ebay. Not quite sure why the spacer/hub is made that way other than to fail. I guess it works ok as there are a ton of snappers running with that system.

Thanks for all the literature, repair manuals,insight and knowledge.

Now I might as well do a complete maintenance on the snapper while it is standing up awaiting parts. The repair guide said to put 1 OZ of snapper oil into each side of the rear drive. Is is something special or will some of my gear oils work?

Jim

The Snapper lube refered is "NLGI 0000" (or, NLGI 4 aught).
It is a thin viscosity grease, sort of like straddling the fence between being a grease and being an oil.
Buy it, or NLGI 000, at mower shops or a Snapper dealer.
It is available under other brands beside Snapper.

Thanks for all the help. My old snapper should be alive and well soon.

Jim

What is the socket size for the nut of this pulley ?