WElcome to: The " I learned about old carburetors from that" club!
Yes, i have done that, too--but only once, way back when i was just learning all of the nuances of carburetor and engine and related repairs. And, you have come to the right place for help.
Surely someone here will take pity on you, and either just send you the part you need, or sell it to you. I have done that, at times--just sent things on with no plea for payment!
Maybe somebody with the Christmas Spirit will contact you, and help you out with your problem.
Rusty Jones, The Mower Man

I am a little puzzled. On the lawnmower forum, you talk about a 5hp. Is this a different unit?

On the lawnmower forum, the engine in question is a MODEL 130292.
Those are 5 HP and have the diaphragm type carb.

Posting the Model & Type #'s of THIS engine, certainly wouldn't hurt though!

OK. BILL, HERE ARE THE 8HP. BRIGGS NUMBERS .....

MODEL .. 190412 / TYPE .. 3004 01 / CODE .. 87121610

THANKS, NITROJC.

Have you already tapped with the 1/8" pipe thread?

You might be able to find smaller metric fittings (adapter bushings) at the auto parts store (like NAPA) and maybe save 1/2 the tapping and some of the cutting?

I don't see what you have to lose by trying to fix it yourself. It doesn't work now, so it can't get much worse.

This is the old 2 piece flo jet that has been around since the 1930's. The long nozzle must be removed before the upper and lower carburetor bodies are separated. In like manner, the carburetor bodies must be reassembled before the nozzle is inserted.

I don't know if Napa or a machine shop has a helio coil that will fit, but it may be worth trying. The long nozzle has a tappered seat that fits against a matching seat on the lower carburetor body. This forms a seal so that fuel in the float bowl will not leak out. Frequently, water causes this area to corrode resulting in fuel seepage.

If a repair is attempted, every effort must be taken to ensure the seal between the nozzle and the lower carburetor body is not disturbed.

Check your local mower shops to see if a boneyard might have another carburetor.

Here is a link that might be useful: flo jet carburetor repair

Yes Bill, I already tapped the 1/8" thread, and I plan on using a Brass 1" long nipple in the thread. Next, I will tap the 8mm thread in the inside of the nipple, this will mate with the Replacement parts [Main jet nozzle, and needle locking nut].

Larryf, Thanks for the link it's very helpful. I am concerned about the seal between the nozzle, and lower carb surface. To ensure a Tight seal, I'm thinking of using a super-small neopreme-O-ring, or fiber washer placed between them. What do you think .... WILL IT WORK ?
Please Guys, Give me your IDEAS on this fix. Thanks Again, Jim.

Rusty ... I would hope your not that "rusty". I am surprised you Haven't jumped in here ... to give your TWO cents worth. If your background is Legit, you should be able to Provide a fix here! .... Better late than never ... What say you ?? Sincerely, Nitrojc.

From the link provided:
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"Save the old fuel nozzle, a new one comes in the rebuild kit. Remove the threads with a file or on a lathe, so that it just fits smoothly into the hole. You will need to be able to rotate it against the seat. Put a little fine valve lapping compound (part #94150) on the nozzle seat and lap it in like you would a valve by rotating the upper end of the tube between your fingers. Clean the hole out good, I use spray cleaner, then put it back together with a nice clean seat again."
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The next step in this effort is to make a gasket from some thin teflon material. If you are not able to make a teflon gasket, a gasket can be acquired by purchasing a briggs repair kit 391413. This repair kit was originally intended for the old pulsa jet carburetor used on push mowers. The kit consists of a roll pin and a teflon washer. Discard the roll pin as only the teflon is needed for your repair. A picture of the washer can be seen in the current L head repair manual, section 3, page 18, figure 33.

This repair procedure was provided in the 1996 Briggs update manual.

WHERE'S RUSTY, SURELY YOU WOULD LIKE TO GET IN HERE ......
I AM DISSAPOINTED THAT YOU HAVE NOT CONTRIBUTED TO THE "CAUSE." IS THERE A PROBLEM, OR WERE YOU JUST BULL FROM THE GET GO ??

BILL or LARRY, I had to modify the cavity with filler, just below the threaded portion on the lower half of the carb body. I used some stuff called "Magic Putty". It's an epoxy type mix, you nead together then apply. It can be drilled, tapped, or sanded. It seems to work OK, but time will tell. It is not affected by water, and hopefully gas resistant.
The game plan here is to use a very small fiber washer that will mate the fuel nozzle to the carb body. I know teflon is recommended, but I can't seem to find any ... anywhere. Also, where the nozzle tube goes thru the small bottom hole of carb bottom ... I will use a small neopreme O-ring inside. My concern here is that the additional two pieces will take up 1/16" of space, in effect shorting the nozzle lenght. The Question here is .... will the tip of the nozzle still mate with the upper carb body sufficiently? PLEASE, Advise, and/or give me your Thoughts on the minor modifications. Thanks Guys, Jim.

I simply don't know

Hello Bill, Yesterday, I ran into another problem. Upon fitting the new nozzle down into the bottom of the lower half ... I discovered that I needed to Tap deeper, so I did, but in the process I went thru the bottom of the bowl near the bottom side, about a 1/4" hole. Before scrapping the lower half, I will try to mend it [build it up] with JB Weld. I don't know if JB will hold up, but it's worth a try. Would you by chance know of any other stuff that would work for this? Thanks, Jim.

WELL I DID IT ..... USED THE JB WELD TO FILL IN THE HOLE, IT SEEMED TO WORK. NEXT I WILL DRILL ON CENTER THE HOLE FOR THE MAIN NOZZLE, AND CHECK FOR PROPER FITTING.
I would still ask you people out there to please give me your input on this JB. WELD stuff; What are your Experiences with it? I have read up on the type I used "KWIK" ... Good for leaky gas tanks. Thank-You, Nitrojc.

I have used JB Weld for at least 20 years. It has always given good results for me. After it cures, it does not seem to be affected by contact with gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel or coolant. It does require meticulous surface preparation for good results. The surfaces must be completely clean with no traces of paint, oil, grease, or dirt. Best way to prep surfaces is to get rid of oil and grease by using aerosol carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner. After the surfaces are dry from that, rough up or "skin" the surfaces with sand paper, small grinder, Dremel tool, wire brush, bead blaster (or other abrasive method). JB Weld is very strong in compressive loading but not as strong in tension loading. My opinion is that the original formula version is probably a bit stronger, or at least affords better adhesion, than the KWIK formula. I attribute this to the notion that the orginal formula remains "fluid" longer and so will "settle into" the micro surface scratches more completely, thus giving a "deeper bite". JB Weld repairs cannot be trusted on most plastics (such as polyethylene or polypropylene).

THANKS MOWNIE, YOU HAVE BEEN "MOST" HELPFUL. I do appreciate all the information. Nitrojc.

"Rusty ... I would hope your not that "rusty". I am surprised you Haven't jumped in here ... to give your TWO cents worth. If your background is Legit, you should be able to Provide a fix here! .... Better late than never ... What say you ?? Sincerely, Nitrojc."

Please tone it down. Rusty never claimed to be a professional, he's more of a skilled tinkerer, like a lot of us on this board. But he does have MANY years of tinkering experience and does contribute practical emperical solutions from time to time.

Let's just keep it friendly, ok? More and more people have left this site and I know I would miss Rusty if he's driven out.

Wheelhorse, You and the Wife have the same Birthday; I would hope that's not a Bad Omen. Sarcasium, is only tollerable, if and when a solution is provided!

"But he does have MANY years of tinkering experience and does contribute practical emperical solutions from time to time."

But those are getting more rare all the time, and his condescending missives are more frequent.
Telling someone they screwed up without offering any help or solutions drives people away too!

Bill, Getting back to the carb business, I am proceding slowly with the modification. I still need a few small parts; A 1/8" rubber grommet, and 3/16" O-ring which I hope to locate here. These parts will help to Ensure no leaks. As for the 1/8" Brass insert, I will use a threaded 8mm x1/8" coupler inside to mate, or seat with the Main Nozzle tube. Also, I will use teflon tape on the External threads of the 1/8" Brass Nipple Insert. Nitrojc.

To All the Folks, I still have one unanswered question. I understand that the main nozzle must seal to the bottom of the jet area. However, where the nozzle exits the lower carb half, Must this area also be Sealed ? If so, could I use a neopreme grommet, or O-ring to seal it? Thanks-To-All, Jim.

No addition seal that I recall. Have you tried running the Frankencarb yet? Hats off to you for trying.

THANK-YOU ... To All for the Help, and Support that you have given me thru this Ordeal. Sincerely, Jim.

Hey Folks, Here are a couple of pics that show the 1/8" brass nipple tapped to 5/16" 32tpi ... INSTALLED in the lower carb half. What say you folks ? Nitro.

{{gwi:357713}}
{{gwi:357716}}

Looking at the 2 photos.............it appears to be "a good save". Never say "can't". :^)

Final Stages; Just when I thought I was passed the worst of if ... the Frankencarb delivers another blow. To put on the new top/bottom halfs gasket, I Must remove the float to put the gasket on properly. I suppose, I could just cut it to avoid removing the float, but I want it done right. The problem here is that the float pin will not twist out, and I really don't want to use heat. I have come this far, and don't want to screw-up. There is not enough space to clip, or cut the pin out. DO YOU FOLKS HAVE ANY OTHER IDEAS for removing the float pin ? Thanks-To-All, Nitrojc.

Heres a picture of the pin.

{{gwi:357719}}

To perform the following "trick" you will need a "channel lock" pliers and a very small socket (say around 3/16" or 4mm). Place the socket (or similar item) over the pin on either side so that the socket (or other) rests on the pin boss. Open the jaws of the pliers wide enough to span from the end of the socket all the way over to the other end of the pin. Try to adjust the jaws so that the flats of the jaws are as parallel as possible (so you are squeezing straight into the pin). Apply pressure slowly and evenly to the pin, first in one direction, and then switch the socket to the other pin boss and apply pressure to the opposite end of pin to push in the other direction. Once the pin breaks loose, you should be able to "twist it out" using needle nose pliers. Instead of using the expandable jaw pliers, you might alternatively use a small C-clamp to push against the pin. Good luck.

THANKS Mownie, Sounds like a great game plan to me. The other day, I was ready to try a small pin punch placed on the pin end, and then carefully tap with hammer until loose; but I thought it might peen the end, and I was afraid of breaking a tab, or two.
I think I will try the C-clamp approach first, being that it will push straight on. Nitro.

Mownie, I tried the C-clamp, but it was to tedious to position, and hold in place while tightening. However, I was able to move the pin a little using the channel lock pliers. I moved it back and forth a couple times, then sprayed some WD-40 on it, and some liquid wrench.
I still can't twist it with the needle nose pliers at this time. IS THERE ANY THING ELSE I CAN DO TO FREE THE PIN UP ?? Thanks, Jim.

Are you placing the open end of the socket (or other suitable, hollow object/tool) over one end of the pin? If so, you should be able to move the pin using the pliers. If you can get the pin to move until the pliers bottom out against the pin boss.....the other end of the pin should protrude far enough for you to "bite it" with a SMALL pair of "vise grip" pliers. You will need to twist the pin back and forth while pulling on it to get it to "creep out". This pin is either corroded, heavily varnished, or the pin bosses have been bent or mushroomed, (considering the difficulty you are having in getting the pin out). You might also try "warming" the entire carburetor with a hair drier or by setting it in a sunny window for a bit.

SUCCESS!! Mownie, the hair dryer did the trick ... It was just enough heat, and not to much. The pin was corroded, and it probally was varnish, but came out per. your procedure. Now, I can finally get on with it ... Put the carb together, and get her running again. Thanks-So-Much, Jim.

You are hereby awarded the sum of "1 Attaboy". :^)
ATTABOY! Good news is always welcome.

Since, Good news is welcome, The latest is that the Emulsion tube threaded in and fit the top half like a "glove." The only difference between the original, and my fix has to do with the method of sealing. Instead of the tube sealing on the taper at the bottom, it now seals on the "locked-thread" at the bottom, where the thread ends.
I will try to take a few pics, and attach them later.
THANKS-AGAIN, To-All that helped make this Possible, Jim.

I would like to make a statement here, since one of you has dissed me! To him i send a large Bronx Cheer!!
to the rest, who have shown a lot of respect, i say:"Thank you!"
Oh, one other thing---i don't quit that easily, so get on with the program!
Rusty Jones

THIS ONE'S FOR YOU....RUSTY!!!

{{gwi:357722}}


{{gwi:357725}}


{{gwi:357728}}


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RUSTY, WHAT SAY YOU NOW ABOUT THE FIRST "PIC"?

Again, To All that helped make this "Possible". THANKS, Nitrojc.