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baci_gw

Amaryllis pollinators and time

20 years ago

There are some great posts here on Amaryllis pollination, but I have not found answers to a couple of questions. In my zone, Amaryllis are kept outdoors year round. I have different varieties close together & am hand pollinating. I am not crossing at this point  just pollinating the variety with itself.

My questions are what are the natural pollinators & when do you pollinate?

I hand pollinated morning glories last year & they open at 4 am. I had to tie the flowers up, as I did not want to hand pollinate at that time. Has anyone tied up their amaryllis buds up if they expected them to open before they pollinated?

Comments (8)

  • 20 years ago

    Never tried doing that...that is such a COOL idea though!

  • 20 years ago

    I haven't tied the buds but I just have different levels of temperature throughout my home so I can put bulbs in each room to try getting them to bloom at the same time to share polination. My warmest South room is for quickest growth. If I want a group to bloom at the same time, the fastest grower goes outside (currently 65/50F) to slow it down and put the slowest grower in the warm room (75/70) to speed it up. My north room is unheated (65/60F)so the mid-range goes into that room. Works out ok.

  • 20 years ago

    Hi Baci,
    Anything from bees to hummingbirds too a good stiff breeze can cause pollination. H. calyptratum is pollinated by bats!
    In Hippeastrum,the stigma is receptive before the pollen matures. This favors cross pollination over self pollination. If you are serious about the particular crosses or selvings you will need to isolate the plants inside a greenhouse or sunroom to keep stray pollen from sneaking in. I neuter the first 2 flowers to open before the pollinia open by slipping a coin envelope up the filaments and cutting the pollen sacks off. When the tip of the stigma turns up it is ready to pollinate. The tip of the stigma will open into 3 segments,some very distinct and fuzzy and some not much more than tiny knobs.Cover them well with the pollen of choice and keep isolated for 2-3 days.
    And if you don't want to bother with all of that,just dabble away and enjoy the results. It's nice to get a few surprizes out of seedlings.Sometimes the choices the bees make are very nice. Lora

  • 20 years ago

    Thanks everybody - I appreciate the info. In looking at them they do not look easy to tie up, so LoraÂs method makes sense. I have been waiting for one to open for 3 days now, & they are definitely not time dependent like the morning glories. The temperature makes sense  they seem to open slower with the cooler temperatures. I am going to try moving the bulbs I want to bloom to a warmer location to encourage blooming.
    Thanks very much for the detailed info on pollination. I will save it & try it. I donÂt mind crosses, but I am just experimenting with some of them. I appreciate the info on time they needed to be kept isolated  that was another question I had. This forum has the best information on this subject I have found.

  • 20 years ago

    I've read in several posts where upon pollination the flower soon wilts.

    When this wilting occurs can we safely assume fertilization has successfully been accomplished?

  • 20 years ago

    Hello
    Lora
    I think it is the pollen that matures before the stigma is ready and not the other way round.
    ARIF

  • 20 years ago

    I have seen daylily breeders use a small piece of tinfoil to "isolate" the stigma once pollinated. Would that work for amaryllis?

  • 20 years ago

    Hi Arif,
    You are absolutely correct,the pollen matures before the stigma. I didn't catch my backwards writing :O Lora