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Rusty, Tomplum, Mownie, Walt....Please help

17 years ago

Anyone know Walt Conner's correct e-mail address? I saw a posting where he had instructions on how to check compression release/valve clearance on a Briggs, but his e-mail instructions do not work when entered properly. I have Briggs Mod.#422707, 1214-01, 9406085B, 18 hp twin that will not crank unless plugs are pulled. Battery OK. The gear pinion jumps up and grabs the flywheel but will only turn it about an inch and stops. It appears the shaft going through the clutch still spins but the plastic clutch threads and gear pinion do not spin. Again, flywheel does turn when plugs are pulled. I have broken two gear pinions and replaced one clutch. Thanks for any tips.


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Posted by walt2002 (My Page) on Fri, Sep 18, 09 at 18:03

It is highly unlikely that valve adjustment is your problem, that mostly affects OHV engines. Your flathead generally only needs the valves adjusted when someone has, "done a valve job" and done it poorly.

"I have broken two gear pinions and replaced one clutch"

Are you using B&S plastic (nylon) starter pinion gear? Well, I guess I should ask what the ring gear on the flywheel is as I didn't look it up and not sure I could tell anyway.

I do not post my correctly formatted address because of automatic "crawlers" harvesting addresses from all these lists.

Walt Conner

wconner5 at verizon dot net


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Posted by bertd (My Page) on Fri, Sep 18, 09 at 18:29

Thanks Walt. I have tried that e-mail in proper format and can't get you. Mine is b_l_d@comcast.net. The gear pinions broken are briggs brand plastic gear pinions part #693059 now replaced with #695708. Today I bought another clutch and gear pinion but it's pouring rain in Mid TN and too wet to work on it. Without looking at it now. I'm having trouble understanding why the metal shaft going through the clutch and gear pinion (armature shaft?) would spin and the clutch and gear pinion will not spin while the gear pinion is engaged with the flywheel. It seems to work fine when plugs are removed. Im glad to hear about the OHV v flathead scenerio. Didn't really want to mess with valves, because it has been running good prior to this starter situation. One thing I might mention, coil was recently bad, and my neighbor drove this thing around without the engine cover on and running on one cylinder. I was not present the last tinme the gear pinion broke, but I believe the mower was running hot. Any ideas? Thanks.


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Posted by walt2002 (My Page) on Fri, Sep 18, 09 at 21:54

Running without a cooling shroud plus only running on one cylinder is terrible.

You did not say what material your flywheel ring gear was made of. It will be aluminum, nylon or steel.

The starter shaft has a shoulder with flat places on it that fit into the starter clutch drive.

Walt Conner


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Posted by bertd (My Page) on Fri, Sep 18, 09 at 22:11

Thanks Walt. Looking through the clutch where the shaft goes it is smooth white plastic and I don't see what locks it to the shaft. Oh well, I'll look at the shaft tomorrowow and maybe see what you are talking about if it quits raining. This mower is my elderly neighbor's and he keeps it outside covered up. I have helped him with this mower numerous times this year and keep having different problems. To answer your question, I'm 90% sure the flywheel teeth are steel 10% possibility they are aluminum. I know that they are not plastic like the pinion gear. Appreciate any advice. Thanks.

Comments (7)

  • 17 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    bertd, I don't know how "literal" you took Walt's cryptic e-mail address, and in what manner you used as an e-mail address, but here is the best way I know to tell you how it converts to a usable e-mail address. Take his wconner5 at verizon dot net and alter it as follows: at becomes @ dot becomes . Then, you remove any spaces between any characters, what you have left is his actual e-mail address.

  • 17 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    "To answer your question, I'm 90% sure the flywheel teeth are steel 10% possibility they are aluminum"

    You can easily tell if it is aluminum or steel by using a magnet. IF it is steel, you need a metallic gear on the starter. While I have heard some say that you can use a nylon gear, the ones I have examined are not the right pitch and not hard enough to stand up against steel.

    Walt Conner

  • 17 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I have come real close to doing serious damage to an engine one time when this store employee handed me spark plugs that were extra long in the nose portion. I double checked the old and new one before installing. The thread would have worked but the piston might have hit the sparkplug and jammed the engine. Just my experience.

  • 17 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    You sure should be able to tell if the starter shaft is turning in the drive by inspecting the drive. According to parts, the nylon gear is the one. The IPL for that build shows the replaceable aluminum gear. So if you replace the whole drive- hopefully you are good to go and the starter cranks the engine.
    If your not good to go and the engine is indeed spinning freely, so no damage from running hot and no drag on the PTO end - then it is likely the starter is tired. About the only exceptions tend to be oil burners w/ lots of carbon under the head or issues with power & ground to the starter.
    To test the starter, it takes a known good battery and good jumper cables. Disconnect the ground from the battery if it is installed in the tractor. + bat to the lug on the starter. - battery momentarily touching the side of the starter. Know it will spark. If it cranks, look at the cabling. If t doesn't it is typically a starter.

  • 17 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Replaced starter clutch (2nd time in 3 months) and problem solved. However, first several cranks are slow, then flywheel spins fast. Not sure about that. Thanks everyone. I tried Walt's e-mail as it should be entered and still can't get through. Oh well, I don't need the valve adjustment info so I can contact him if necessary through this great site. Thanks again.

  • 17 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    You don't have any signs of flooding when you go to start it, do you? Are you removing the flywheel to R&R the starter? Key still good? Are all the teeth on the ring gear good? If it still is lugging down, then refer to the last 2 paragraphs of my last post. You aren't doing the drive any favors by continuing to crank it if it lugs down badly when you are starting it either.

  • 17 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Tomplum, no signs of flooding to my knowledge. I have NOT removed the flywheel. The starter can be unbolted and slightly moved to replace the clutch, pinion gear etc. Had to quit working on it again today do to rain. Teeth on ring gear look fine. I'll follow your instructions and let you know when this rain stops! Thanks for everything.

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