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kelly6780

Please Help Me FAST!!

19 years ago

I planted a 3 foot rhodo after the frost this spring...late April if I remember correctly. It didn't look so hot when I bought it (I can't resist a rescue)anyway, I planted it and as it was shedding yellowed leaves it put on healthy looking green leaves and, in my opinion, was flourinshing. However, in the past two weeks all the leaves look limp, at all times of day. After a watering, first thing in the morning, etc. Just yesterday an encore azeala planted close to the rhodo in question is also looking limp. The same kind of azalea on the other side is fine. WHAT have I done? I'm thinking of digging up the rhodo and cutting on its roots since I didn't know to do that when I planted it. I recently did that with some smaller rhodos and they have put on new growth. But there wasn't anything wrong with them to begin with. Please help me. I really love the plant!!

Comments (7)

  • 19 years ago

    The leaves should look limp in the heat of the day. That is a normal response. However if they are limp in the morning, then that indicates that there is a problem.

    Make sure that the roots are getting wet. Rhododendron guru Harold Greer noted: "Quite often a plant will get completely dry and then no matter how much water you apply, the rootball will just keep shedding it. The top of the soil may seem wet, and the soil around the plant may even be very wet, but the actual rootball of the plant is bone dry. This is especially true for newly planted rhododendrons, and it is the major reason for failure, or at least less than great success with that new plant. It is hard to believe that a plant can be within mere inches of a sprinkler that has been running for hours and still be dry, yet it can be SO TRUE!".

    If soaking the root ball for about 30 minutes doesn't bring the plant back, then it has root rot from too much water and nothing will bring it back. The symptoms are the same for no water and too much water. The difference is that with no water you can water it and it will recover. With too much water, it gets diseased and will never come back.

    Before planting always test the drainage. This involves digging a hole about twice as deep as the height of the pot. Then fill this hole with water and see how long it takes to drain. If it doesn't drain in one hour, you have a drainage problem. The easiest way to solve such a problem is to use a raised bed with good well drained acidic soil.

  • 19 years ago

    I went outside to look at my rhodo and azalea again. No change in the rhodo, BUT could there possibly be aphids on my azalea? There was buggy looking things? These plants are no where near my roses or anything like that; however I have had to run the little buggers off twice this year. They don't look like aphids that were on my roses...I just want to treat the right thing!

  • 19 years ago

    They probably are not aphids. There are other critters. Check the 'Problems' section of my website below for symptoms under 'Leaves':

    Here is a link that might be useful: Common Problems and Their Solutions.

  • 19 years ago

    If I had to make a guess, I would say it is not any bugs that are causing a problem with the rhododendron  itÂs because the plant sounds stressed, and bugs are attracted to stressed plants.

    When I first starting growing rhododendrons, I made the mistake of not slitting the root ball, and had to dig up a plant or two months later because of the problems youÂre describing. At that time, I did cut the roots in several places; I soaked the root ball for 30 mins/an hour, and then replanted the rhododendron. I kept my eye on it to make sure the root ball never got too dry again, and now they're just fine today (years later).

    For the bugs: A steady stream of water (if youÂre into organic gardening) will knock the aphids (if thatÂs what they are) off the plant. Currently, IÂm using the water trick to knock off white flies and it seems to be helping  my rhodos look pretty healthy, anyway.

  • 19 years ago

    Thank you dee and rhodyman! Today I dug up the plant and slit the roots. Problem 1: I just about attacked that thing and coud not hardly make a dent, literally. It was really tough, and I'm a pretty strong and determined kind of gal. When I finally did get to some of the roots, they were dry, yet a few were black. I recognize this as root rot from my houseplants, don't know if it applies here. They were plenty of healthy looking roots, though. Soooo, I'm happy to report that the soil drains well, the root ball was dry (not so great, but at least not soaked beyond repair). I just hated being so hrash with my beloved plant. Moral of the story...I either helped to kill it quicker OR did the only thing that could be done to help it survive!? Keep me and my rhodo in your prayers!

  • 19 years ago

    Kelly, for next time (so this doesn't happen again)

    If you have a plant that has been in the container so long the roots are very dense and matted, you can encourage roots to extend into new soil by careful root-pruning. With a SHARP knife, cut away 1/2" of matted roots from the edges of the root ball of a 1-gallon plant -- 1" from plants in larger containers.

  • 19 years ago

    Â and if the plant ever dries out before planting, soak it for half an hour or so before planting. The root ball should be fairly heavy, indicating moisture.

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