Yes I have and burned them even in spring. I eracticated the scale by several dippings on the infected ones in malathon every tens days and started my whole collection on a granular sytemic insectide after that. No more problems.

started my whole collection on a granular sytemic insectide after that. No more problems.

HDD how much granular sytemic insectide do you use per pot and how often?

The type I use is a half teaspoon per 6 inch pot. Onset of spring and onset of fall. The two times a year that scale are starting to crawl. I also found that a couple granules in the cup on infected plants sped up the buggers demise.
*Merit*

Hd is correct in that Meritî will control your scale problem. I use Meritî 2.5G on anything that has a sucking insect problem. It's gentle enough for treatment on Maidenhair fern with exceptional results.

Thanks I will have to check if it is available over here. I have some of a different brand and will try it in the cups of a couple of plants that I have taken pups off.

Sunshine, I've never treated a bromeliad with Merit via the cup method, always in the "soil". What are the drawbacks/benefits of using this method?

Hi everyone,

I just use the recipe for Canola oil spray by Rob Smythe that I mentioned some time back in one of the other posts on this subject. It doesn't cost much to make, doesn't harm me or the skinks that frequent my brom house and garden, but more importantly, it does the job for me!

http://fcbs.org/articles/canola.htm

All the best, Nev.

Gonzer I was going by what HDD said about a couple of grains in the cup. Thats why I would try it on the old mums as I have nothing to lose.

I have used the canola oil spray and I got rid of the fly speck but have another creamy coloured scale that drives me mad as it keeps coming back on certain plants.

Hi Sunshine, what Aussie granular systemic insectide product do you use?

Hi Sunshine qld,

Can you get a pic of this "creamy coloured scale" you speak of so we can all see it.

Just a suggestion; if the Canola Oil spray doesn't work on this particular scale you could try using "Confidor" which is a systemic insecticide with an active constituent of IMIDACLOPRID.

It is important that the underside of the leaves are treated as well as the top and I find the best way to do this and avoid spray drift is to put the pot in a plastic shopping bag and tie it firmly over the top of the surface of the potting mix so that the mix can't fall out when the pot is inverted.

Mix up sufficient insecticide in a bucket so you can tip the whole plant upside down and give the foliage a good dunking.

Usually one treatment is enough. When the scale are dead, hose off and remove any stubborn ones with an old tooth brush.

All the best, Nev.

Nev the oil treatment got rid of the scale but it came back after a time. I will get a pic tomorrow.

Here is the scale. It is easy to rub off.
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It doesn't appear to effect all plants as I can have 2 sitting side by side and one plant will be clean.

Hi Sunshine,
This scale was mainly seen on bromeliads that have little air circulation.
Last year it seemed to affect bromeliads all down the coast, regardless of air circulation.
It washes of with soapy water. It will be killed by scale sprays. It does leave marks on the plants where the insect sucks the nutrition from the plant.
The granular in Oz is Disulphotin.
If you put it in the cup, be sure you add water. Be sparing or you will kill the plant. Lynn

Gonzer thats why I said a couple granules(they are size of salt)so you dont OD the plants per the recommended amount by the mfg. I talked with them about this cup method, they said on a systemic like Merit it does not matter how they uptake the insecticide as long as its not over the recommended rate. And of course water must be in the cups before you add the granules. How else would the plant take it into there system? I have done this on many plants when I first start them on the preventative with no problems. I didnt realize when I wrote the post I would leave so much to chance. Also do not put the granules in a pup with no roots.
The light brown scales will also attack older plants especially after blooming if they have no systemic protection.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Hi everyone,

As HDD says, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure", and this should be remembered when you are trying to squeeze that extra plant into your collection.

One of the most common causes for this type of scale in my area is overcrowding, something we've all done from time to time. The old saying we've often gone by which says, "there's always room for one more plant" is true to a certain extent, but overcrowding will restrict air circulation and create a good breeding ground for this type of scale.

The best prevention is to increase the space between plants and let them breathe.

All the best, Nev.

I have probably squeezed too many plants in but have now doubled the size of my shade house [ nearly finished] so will give them all a good spray as I set them out.

Lyn I put 3 grains in the cup that I have a couple of plants of the same in the shade house. Another one I mixed about a dozen grains in the soil. Will see what happens.
Usually when I have taken the pups off I put the old plant in the garden and the scale dissappears. Better air circulation.

Great thank you Lynn! I have been after that name for ages, but no one knew of it.

I suffered badly from a collection wide scale attack when my bromeliad-addiction-to-get-one-of-everything kicked in and had to squash them all intogether - too closely. But I also built more space and now spread them out, well better than they were.

I had to pull out the big guns initially and spray all with Rogor. I have done it three times over 2 years, and am now 99.9% free. But I do not want to use Rogor anymore. It is too harsh on bees and other good critters.

I use Clensel now (MUCH more enviro friendly) on any new plants I bring into my collection. And I may use a few granules of this stuff when potting offsets in future.

It's the variegated Neos that mostly suffer in my collection and Ae chantinii - well they are a scale magnet in my area. Neo carcharodon hybrids are fine as are Vriesea - well for me, and thank goodness for that!

Thanks again Lynn.

Cool HD, thanks!