I don't think soil tests cost more than 8-10 dollars..maybe they've gone way up or are higher in your area.Look up your cooperative extension in your county, you can call and ask how much it is. At any rate, if you can't do the soil test, your next best option would be to ask a local rose society..someone would more than likely be very happy to go and look at your roses. Without pics,or a personal look at them, anything we might say would just be guesses. I, personally have at least a half a dozen..so you really need to post some pics or get a hands on opinion. Good luck...Donna

There is a company I was referred to by the county extension office in the Phoenix area (Maricopa county) that does soil tests. A complete analysis with recommendations is $70. I don't want a do-it-yourself test kit. I might finally be able to do it late next week.
Margaret

There are very good rose societies in Arizona.
Very active groups, with knowledgeable Consulting Rosarians.

Find them by looking for Local Societies, at the American Rose Society website:
http://www.ars.org/

If some of these folks are local to you, they should be your best asset.

Jeri

Here is a link that might be useful: American Rose Society

How about pruning? We had some old shrubs in our yard that were rejuvenated by removing the dead wood.

Or consider that the plant came with Rose Mosaic Viruses and has gone into decline because of them. In colder climates we see the RMV leaf patterns when the plants are stressed, often by cold.

you didn't say what the roses were you had or if they were grafted or own root. I know i've read that one of the disadvantages of mf rootstocks is that they can be shortlived. And as zack mentioned the pruning. the older wood won't be as productive as the newer.

As a local CR, I doubt you have 'rose sick soil' more than you have depleted soil since Phoenix-area soil is typically alkaline, heavy clay, high in calcium, low in humus. Have you added any chelated iron, soil sulfur or phosphorus, other than what's in the rose food? If not, your roses have probably used up everything available to them. Once a year, I add 1/2 cup triple super phosphate and 1/2 cup Dispersul directly into the soil for each large bush (less for smaller, more for for climbers) right after winter pruning. Two times a year, in March and September, I apply 1 TBL Kerex chelated iron into the soil around each large bush (again, more for large, less for small).

Phosphorus doesn't move through the soil with water and sulfur is extremely slow to break down. By auguring 6-10inch holes at the leaf line around each bush, you're applying these nutrients right into the root zone where they're needed. Chelated iron moves through the soil so it can be scratched in.

Another addition that might help your garden is Epsom salts twice a year. The magnesium sulphate helps green up the bush plus it's supposed to encourage new basal breaks. Again, I apply it to the soil surface in March and September, our active growing seasons. Actually, I throw a handful around each bush when it looks like rain, lol.

I prefer Dispersul to the yellow pellets as it breaks down faster.

What kind of organic rose food are you using? Millers Blue Label, Mills Magic, Dr Earth and Berridge private label all contain alfalfa, cottonseed meal and at least two other 'meals'. Although I use some or all of them, I still use a handful of alfalfa pellets around each bush, too. Once a year is ample, IMHO, but some folks brew up their alfalfa tea. There's a recipe for every rosarian but it's effective at pulling roses out of the doldrums, too.

Remember, summer sucks for people and roses, both. Don't add any fertilizers during the June thru mid-September timeframe and don't spray anything more toxic than water for what few bugs we have. Once it's cool enough to work outside again, start up your fertilization program.

I like to pour a little fish emulsion around each bush in mid-September to give them a treat. It's getting more costly, though, so they may not get as much as they want this year.

The Phoenix Rose Society meets tomorrow, 07-15, 7:30pm, at the Valley Garden Center, 15th Ave between Thomas and McDowell Rds. If you have time, we'd love you to attend. There are four other rose societies in the city but Phx is the last one this month. Sctsdl, West Valley (Peoria) and Glendale don't meet again 'til September. Mesa/East Valley's next meeting is Aug 14.

Thank you, moroseaz. That information was extremely helpful. I would love to go to the meeting tonight. Unfortunately, I work graveyards, so will be catching some sleep right then. I wondered if the roses had used up something necessary in the soil. There are about 20 in this particular bed. I will take note of what you have suggested, and apply them to my other rose beds as well. I use the Berridge rose food mix.
Margaret

Glad to help. Adding sulfur and phosphate once a year makes a huge difference, IMO. It's also important to add these when planting your roses. You'll notice it first in growth rate then in cane size. You can also cut down the amount of work by using a spade to slice into the soil, pour half into the hole and tamp it back down... twice per bush. Also easier on your back and hands doing it this way. You'll slice into some feeder roots but the damage is minimal. Just remember to water, water, water before and after applying any amendments. Seems like there's salt in everything, including the city water, so you're constantly battling salt build-up. Watering deeply 2-3 times a week instead of a little every day or two helps keep it manageable.