With optimum conditions, it's possible to see blooms in 2-3 years... but as normal gardeners, we're probably looking at more like 3-5 years.

While adult bulbs prefer to dry out in between waterings, the seedlings prefer NOT to dry out... so be sure to keep them moist until they have developed a little bulb and a couple of leaves. Once you bump them up in pot size, and they're large enough and old enough to be potted individually, you'll want to begin treating them more like their parents. They will appreciate lots of sun regardless of age.

Congrats! This is your first batch, I take it?

Thanks Jodie my very first amaryllis babies and no labor...Lol

I had no idea what to do next... I can relax now...shoo your the best...Barb

Way to go Barb, now tell me how you did it!
I'm still learning here!
Susan

I'll be hitting you all up for advice when my attempts at pollination take. :-)

There are a couple of different ways to start Hippeastrum seeds... some use the "flotation method", whereby you would float the seeds in a little container of water. Once they sprout and gain their first leaf, you would pot them up in a very moisture retentive medium.

I do it the easy way... I start them directly in soil, just as you'd start any other seed. I keep the medium moist, and I've found that either bottom heat or the warmth of sunshine help the seeds germinate a bit faster. For this method, I use a regular potting mix.

I've found that both methods work to germinate the seeds, but transferring the sprouts to soil from water stresses them out somewhat. This is why I avoid the water method, and start them directly in flats or little pots... no transplant shock. I keep the soil moist until it's time to transfer the little guys to their own pots. Once the little bulbs are about marble sized, I begin to let them dry out a bit more in between waterings.

Yes just like jodie said....I would say wet soil...and heat matt and lights...They were actually very easy...The seeds sent were fresh too and never completely dried out too...Good luck Susan I see you have some real treasures..:) Barb

Last year, I started some seeds directly in a flat, outside... I kept the flat on a slab of warm concrete right in front of my garage, which faces east. Of course, I waited until about the middle of May to start the seeds, due to my climate.

I just kept the soil moist and let the sun do the rest. When late summer arrived, I transplanted the little guys into 2" or 3" group pots, and I brought them inside. Right now, they're under lights in the jungle, and they've grown quite a bit since last year.

Hippeastrums are really easy to grow from seed, and pollinating them is very easy, as well. The flower parts are large enough to work with easily, and the only drawback seems to be having enough patience to grow them from seed to bloom.

Breeding my Hippeastrums has given me the knowledge and courage to try other flowers in my gardens... I bred some Daylilies last summer, and I've got the seedlings growing among my bulbs in the jungle. Daylilies were easy to breed and easy to start from seed... I'm thinking of trying some Irises this coming season!

When I began this whole adventure, I didn't know how fun and rewarding it would be! I didn't know I'd be expanding my plant breeding to include other flower types, but here I am! You guys have got to try it! There's nothing quite so exciting as pollinating a flower, harvesting your own seeds, and then growing them to bloom. The anticipation and the mystery of what you might end up producing is so interesting and exciting!

By next year, I should have blooms from a few youngsters! Even if they're not worthy of mass production or unique in a beautiful way, they'll still be something I had a hand in producing... and that's pretty darn exciting to me!

Yes I think Jodi is right in that they do suffer from the move from water to soil. I lost most of my seedings this season and I put it down to the transplanting shock. I have not tried planting them straight into the soil but I think that's a better way to eliminate the shock.

Jodi I'm sure you'll get some real beauties, you just never know!! Thats the whole fun of it.

Ditto Jodie on what you said...Lol I am growing everyone elses crosses out for them..Lol :) Barb

The time demand until capability of producing a flower scape does crucially depend on the treatment of them seedlings during the WINTER!
Principally diploid seedlings can be brought into bloom with a high prcntage (>50%) after 2 summers.
TETs are a little bit different, because their bulbs in most cases ultimatively need a minimum circumference of 22 cm before they are ready to elongate (rather than simply abort) a scape initiated during the previous summer, and it is wise to plan 3 summers for a box full of TETs before starting a cooling period (55°F) to effectuate the elongation of the preformed scape(s).
But, those winter(s) before the boxes with them seedlings should be positioned at the best (brightest) windowsill, and heating from below (upto 80°F substrate temperature) is warmliest *lol* to be recommended. The seedlings should GROW during the winter, rather than being brought to reposal (55°C) like older, yet bloomable bulbs. IF there is no bright window accessible, then artificial lighting with an installed electric power of upto 200 Watts per square meter of/from good Fluorescent lamps or Metal Halide high pressure discharge lamps should be considered.

I not only allow my seedlings access to the morning sun, I also have lighting above them that takes over when the sun moves away from the window. So, they get plenty of light. They're indoors, and the temperature is never below 70 degrees, so they're kept comfortably warm, and I've noticed that young bulbs don't drop leaves and rest... they keep growing all year.

They're kept in what I'd call very good conditions, though not as optimum as if I had a greenhouse... so, I'd estimate blooms from my oldest seedlings within one or two years more. I'm hopeful, anyway!

Thank you for all the information! That is great knowledge to have.. I do have a gh and will be growing them in it... It will be neat to see how long they actually take from seed...Thanks once again..Barb

jodik,

I too have been bitten by the hippea seed growing bug...I got seeds a couple of years ago from a member and they are now two yr old tots. I recently potted them in individual pots and have them soaking up the Florida sunshine. For the winter since it is mostly mild comparatively I tend to them less frequently and let them do their thing in a warm area out of the breeze. I am so excited to have these lil tots in my garden! I also learned from this member how the hand pollinate. I am now hand pollinating every hippea that blooms in my yard! No telling what I'll get! I do have a ton of my original amys (Minerva) planted by the former Mrs. of the garden and one of my closest friends. She gave me her mom's donkey cart last year ...(mom passed on a year ago)...and I transplanted some bulbs from another area in the yard to the cart and the blooms this year from that cart were the most amazing blooms I have seen in my yard!!

I have shared the seeds with my friend and hope to do seed exchange with others in the exchange forum. Glad to share if you like!

I do have a question from this ramble! I noticed one or two of the pods were still fairly green and they had popped open (was told to let them dry out and pop on their own) but this pod had some greyish looking (I am assuming really fresh or not matured) seeds. What do you think? Glad to share a photo if you'd like to see.

I am so looking forward to gardening this year. I already have veggies growing everywhere...putting in some new attempts this year at different plants...and trying my hand at bulbs other than glads and amys.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I am 7 years into gardening and still feel like a newbie!!

Thanks for letting me ramble!

PS..another link to album from last years garden:

http://picasaweb.google.com/ladyaustin96/July2008Garden

sorry you'll have C&P

Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: Last years amys

Very nice coral colored blooms, Kim!

When the seed pods just begin to split open, I cut the pod off the scape and place it somewhere to dry for a couple of days. Then, I take the seeds out of the pod and store them.

If you're growing and pollinating outdoors, you may have help from flying insects and bees, as well... if you want only your pollinations to work, you can always bag the pollinated flower to keep bees from adding unknown pollen to your breeding.

I'm many, many years into gardening, and it's always a learning experience! That's part of the fun!

A photo would help in showing what you mean by grayish seeds... the pods usually begin to pop open when the seeds are mature, so I'm not sure what you mean... mature seeds are usually dark colored.