Salt raises the conductivity and the salinity, it doesnt affect the ph. A ph of 7.6 is on the very slightly alkaline side, so ? don´t do anything, the fish are fine.

There´s an old say we have in Mexico: "Tanto quiere el diablo a su hijo hasta que no le saca un ojo" ( so much the devil loves his child that he pokes his eyeballs out of their socket )

Do not play around with the water quality parameters unless you need to do it for a very, but very specific purpose like breeding or trying to grow plants that require very specific water quality parameters, if the water ph is between 6.5 and 8 99.99 % of the fish species will be just fine, the remaining .01 % is fish that you will never see in the trade.

I've found that as long as you allow most fish time to adjust to a change in ph, they usually will adapt.

A trick that I learned from a LFS employee is to besides floating the bagged new fish in the aquarium where they'll be residing, to bring the temp in the bag to the tank temp, but then to pour off about 1/3 of the water from the bag, add 1/3 of the tank water into the bag, re-band and let sit for about 20 minutes. The gradual addition of tank water to bag water helps the fish to adjust to the ph of the tank water.

The LFS guy also told me it's just too hard to try and chemically maintain ph that is not natural to one's local water. So I don't try to do this anymore.

With my african cichlids, the only thing that helped raise the ph was the medium that I used. But with my tropicals, I just don't even bother anymore.

Cories are pretty hardy fish. I think they'd probably adapt to your ph.

Plants or wood should not raise the ph. Only certain types of rock [limestone] would raise it. Trying to alter your ph is like trying to hold back the tide. Acclimate your new fish slowly if the store's ph is diff than yours. Raul, that's a great saying and sound advice.

Sherry, instead of buffering your water with the baking soda try using an air stone with the airpump on high. Test the water before and after aerating. More then likely the initial acidic test you are getting is because o trapped CO2 in your tap water. Change of seasons(winter/summer) can affect concentration of CO2 in water supply, usually in winter the water will have more CO2 in it. This is probably why your aquarium water is not as stable. You are buffering your pH, as well as KH, with the baking soda. The water aerates and CO2 disipates. The baking soda dissolves. The water gets even more base as this happens. Then when you are syphoning you are replacing CO2 with the replacement water. I agree that pH 7.6 is just fine or your fish stock, and plants. Salinity will not buffer the pH, but if you are using dehydrated sea water (most aquarium salt that is also for freshwater) it is possible. Seawater can have dissolved calcium carbonate, along with other trace sea water minerals. Salinity is not always good for planted aquariums. CO2 injection or an organic carbon supplement will improve your plants health greatly. The most important nutrients in a planted freshwater tank are usually what most people are lacking. Usually nitrate levels are OK in "most" planted tanks, unless the plants are really thriving. The fish supply the nitrate in the form of ammonium with thir poop and uneaten food. Dont syphon the gravel daily you are robbing your plants of the nitrate. Phosphate is usually in abundance, either from most fish foods, tap water and any ferts you add. Phosphate should be .1-.5ppm or 1/10 off nitrate level. Personally I try to keep mine no more then .1ppm. Potassium is usually lacking in most water, I read so many times that water plants cant get to much of it, I think target range is 23ppm, I have to check on it. The biggest lack of nutrient is CO2. Unless you have injection most aquariums have less then 5ppm. Target range is 15-25ppm. CO2 is needed for photosynthesis, ish only supply so much. Iron is another element that is also important, 1ppm I think is the target, again going by failing memory. Boron, manganese, magnessium are other trace elements that should be added. Recently I have started using hygroponic "salts" as ferts. This way you can dose individually deppending on your specific needs. Also, a years supply of ferts (for me a year to 1 1/2, and I use alot) is only $10. If interessted I can give you the site to order it, awesome stuff. CO2 injection will improve your plants appearance, growth and health. Also, when you get used to it your pH can safely be manipulated. The thing is to take baby steps with it until you get your water chemistry figured out. I am going with compressed CO2 very shortly,as a matter of fact I am ordering the equiptment tonight. I will be selling off my DIY systems (fermentation?yeast-sugar) and parts soon, as well as making some new ones out of leftover parts. If interested let me know. Oh yeah back to ferts. Most plants will use the ferts. from the water column more efficiently then from the roots. Heavy root feeders are a different story,ie: Amazon Swords and their kin.

Thanks everyone.. First I had done tests with meds and salt and the salt did raise ph for what ever reason.. However I use very little mostly with guppies tanks (mentioned good for them???) At any rate all info here very much appreciated and printing it all out!

I take a very long time with slow drip when I transfer fish from store to quarantine (get extra water from store, then put them in quarantine, and over day or even two or three depending on ph of store which is often very low, slowly drip in new water - have air stone and filter meanwhile).

I was just worried that it ends up so high, and wasn't sure why... but have read before not a good idea to adjust it down, (but from tap really too low 5.3 sometimes so thought I had to bring that up)

Woe, will try the air stone idea, read of that elsewhere but forgot it...(although I have too filters in aging water but not same???)

Please let me know about hydroponic fertilizer. I was trying to avoid co2 injections, getting complicated here, and plants doing nicely, fully planted so not much room to grow in anyway, but may be interested in co2 stuff...

Meanwhile, I found this site that has aquarium soil organisms or 'bugs'.. Person spoke to me at length, and theorized that my addition of liquid fertilizer based on New World Aquarium here in NYC telling me thats what my anubias and java ferns needed were probably adding too much nitrogen and phosphorus and overfeeding algae (is growing mildly on plants which I clean off with soft cloth. Plants are on wood attached to places with suction cups, or on rocks so easy to do and tough leaves)

Therefore he mentioned that these soil bugs will keep all more in balance by competing with nitrogen and phosphorus element, reducing algae, and adding more co2 to the water... (due to there metabolism and enzymes)

He mentioned ph would come down as a result of this. It seems to correlate with what I have read and you Woeisome have mentioned re lack of co2 driving ph up.... we shall see

At any rate there products are for industrial use (large fish farms so on) and water industry, but product applicable for home tanks. Amazing photos of projects as well...

Is it ok to post link here??? (http://www.biodigesters.net/aquarium-products.htm)

This site where it is retailed for less (he referred me to it) explains it more as well.

(http://www.thepetstop.com/fish_shop/Miscellaneous/BI-AQUA.html)

Biodigesters microbes are reliable scavengers that thrive on organic mass (waste). As supplied they are in suspended animation (micro-encapsulated) but are revived when added to the tank. Shortly thereafter, they begin to digest excreta, excess food, oxidize ammonia, reduce nitrites, nitrates, and other N-Compounds and reduce odors.

Biodigesters proprietary blend of all natural bio-cultures and enzymes have been selected for their ability to effectively digest/degrade extremely heavy concentrations of organic mass within an aquatic system.

Addition Benefits of Biodigesters

1. Eliminate odors by digesting the organic bottom solids and the naturally occurring bacteria that produce odors.
2. Decrease oxygen requirements for oxidation of organic matter within the water column, thus increasing available oxygen for fish.
3. Reduce bottom solids by converting organic matter to carbon dioxide and water.
4. Eliminates glass and bottom scum by digesting algaes primary food source (nitrogen and phosphorus). As the algae dies from lack of food and is digested by the Biodigesters.
5. Improves water clarity and quality by digesting suspended organics in the water column.
6. Biodigesters, which do extend the life of a filtration system, mean lower maintenance costs and more effective optimization of water conditions.

Well thanks again, fish seem to be doing ok, so will re-read, think about... print outs as my tonights reading, and go from there... I will be trying out this product as soon as I am able to order it...

Best Sherry

Therefore even though I have read this type of catfish likes lower ph and softer water (which I have not tested for and would not know what to do anyway) it would be ok for them at this higher range? (some sites however give a broader range - eeegads!)

I agree if all are fine, leave alone, but the 'they like lower ph' has me a bit worried/wondering about long term affects if any? Thanks again... Sherry

For the most part on pH "requirements" for fish, exception certain "sensitive" and delicate fish, are just the ideal range. The ideal range will give an edge to that particular fish for health as far as being able to fight disease and parasites. Also, an edge for breeding and fry. This does not guarante that the fish will not get sick or will breed. As far as adjusting down, CO2 injection or RO/DI is really the most reliable way without spending tons of money and time on the battle. pH down adjusters are usually loaded with phosphate and cause there own problems, my advise is leave them alone.For the CO2 theory just take 1 gallon of tap water and test the pH. Put an airstone in for an hour with a rapid amount of air bubbles, in other words full blast. Test pH again. Got to go, will check out sites later and post the link for the ferts.

Woeisme... thanks. I did add huge long airstone to aging water container (water from tap is now even lower almost 5.0 ikes, maybe due to recent cold here in North East.) No change, but now reading your note, may test in smaller container... we shall see.. reading it may have minerals coming in from water sources due to rain, snow... guess that could effect things. Will have to learn about doing tests beyond simple ones I know, ph, ammonia so on... best Sherry

Sherry.....I haven't read this whole thread just your original post.....but to put your mind at ease.....I have kept cories....and even some of the more sensitive cories in hard water with a pH of 8.2 and maybe even slightly higher......this hasn't been a problem.

Its safer to just leave the pH be what it is.....than to try to change it and have it bouncing around.

Now some problems that can occur are lose of barbels.....however the fish will still be able to eat and still stay healthy....this usually occurs for other reasons besides a high pH though...so shouldn't really be a concern.

Your spotted corys....if they are grey with dark spots are probably Corydoras Paleatus.

Now if you are keeping them as pets only...they are pretty hardy little guys that can adjust very well to most reasonable water conditions. However if you want to breed them.....they will need to be in a tank by themselves with water conditions that are soft with a lower pH. Their eggs will usually fungus in hard water and high pH.

Oh and I should add that where I live...they switch the water resovoir over a couple times a year......and yes it changes the hardness and pH of the water....If you do small frequent water changes....this will give the fish time to acclimatize without any problems.

Enjoy your fish....
Sierra

OK sherry sorry for the delay , very busy, research and emptying savings for a automatic compressed CO2 system and stuff for my first "Reef". There are also plants and other stuff for sale. I really like the ferts. Also good articles and info. There is also a DIY article for my "original" CO2 generator. I have changed it a little mostly to make it cheaper an deasier to maintain, but it is still the basic idea. Mine is the White PVC one, I am AKA Squidhead at the group associated with this page. This is also good reading, check out the articles and DIY, http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/index.htm , Good Luck and how did the experiment work? Another possibility is the addition of ammonia to your water supply, this can make pH dive. Worth checking if the aeration didn't work. After 3 hours of "heavy" aeration a 1 gallon container of water should have leveled off.