Will they have enough time to get established if you plant them late?

If you have roots growing out the bottom of your pots, then the pots must be to small.
Are they still in the original pots they came in?

I think they are two gal. pots, original to my purchase. According to the sales person, they will have plenty of time. We still have temps above freezing even at Thanksgiving, most years..

2 gallons is very small for most roses. I'm not in your zone and cannot make any suggestions. It would be a lot of work to "pot up." Hope someone else can suggest something to help.

If you know where you want them and have a water source near by where you can attach a water timer to water the roses during your absence, plant them now. As long as the proper care is taken when planting potted roses, they can be planted all summer long. They just need plenty of water until they get established.
I have a pot ghetto consisting of last year's rooted cuttings. They often send out roots into the ground they're setting on. It's not a problem until you pick them up and the roots break off. Even then the bush will survive with no effect on its growth.

To transplant a potted rose without having transplant stress follow these instructions;

Planting a potted rose

When planting a potted rose bush, care must be taken so soil doesnt fall from the roots or tiny feeder roots will be lost causing the plant to be stressed.

I overcome this problem by doing the following.
First prepare the planting hole. Dig it twice as wide and deep as the pot. In the bottom portion of the hole mix horse manure or an organic fertilizer with the soil.
With a sharp razor knife cut the bottom from the pot and leave it in place. Then cut down the two opposite sides of the pot about two inches. Using masking tape, rubber bands, or string secure the two cuts then continue cutting the sides to a point halfway down. Secure these the same as the top cuts were secured.
Holding the bottom, place the pot into the hole. If the bush is a grafted plant, position it so the bud union (swollen knob/graft point from where the canes grow) will be 4-6 inches below the soil surface in cold winter growing zones. If the bush is on itÂs own roots, position it so itÂs about an inch deeper than in the pot.
(I'll often plant an own root bush deep enough so the point where the canes branch are buried an inch or so.)

Slide the bottom from the pot. Pull soil into the hole until it come to the lower tape/rubber band/string. Cut the tape/rubber band/string on both sides of the pot and continue filling the hole to just under the top tape/rubber band/string. Cut the top tape/rubber band/string and fill the hole so just the tops of the two pot sides are above the soil. Pull them straight up and complete filling the hole.
Do not tamp the soil. Settle it with a hose set to just a trickle so all the water stays on the soil around the bush. after the soil settles, there should be a depression around the bush. Add more soil until most of the depression is filled. Until the bush is growing well, water daily soaking the area well.
Planted this way, the bush will not know itÂs been transplanted and should show no signs of stress.
When watering, make sure you apply enough so it gets to the roots. A light sprinkling only wets the surface. This can cause the feeder roots to grow towards the surface. In dry spells the bush will wilt. Watering deep eliminates this problem and causes the roots to grow deep enabling them to better withstand periods of no or little rainfall.
A five gallon bucket with a 16D nail hole in the bottom side and filled with water, then placed next to the bush will supply the needed water with no runoff. All the water will soak into the soil at the base of the bush.
In sandy soil do this daily until the bush is growing well. In clay soil, do this when the leaves show signs of slight water distress but at least every other day until itÂs growing well.