Why bother? Why waste your money? Azaleas, rhodies really don't need any regular timed watering schedule other than you doing it manually when they actually need it.

Of course, newly planted shrubs, whatever they may be, will require watering in order to keep them well.

Should they be in fully sun, that will require a bit more diligence. Then you mention you have clay which makes for poor drainage with it's 'water hold' and you want to put it on a daily watering schedule? That'll kill your azaleas in no time.

It doesn't make any sense. None.

This post was edited by birdsong72 on Sat, Aug 30, 14 at 9:41

These are freshly planted. From what I understand, they must stay moist for the first year. Does anyone else not use irrigation in the first year?

EDIT - The system has already been run. I have a Yuletide Camelia and a Limelight Hydrangea that are drip irrigated. If they don't need regular watering, then I can always add a shutoff valve for the Azaleas. All opinions welcome and thanks for yours.

This post was edited by Bama_Joe on Sat, Aug 30, 14 at 10:42

Can anyone in similar conditions please try and guide me to successfully starting off my Azaleas? Input on the Limelight and Yuletide welcomed as well. I ammended with soil conditioner as well, not sure how to relay that as you didn't watch me plant them. I did ensure the soil attached to the rootball in the container was an inch or a hair more above the soil surface. Then, I applied soil conditioner around the base, raising the surface to the base of the container soil. I just read that drip emitters arent to be used with Azaleas, but also hear sprinklers promote diseases. Just someone new to things and asking for some guidance. Thanks!

Joe

Too much water can cause Phytophthora crown rot or collar rot or wilt. This root rot is the major killer of rhododendrons and azaleas. It develops when roots are growing in wet conditions. Sphagnum moss and bark dust combined with good drainage seem to prevent crown rot or collar rot, but do not cure it. Also, be sure to keep the mulch back 2 to 3 inches from the stem to prevent crown rot or collar rot.

Too little water can permit desiccation and also cause the plant to die. In less severe cases, drought has been observed to prevent flower buds from opening, as shown in photo on right, or causing open flowers to wilt prematurely. Usually watering is safer in cooler weather. In hot weather, moist roots can quickly progress into root rot. The best compromise is to 1) use a well-drained soil to prevent excessive moisture, 2) use a mulch to keep the soil cool and moist, and 3) only water after soil has started to become deficient in moisture. You can usually sense this when the leaves roll and only unroll at night. However this same condition occurs when the plant contracts root rot.

Do not mistake the normal wilting action caused by extreme heat or cold as an indication of a problem. It is normal and will go away when milder temperatures return. Desiccation of the roots can be serious in cold or hot conditions. Only water when necessary and in hot weather always err on the dry side, but don't hesitate to water plants that look wilted in the morning. In hot weather it is normal for rhododendrons to look slightly wilted in the heat of the day, but if they look wilted in the morning, then they are too dry. Watering may be needed in winter or summer.

Here is a link that might be useful: Excellent planting guide.

I don't know where some of these other people live, but in Houston, Texas, I have found that you cannot water azaleas too much in our hot summers. I do not have a sprinkler system but hope to get one soon. I have not found that lots of water in the summer causes any diseases in my azaleas. What's bad is to come back from a vacation and find your azaleas wilted or dead because they weren't watered while you were gone. I have found that indicas, such as Formosa, are rather tough compared to the smaller varieties. I came back from a vacation and found all of my Red Ruffles (a smaller variety) dead. My Formosas were OK, but somewhat wilted and not happy. They did survive. All my azaleas are planted in raised beds, but they cannot live without frequent watering in the summertime. I hope you added a lot of organic humus, peat, potting soil, and/or cow manure to your soil. Azaleas cannot live in clay. Their roots cannot penetrate clay. Also, there is always a higher pH in clay (alkaline soil), which azaleas cannot live in. The higher pH makes the iron get tied up with calcium, and the azaleas cannot get enough iron if the soil is not acidic. The leaves will turn yellow and they will die. In fact, when I plant azaleas, I discard about 90% of the clay soil and put in new good acidic soil. You still have to feed them acid fertilizer after they bloom. I hope this helps.