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the_man_fern

VFT and insecticide

20 years ago

hiya

my VFT i have just brought in under my lamp is growing like wildfire!

but one slight problem it has brought Aphids in with it!!!

now being in the damn EU there is barely any pesticides available to me

i DO have some Malathion left over will this hurt the plant?

or i have another spray which used bifenthrin (sp) as its active agent is this better than the previous?

thanks

jamie

Comments (12)

  • 20 years ago

    Dont use Aerosol spray cans (the propelants) any that has soap or alkaline things in them, When ever possible go for powders. Just a few Kinds that work-
    Diazinon, Fea colars (just not on the soil) Malathion, Orthene, Sevin, and slug poisioning (not on the soil). Try to reduce getting this stuff on the soil to minimal.

    Cheers

  • 20 years ago

    Hmmmmm. Would something like this work......?

    Put a flea collar in a plastic bag then place the plant in the same bag and tie the bag closed for a day thus keeping the fumes inside the bag making a mini-gas chamber to kill the insects? ........or would the VFT not like that kind of treatment?

    3DChick :-)

  • 20 years ago

    They collar and soil Shouldnt Touch each other, and i think that might harm the plant dont know how it would handle that. Another easy method is submersing the plant over night. in water, pot and all just make sure you have something holding the soil down (like a paper towel or like plastic or something.

    Cheers

  • 20 years ago

    Another effective way to get rid of aphids is to submerge the whole plant in distilled or rain water for a 24 hour period. The aphids will drown and the VFT won't mind the little dip at all.

  • 20 years ago

    ok everyone
    thanks for your help
    i will try the sunmersing method as i am always keel to avoid chemicals where ever possible (i have cats)

  • 20 years ago

    why did you just bring your VFT inside and put it under a lamp?

  • 20 years ago

    I have had 100% success with what saraceniahunter described. Seems my tropical sundews (adelae, capensis, and spatulata) were the only ones affected, but putting the whole pot in a larger, plastic container, fully submerged, for as long as 2 weeks (which was overkill), did the trick. The aphids never re-infected or spread. The plants, themselves, looked like "drowned rats", but recovered nicely in a few weeks. If I can avoid chemicals, I will.

  • 20 years ago

    I brought them inside because i want to LOL
    i want them in my grow room not in my garden where i never go
    let alone look after plants
    they will only go out there in september as it starts to cool down for the dormancy :)they are doing brilliantly btw no need for insects i fertilized the leaves with a q tip and full strenth orchid fertilizer and te plant has grow about 4 traps in three days and the veins are bright red.
    i love doing things people say you cannot do because i find that there is always a way to do anything.
    last year the told me 'you cannot grow a tree fern indoors it will die!' well i Have grown a tree fern indoors and its leaves are about 6 foot long!
    i am a pusher :)

    i am definatly going to try the submersion method immedietly
    thanks
    sorry for bending your ears

  • 20 years ago

    Hey, I have the same mentality! Several years ago our toliet developed a leak. I tried many things to fix it and got tired of changing a buckey to catch the water. finally, I got a friend to come over to help with it. After 3 unsuccessful attempts to locate and fix, we got it right. However....in the process of putting things back together again, the tank slipped from his hands and crashed into the back of the seat, taking out a couple chunks, right where the bolts go, for the seat. I tried a bunch more things and nothing kept it all in place. I called a variety of hardware and other stores and they all said to just get a new toilet. So naturally, Ihad to find my own solution. Adhesives weren't working. But I came up with this idea to buy and cut out metal flashing to accommodate the bolts and I epoxied the broken pieces. Then I bought 2 bungy cords and wrapped them around the perimeter of the bowl, taking care of the X & Y axes. And lastly, I connected a shoelace from the J- trap to the bungy cords, keeping the bungy cord from slipping (Z - axis). Now that didn't exactly have much in the way of aesthetic appeal - but it worked. And it continued to work for 6 months - until my wife worked out a deal in secret with a friend to help us out with buying a new toilet.

    I have this Marty McFly, "nobody calls me yellow" 'tude!

    Hey, good skill with yur aphids!

  • 20 years ago

    I haven't had any problems using malathion on carnivorous plants. Drosera often won't like it but then again Droseara really don't like being sprayed with anything. Personally, I use organophosphates when I need to bring out the big guns: scale, mealy bug, spider mites, etc. Aphids, though prolific, are pretty easy to kill. Malathion is kind of overkill for aphids and, given it's toxicity, is probably best avoided unless necessary (especially for indoor use). The drowning method works if you don't have a large collection. Otherwise, a few successive sprays with pyrethrin (commercial or home made) clears them up and is fairly innocuous. Bifenthrin is a synthetic pyrethroid but I haven't used it so I can't comment on it's affect on the health of your VFT or you compared to pyrethrin.

  • 20 years ago

    Can companion plants like marigolds and crysanthemums be placed around them as well? Marigolds are naturally abhorant to many critters and mums are natural producers of Pyrethrum.

  • 20 years ago

    i doo have a pot mum in my plant collection

    i however havedone the subersion method overnight last night and the are all gone

    i will do it again next week to kill off any hatchlings thanks everyone for your help and tips :)

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