If you have a moisture problem with the foundation and siding, don't hide it, fix it. The "after" picture seems to show some green areas which may be moss and an indication that there is moisture getting into your foundation. Before you do any planting you need to find out whether there is a problem and, if so, what needs to be done about it. Do you need gutters (pain though they be)? Do you need to slope the ground away from the house more so the water can drain away from rather than toward the foundation? Is a French drain needed?

I'm no expert on the subject, but have had some experience with a wet crawlspace and the resulting problems, so I encourage you to do some research on that issue, then come back to ask about plants. You might want to start with some searching on the home side of gardenweb, maybe the Home Repair Forum. Post your after picture and one made from farther away to show more of the lay of the land and ask for their thoughts. Let us know what you decide.

Here is a link that might be useful: Home Repair Forum

The good thing is that it's a slab foundation with no crawlsapce or basement, so I'm not too worried about that. It's really the siding that has some moisture damage, mainly because it is a shaded area. But as far as dainage, luckliy there's a decent down-grade from that bed along the foundation and not much rainwater accumulates. Thanks for the helpful link...I'll see what the folks in the home repair forum say!

If you're sure there's no moisture getting through to the wall, then we're back to the question of which plants to choose and how to place them. For starters, it would probably be a good idea to move the bed out farther from the house so there will be some space for air movement between the siding and the mature plants. That would help keep the moss from growing on the shingles, and if you ever need to do any work on the siding or replace it, you'll be able to get in behind the plants to work.

Beyond that, a lot depends on personal preference and on the microclimate along that wall. Generally, I break out in hives at the though of a straight line of one kind of plant in my own yard, but you may love that look. Do you want a variety of shrubs or a row of one plant like what was there before? Do you want some hostas or other perennials in front of the shrubs? Consider putting a bed along that side of the deck and curving it around to provide a smooth transition to the bed along the side of the house.

If you want some specific plant suggestions you'll need to give us more information about what zone you're in, whether that area is sunny, shady, or something in between. What type of soil do you have (clay, sand, etc.)? Contact your local extension center for information on how to get a soil test done. Auburn does those for $7 (I think) and will tell you what amendments and nutrients you need for that area.

I'm sure others will have suggestions and questions. You have a bland slate that you can have some fun with if you want to play around with ideas.

Thanks for the suggestions...I'm looking for something uniform to go along the wall in between the red tip phoninias, preferably a flowering shrub. I'd also like to keep it simple without any perennials staged in frot.

I just need something that can tolerate a clay-based soil, a lot of shade and won't grow too tall. I was looking at indian hawthorn and thought it was very pretty, but wanted to see what you guys think.

Hmmmm, those pittosporum were so pretty to begin with. But I've had wheeleri pruned to 6 inch stumps several times over the years (for a variety of consulting projects) and have had no problem with them coming back beautifully after a few scary weeks of stumpiness. What a shame!

Indian Hawthorn needs to be planted in the full sun, or it is likely to develop a nasty foliage disease this plant is very susceptible to. It will also be rather leggy and sparse, rather than nicely full and compact. I always think of Rapheolepis (Indian hawthorn) as the plant to put in those sunny locations where azaleas just won't thrive: parking lot islands, road medians, etc.

Thanks for the input rhizo...I think the reason I killed the pittosporum was because I cut them back shorter than 6" (more like 3-4"). Is there anything else you'd recommend that would be okay for those conditions, perhaps azaleas even?

Okay, I think I've decided (after some researching) that I want a dwarf or frost-free gardenia as a replacement. They seem a little high maintenence at first, but I think it would add a nice color and smell to the back of the house.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dwarf Gardenias

Dwarf gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides 'radicans') and 'Frost Proof' (Gardenia jasminoides 'Frost Proof') are very different from each other. Dwarf gardenias are often considered more of a ground cover; they aren't a vine, but don't behave like a shrub either. Depending on the size (height) of plant you are looking for in this location, it might be an OK selection. I've always liked them.

The 'Frost Proof' gardenia is one of the many shrub cultivars. Who knows how tall it will want to get! I did a bit of research on this and it was listed as anywhere from 4 feet to 6 feet! I've not grown this particular gardenia, but most of the others that I've seen mature to at least 5 feet. They can certainly be kept to a lesser size than that, but with annual pruning, you might end up with more 'box' looking shrubs.

The literature on 'Frost Proof' is interesting in that at least one source mentions that it is relatively pest free. I wonder if this is a true statement or sales hype? You see, gardenias tend to be wicked whitefly magnets.

You know that saying, "if you build it, they will come"? If you plant gardenias, they will come. Including the dwarf cultivars.

Gardenias require excellent drainage and are low moisture plants. I wonder about the suitability of this site. I'm just going by what you've said, which might not give a good picture of the actual conditions.

Tell us, what is the height you wish these plants to grow? And are your plans to dig up the pittosporum and prepare the soil for new shrubs in anyway? Do you have a rototiller?

If you can remember, I had that black sooty mold problem on the gardenia in the front of the house, so I definitely understand what you're talking about! But I'm not sure if the frost proof variety is any more resistant.

I'm need something that will grow no higher than 3'-4' and I am going to prepare the bed using my neighbors rototiller. My wife actually liked the idea of encore azaleas or gardenias, something with a color than would match well with the yellow side of the house :-)

What about a dwarf crepe myrtle?

It's too shady a location for the crape myrtle, and I expect the homeowners want something evergreen along the side of the house.

You're right, I missed the "mostly shaded" part.

I've pretty much decided on azaleas, but I'm trying to find a variety that matches the type I have in the front of our house...something with larger leaves and more full. Pics can be found here:

Here is a link that might be useful: Azalea project

If that azalea is blooming now it might be one of the Japanese Satsuki hybrids called Wakaebisu, which happens to be one of my all-time favorites. It is naturally very low growing and wide spreading....you'd never have to prune it in that location. Doing so would ruin it's natural form. Is it a late bloomer, or did it flower with the rest of the azaleas around town?

I can't really tell from the flowers if that's it, though.

Don't forget to consider a white azalea. White looks so fresh against a yellow background.

We CAN warn you against any of the Southern Indica azaleas, which can be very large growing. They wouldn't be happy having to be pruned heavily.

Yes, it was definitely a late bloomer...bloomed in early May opposed to early April like the other one's in the neighborhood. I wonder, does the Wakaebisu have a white flower variety?

Wakaebisu is a hybrid....it doesn't come in a collection. It's color is what I think of as a dusky pearly pink. Nothing quite like it. I'm sure that there are other that bloom late, but this is one of the more common ones and a real public favorite.

I'm sure that there are some Satsuki azaleas in a wide range of colors, this is just one of them. Oh yeah...(slapping my forehead)....there are the Gumpo azaleas! They're a smaller Satsuki, too, and I know for certain that there you can find white Gumpos. I'm not sure about the bloom time.

Attached is a link featuring Wakaebisu. If you click on the picture of the white azalea above it, you'll have the information on Gumpo White.

Both of those hybrids should be found at any decent garden center

Here is a link that might be useful: Click here

I just found an article describing the major azalea hybrid groups and it mentioned that 'Satsuki' means '5th month'. They ALL tend to be late bloomers. ;-)

I'm not sure the leaves are the same. I just bought the house, so I have no idea what the source was, but in the line of azaleas out front I had regular bloomers, some about a month later, and then the ones which are blooming now. There's a couple of white ones, but all the others appear to have the same reddish-pink blooms.

I'm going to go out on a limb and suspect that they were all purchased at a big box store at the same time... so even if the labels existed they might be wrong.

Tee hee...the labels WRONG from a big box store?? NO way!

What about something such as nandina Firepower? It is dwarf, maybe 18" tall, turns reddish bronze in the fall, has clusters of white flowers and then red berries. I thinkit would look good with the photinia, although small.

It also looks excellent interplanted with azaleas if you go that route.

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions (especially rhizo)

Just thought I'd update everyone on which azaleas I chose to plant. Four 3-gallon azaleas - Fascination, Glacier, Hilda Niblet and the fourth I forgot (but maybe pink gumpo).
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How pretty! Be sure to take some pictures of those azaleas when they bloom. They will provide a nice show for you every spring.

Are those little pepper plants in the foreground?

Thanks Rhizo, will do! They are indeed pepper plants! Bell & jalape�o and some tomatoes in the buckets (planted them too late this year, but going to keep my fingers crossed).

Rhizo! Need your help again! :-) My new azaleas are now covered in spots! Is this anything I need to worry about? I also have some euonymous that are showing dead spots. See pics below...

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The azaleas are suffering from a bad case of azalea lacebug. Look on the underside of the foliage and you'll see the adults crawling around as well as the tell-tale tar-like fecal spots. Are your azaleas in too much sun? Lots of direct sunlight stresses azaleas and makes them so susceptible to this pesky insect. They can become infested regardless of the sunlight situation, though.

Unchecked, ALB can do a real number on azaleas.

Can't say what's going on with the Euonymous. Do you have a bad case of Euonymous Scale going on? Do you notice anything on the foliage and stems? That cute dog of yours wouldn't be...you know....taking care of business on the shrub, would it? I don't remember if it's a boy or a girl. ;-)

Bingo! I found the lace bugs this morning. The azaleas are planted on the North side of the house an usually only get a couple hours of direct sunlight per day.

Now what to do...I'm not sure if lace bugs go away after it turns cold, but I've read that neem oil may work as an insecticide.

The Euonymous does seem to have a white powdery substance on the foliage in certain parts. I'll have to look up if this is Euonymous scale.

Thanks Rhizo!

If you post some close ups of the leaves of your euonymous, we can tell what the problem is.

The azalea lacebugs do NOT go away in the winter, especially in your location. In colder climates, the adults will disappear but the eggs overwinter just fine.

I'd use a horticultural oil of some kind, applied to the UNDERSIDE of the leaves for some help in smothering the eggs and nymphs. Some pump up sprayers have nozzle attachments that spray UP, which is a big help in getting proper coverage to the underside of leaves.

If the lacebugs are not controlled, your azaleas will lose everybit of their chlorophyll....which will not return. If you can control them, the new (healthy) growth will soon cover up the older, infested foliage.

The horticultural oil is also the most recommended product to use on your euonymous scale. This is a dreaded insect pest on this particular plant, by the way. Very difficult to manage.

Rhizo, do you have a recipe for homemade horticultural oil that you've found works best with azaleas or lace bugs? I found this link, but wanted to get your input first.

BTW -Here's a close up pics of the euonymous:
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Here is a link that might be useful: Homemade horticultural oil

Sheesh, is that ever a bad case of euonymus scale!

I have never used a HOMEMADE recipe for horticultural oil, nor would I ever endorse a recipe. I've seen the results, however. The commercially manufactured products are safe, effective, come equipped with directions. It is almost impossible to come up with your own recipe of oil/soap/water that will not separate and coat your plant with gooky gook. There are many organic options for horticultural oils, including those that are totally vegetable based.

The commercial products are formulated to form a solution that will cover your plant with a very fine coating of the soil that won't be harmful to your plant yet still smother the insect.

I gotta tell you, my friend...this looks like a very bad infestation of euonymous scale. Many would remove the plants entirely and replace with something else entirely. Others would prune their plants to the ground so that they could start all over again, making sure to begin a spraying routine from the get-go. Whatever you decide to use as your oil, know that you will have to use it judiciously on all of the plants, a few times a year, from now on.

If you decide to go with a commercial product, be sure to read and follow the directions. You should never apply an oil based product in the harsh sunlight, or in very high or low temperatures.

This species of scale goes hand in hand with your plant, sorry to say. Great pictures!