I think you mean Alocasia macrorhizza, no? I have 3 different forms of Alocasia macrorhizza...albovariegata, plain green and black stem, and none have ever bloomed for me.

This spring my Alo. mac. wouldn't quit blooming and start growing. Blooms aren't that exciting--except for the first one or two of course!--and they seem to choose either blooming or growing new leaves. Personally I prefer leaves.

Is A. macrorhiza the one they refer to as the "upright EE" and is hardy(ier). I've been overwintering in zone 7a successfully so far. Just wondered what the little sprouts that have been sitting there doing nothing, although overall the plant is doing fantastic this year. If they are not that significant a bloom, I'll probably just snip them off.

Susan

Mine bloom all the time. If you leave the bloom it will form seeds and you'll have hundreds to plant.
I don't bother. I've had a few to drop in the pot and grow on their own.

I might try them from seed, just for the experience. Thanks for the info, everyone!

Susan

they ALL bloom, at least for me, but they usually stay small leafed until the blooms are gone.

the nancy's revenge will not open (stays rolled up) for me but continually blooms.

im with greenelbows1, id rather see them not flower.

Well, as a beginner, I think I'd like to have them bloom just once, collect the seed, and then I'll cut them off next time.

Thanks for the info!

Susan

they dont normally seed easily. in their native habitat, the local bettles do the pollination from one to another. if they are not present, some wont be pollinated at all and no seeds will be produced. they just takeup energy from the plant until it finally rots off.
Dawn

Much has been written about using giberellic acid or other hormones to make both Alocasias and Colocasias flower for hybrid experiments. I'm guessing that the excessive heat in the south central states is what makes them flower regularly without any treatment. Maybe something like a near death experience to preserve the species :) Colocasia fontanesii is the only one I have that has an impressive spathe. The spadix of Alocasia odora and its hybrids is highly scented but this can be rather cloying on a hot humid evening.

Keiko

I'll need to smell to discern if it is cloying! I also have fontanesii, and have seen pictures of the bloom, which is impressive. Can't wait for it!

Thanks, Dawn and Keiko.

Susan

My Macrorhiza's bloom regularly. I set them out in pots in cleveland in the spring and boom here come the blooms. Like was said previously the plant doesn't grow much when it is blooming. Mine have only set seeds a few times, but I usually cut them off after the spathe closes.

good day all. i have several fontanesii which are in full bloom now (4-5 inflorescences /stalk).they are certainly a nice plant. i would agree w/ Keiko that an abundance of heat helps this process along. mine are in the hottest part of my g-house, w/ temps recently running @100+ during the heat of the day. they seem to love it. does anyone have an idea as to how many blooms (spathe/spadix) per stalk can i expect? also, how will i know if i've had good pollination, and produced viable seeds? have been hand pollinating a few of the blooms the past few weeks, and not really sure what to expect. any info on the harvesting of seeds would be appreciated.

thnx,
fuzz

Someone said that beetles pollinate them - but I would think bees or flies could pollinate them too? Mine are in my back yard, but during July and August our temps are close to if not above 100 degrees, and humid, very humid. You wouldn't think of Oklahoma being a humid state, but we get all our moisture on the south wind from the Texas gulf. Sometimes I can barely stand to be out in the back yard, adding more humidity to the air by watering.

Fuzz, how do you hand pollinate? Does the flower contain both male and female parts? I know how to pollinate some plants, but not aroids.

Susan

susan,
I would love to hear from some on this forum regarding the PROPER way to hand pollinate, but the way i do it is to find 2 different flowers, one just beginnning its cycle, (characterized by fontanesii's strong papaya like scent),and the other on past this stage, to the point of pollen being shed off of the male portion of the spadix (usu. @ 1-3 days after the female portion of the spadix emits its scent, and the spathe opens up), take a brush (or whatever type of primitive pollinator stick you've got :-) and deftly brush the lower portion of the spadix of the female active flower with the pollen from the other flower. you will have to remove a portion of the spathe w/ a razor in order to get at that portion of the inflorescence. i am making MANY assumptions that this is the right way to do this. again, any info or links regarding this would be welcome.
fuzz

Do you not have to let the female flower ripen in order to produce viable seed before you cut it off with a razor? I used to cross-pollinate begonias to try for new cultivars, but always had to let the female flower ripen before it could be split open for seed.

Susan

the razor is used to simply cut a small "window" in the lower portion of the spathe. such that the lower,female portion of the spadix can be pollinated w/ the pollen from another flower. it is simply an "access panel" the female flower is then left to produce the berries which have the seed. hopefully ;-)

Fuzz,

It sounds like you are using the right technique. The main variable between aroids seems to be the right time of day to do it. The two most likely are early morning and dusk, so I would try twice a day if you are not having any luck geting them to take.

Keiko

thnx for the input Keiko. in the mornings, the scent is exceptionally strong, and this is when i usually try. from what i've read, (or been able to find on the subject) the scent acts as an attractant for the natural pollinators (beetles), thus facilitating the natural transfer of pollen from one flower to another.
thnx again,
fuzz