That is a great link, ROn, Thanks

Ffrom my reading on the subject, imidacloprid (the active chemical in marathon) is labeled for supression, but nnot elimination of thrips. And I think the reason for this is the issues raised in the article about how difficult it may be for marathon to migrate into some parts of the plant (like old leaves and blossoms)

It is possible that a spray application of liquid imidacloprid combined with disbudding might actually eliminate thrips... but this is not certain.

Because thrips can persist for a long time in non-adult stages.... it can be difficult to be sure they are actually gone, even though you do not see them.

If you have an ongoing and persistent problem with thrips,
"Conserve" is the gold standard for treatment.

Ardy

Another systemic I forgot to mention that I use on violets is Bonide, available at Home Depot in the U.S. of A.
Ron

Ron,

Bonide stinks to high heaven - and even it is on the label - doesn't kill off the root mealy bugs - and if applied fresh - burns the centers of the violets. I was told to mix it with the soil and let it sit for 10 days so part of the bite would be gone - and then pot the violet using this soil.

But it is cheap... So naturally I tried it.

Irina

I use it here and there's no smell at all and have used it in my violet soil for 2 years and not a problem. As far as mealy bugs go, I take a leaf off the plant, throw out the old plant, wash the leaf in a solution of 1 part bleach and 15 parts water, dry off and leaf for rooting and pot up. Myabe I haven't tested long enough - using the bleach thing for about 12 to 14 years. I also use bleach in my water reservoirs, 15 drops to a cup.
Ron

Ron

Am I understanding you correctly. Do you add the bleach water into your wicking reservoir?
Thanks
Cork

Ron - you are good!

I had an intention to do that to my 2 nautilocalyxes that got RMB - but chickened out. Repotted them with Marathon and isolated. Now I will chop the tops, use your bleach cocktail to dip them - and if they root - I will send the bottoms to the trash. It took so long for the N.Goteburg to recover (especially with stowaways eating its roots) - that I am afraid to decapitate it.

That's strange how almost every grower does good with some species and doesn't with others. Nautilocalyx pemphidius is a cursed plant for me as well as mini-sinnigias - even S. pusilla doesn't grow for me.

Cheers

Irina

I've heard this tip about adding bleach to the water before. I'm curious as to what kind of bleach. I live in the boonies and can't find regular bleach any more; it's all 'ultra' bleach. All of it.

So 15 drops to a cup is for regular bleach, or ultra bleach?

Konfused Korina

Just plain old bleach - Chlorox is our brand.
Ron

I was afraid of that. I've looked specifically for plain old bleach and had no luck at all. Guess I'll have to keep looking!

Thanks.

Korina

So Ron you use bleach instead of Physon.. Physon is what I use to control algae. I have so many reservoirs, I would need more than 15 drops to a cup.. I would be running back to the kitchen and loose probably 15 pounds going up and down the stairs. How much would you use to a gallon?

BTW I have a great tip for yall.. I found a siphon for kerosene at HD that is battery powered. Just put one end in the tray and it will siphon out all the old water into a bucket.. makes it so much easier to take the trays to the tub for cleaning than drawing out the water with a large baster. It is FAST!!

It will also work in the reverse too. Will fill up all my deli bowls fast too. The cost is only $2.97 and well worth it!! They have a manual one.. but I got the battery operated siphon. sooooooooooooooo easy and fast. Going to buy 4 more for back-ups!!

Tea

Tea,

Would depend if you are using a U.S. gallon or the Imperial gallon. Just figure out how many cups are in your gallon and multiply by 15. There are 15 drops in a 1/4 tsp or 60 drops in a tsp.
Ron

Thanks Ron

I will try it on a few of the reserviors to see if it will control the algae..

BTW.. I received a bloom stalk from a friend who also sent me some leaves.. I would like to know what yall's procedures are with rooting these stalks. I have tried it a few times with no success.

Any suggestions or experience would be appreciated.

Tea

Tea,
To root my leaves, I use 100% vermiculite. I cut the leaf stem to about 3/4 inch on about a 45 degree angle from front down to back and let it kind of heal over by letting the cut end start to dry a bit - about 15 or 20 minutes. I wet the vermiculite in a 2" pot, make a hole with a pencil and insert the leaf stem down to the leaf. I then place it in my propagator box which is a clear Rubber Maid container and place under the lights and wait. Some leaves will produce babies in as little as 4 weeks and I've had some that have taken 8 months. Keep it moist but not wet so it will not rot! I've used this method for as long as I can remember and have not lost a leaf yet.
Ron

Thanks Ron, but I know how to root leaves.. it is bloom stalks that I was asking.. do you know how to root bloom stem/stalk.. Do I cut just below the little leaves and place it in the medium?

Thanks
Tea

Tea,

I've had my first bloom stalk after many tries that has rooted. I cut the bloom stalk about 3/4" below the little leaves, remove any blooms on the stalk and insert it into the vermiculite so that the leaves are touching the vermiculite. I have tried many times and this is the first that has rooted. It has taken about 6 weeks to root. I am hoping that this one keeps growing because it is from Ness' Blue Confetti that has single blooms but had double flowers on this one stalk. Curious to see what comes of it.

Ron

Thanks so much Ron.. that is exactly what I needed to know.. I will try it with these and see what does root.

Once again thanks so much..
Tea