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sherryazure

Java Ferns with rust coloring stuff on leaves

19 years ago

3 times I have tried, and all new java ferns (from petland) end up with rusty colored stuff (not film) on leaves, and they eventually die. Some spriglets starting from spores, but worried I wasted my money once again. Other plants are fine, anubias, swords.

Today, I for some reason gently rubbed 'it'.. I was suprised that it floated off, as would moss spores all dried up floating in the wind, in this case just dispersed into the water... I had thought it part of the actual leaf, but underneath the leaf was green for the most part.

I did some searching (and gave up as no luck) and came across a type of fungal disease in land plants called fungal rust.

Anyone here of this in java ferns? Or any idea what 'it' is... can it hurt fish or change water quality? Thanks Sherry

Comments (4)

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Hello,
    It sounds as though you might have a type of algae growing on your java fern. This type of algae is usually associated with a new tank set up but not in all cases. I have this problem myself, it comes from chemicals that are added to my local water supply and also from fish foods, plant fertilizers, etc. I will not try to explain water chemistry as I'm not an expert but in my case it comes from an excessive amount of phosphates and silicates in my tanks. Some of my tanks have a silicate sand substrate which enhances this problem. There are various ways to deal with this problem. You can purchase chemical remover pillows, water filters, and additives for your filtration system. Also keep in mind that almost all fish foods contain phosphates which help to feed this type of algae (diatoms). I have used all of the above mentioned removers and have found them to be expensive and or time consuming as I have eight tanks ranging in size from 51/2g to 125g. I take my java ferns out and gently clean them once a week when doing my weekly water change. You can purchase a test kit for Phosphate for under ten dollars to confirm if it is a problem. I would also test your water supply. If it is in your water supply you are adding phosphates every time you do a water change. Good luck, let me know if you test for phosphates and what your results are.

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Just now catching up as other fish problems.. will get the kit today or tomorrow. could this also cause flashing scratching with my albino cories which were returned to the tank after albino blind cave fish tore their fins up (I cought them ripping holes like a roater rooter into a sword plant, like littl piranas at feeding time - had no idea...)

    I removed most of gravel, acutally tore tank down and started over, as I saw squiggle things swimming around (like little worm - snake motion) after recyling added fish and was feeding frozen foods (not bloodworms, mixed krill veggies rarely fed though) and saw them swimming as I poured food in. (I sheer off frozen part and add spring water to unfreeze) I know bugs can live in extreme temps but didn't think it would be in krill mixture, already quit feed bloodworms for that reason).

    I have just taken albinos out and am overwhlemed with this tank... (as what to do)

    I have spent more money then I have on this. The local midtown nyc water is horrific (gets sewage in it when it rains too much even) I filter shower head, use cold water, and age it in large 50 gallon garbage bucket with chem remover filters and fluvival.... The ph starts out low 6 sometimes a bit more, and in spite of airation, after it is sitting (even with nothing else ie rocks, plants gravel) zooms to at least 7.5-6 which is the top of the ph chart. I add fresh (very slow all day drip) twice a week, (taking some out of course)

    My swords in another tank are doing ok considering I planted them in pots and not quiet enough light, and of course the various annubias are great.

    I will check phosphates and then get back to the board. Could that cause the flashing?
    Also:

    About one week ago maybe more (forget) nyc had a chill and even though I put on a space heater (heaters in three 20 gallons were being used in hospital tanks) I was so cold I had to take a hot bath in the middle of the night.

    Thinking ich but see no spots - of course on white cories??? But also saw another cory in tall 20 gallon flick once or twice. That makes me nervous as I have 4 glass cats.

    Not sure what to do and a bit overwhelmed. Still treating very resistance flex columinaris rescue betta now just with salt dips and clean water each day... better but starting spot just very hard to clear... started feeding medicated foods as I know it goes into tissues.

    Dwarf gourami which I had treated with clout a few months ago when I saw bump on left side of his chin, and extremely small thread.....now returned sans thread, so retreating. after much searching still not sure what it is really... feeding also medicated food (last jungle medicated food in store!)

    I have just spent almost 200 dollors on heaters and this food et all, with nothing to live on for rest of month. This hobby is not the same as when I was younger that is for sure. Thanks very much for your help. If you can see any link between this recent occurances I would much appreciate your thoughts.

    Question: Do I treat main tank that had cories in it. I just found some nice Annubias and thinking of taking java ferns off of wood (which is amazing that ph is still high) would phosphate cause it to rise.. I hate the chemistry aspect but will do some more searching on that. Thanks again Sherry

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I wanted to address your java fern question: if the rust stuff on their leaves is diatomes (which is what it sounds like to me) it should not harm the java ferns at all. In fact, as your tank becomes more established the diatome problem should decrease--that has been my experience.

    I grow my java ferns on rock or pieces of driftwood. Tie the plants down w/string or dental floss, after a couple months their roots will be sufficiently anchored and you can remove the string. They will not survive being planted although this is how I've seen them in the aquarium shops. Grow them in a low light aquarium, high light levels can burn up the leaves. They grow slow at first, I started with one large plant 3 1/2 years ago, divided it into a few smaller plants, now all are large and babies are constantly floating in the tank.

    Good luck w/solving your other aquarium problems!

  • 19 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks to all. Rust has dissapeared (ok a little help from me) those adult leaves have died off, and little plantlets are growing.... sloooooooooooooowly. I read on takisho ammono (sp???) site they do this... thanks for help. Sherry

    Update:

    Gourami survived suprisingly. After clout thing still growing, so did mecurichome stop treat (twice in all one week apart) and salt dip. Gourami unlike betta very passive and easy to treat. Then just put in by self (research showed they may have virus with no cure and may be transmittable, can live dormit long time)... and now notice after many weeks thing is not growing and may be (hard to see) dormant. He is well so far.

    Betta still with flexibacter columinar, what a fighter she is. Still treating now only with salt dip daily (should be more often but hate to move her so much) and clean tank... just gets in tissue muscle and hard. we shall see.

    Cories in another post, a - ok save for one or two flashing, haven't a clue (moved them to hospital tank and old tank completely stripped and started over, no snails wood so on... no wigglies this time) Posting this only if some have similar problem.