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sandysseeds007

Root ball size for overwintering?

19 years ago

I know technodweeb and others are wondering the same thing,

what's the appropriate root ball size for overwintering those brugs we have in the ground?

The best I can come up with is to dig around as wide as possible and gently lift loose from the soil with shovel. Then chisel away the dirt around the outside so as to find where most of the roots are, but more importantly to find where the main fat roots are. Then I'm supposing I can remove as much dirt from the rest of the main root ball and still keep the longer fatter roots dangling around.

I'd personally like to just stick this in tripled up plastic shopping bags or those indoor white glad garbage bags, keeping as much stalk as possible still attached so the roots can feed off of it's own stalk should that cup of water not be sufficient enough.

I reason this only because my big water bottles wouldn't even hold the root ball I believe? should be kept with the amount of stalk I want to keep alive/asleep. I'd have to go out and buy indoor garbage pails or those huge planters that some use for patio trees.

Any cheap alternatives, warnings or advice would be greatly appreciated, I'm sure by many.

Happy Gardening - Sandy

PS. NEVER PICK A TREE OR A BUSH UP BY IT'S STALK WHEN ATTACHED TO A ROOT BALL. The weight of dirt will only tear the roots away from the stalk. PICK UP ONLY BY THE ROOT BALL!! Flip potted plants upside down if small enough.

Comments (5)

  • 19 years ago

    I can only tell you what has worked for me:

    I dig up enough rootball and chop off the excess so that a 6+ footer can fit easily into about a 7-gal black plastic nursery pot, the spaces are filled in with peat moss.

    x

  • 19 years ago

    Hi xerophyte, Just how wide across and how deep is a 7-gal pot? I've only got the size of the 2-gal in memory.

    I like that peat moss idea. I know that peat moss really won't absorb water quicker than the surrounding soil if it's allowed to dry right out.

    Example, dried peat pellet (that's been expanded with water prior to re-drying out) put in pot surrounded with soil of any kind, ok, maybe not clay, and water. Watch where the water gets absorbed. I will never use peat pellets for seedlings again for this reason - I don't care to have to baby a plant to be sure it stays moist around the most important part of a plant. It also compresses the roots and stunts their growth if you have to top water.

    Of course if it's on the outside of the rootball, it would serve us to keep the water where we want it.

    If I were to use a pot, rather than plastic bags of some sort, I guess I'll be lining the bottom with peat moss of whatever container I use and let it dry. Then put the plant in and stuff the sides up. I guess I'd do that with the bag idea to.

    Thanks for the idea xero...

    Warning to those who read this thread... Although there's a minimal of watering going on in the overwintering process, about a cup a month so I read, I have absolutely no idea how toxic plastic bags of any kind can be for a plant should any decomping of the plastic take place...which I seriously doubt would even occur with so infrequent a small watering, especially during a dormant period where the roots shouldn't be growing. I'd still feel better if they made bigger freezer bags...sigh... If I stick with bags it'll be the all so ever tough Glad bag...as I'd have to stuff it enough with dry peat moss or dirt if need be, as we wouldn't want too much air or space (for the water to get by) around those roots.

    The bag cannot be sealed up around the stalk, let at least some air at the surface otherwise fungus/mold can develop, or is that...will develop. Plant's roots do require a tiny bit of air, just don't know how much in a dormant state. Any input?

    Thanks - Sandy

    Please don't confuse our value of peat moss for holding water where we want it in a well saturated garden so we can water less frequently, with what opposite purpose I'm suggesting to use it for. So the saying goes, peat moss in your garden soil makes your soil alive. The key word is saturate...so the peat moss will hold the water where you want it for longer periods of time. Peace!!! ;)

  • 19 years ago

    7-gal is about 15" wide and deep I think.

    The only reason I use peat moss is because it is light and cheap, and fills in the gaps nicely. It is difficult to rewet in the spring, but adding some liquid soap to the water makes it penetrate much more easily. I'd bet the rootball would do just fine without adding anything, I do it just to be safe. I don't even bother putting some into the bottom of the pot first.

    A garbage bag would work just as well, you can prop up the plants in a big cardboard box. I store my bananas in garbage bags laying against the floor...I don't do that with the Brugs because their branches are not flat and would take up too much room on the floor.

    The reason Brugs survive dry dormancy is because their larger roots are starchy and there is enough carbs in them to push out some leaves in the spring before photosynthesis takes over. The fine roots most likely die so when you water a dormant plant the moisture just sits there and leads to rot.

    When I dig up a rootball, there is some garden soil along with it, so there is always a tiny amount of moisture present to keep the starchy roots from total dessication. Watering should be just enough to raise the humidity. In a bag, there is no ventilation so in my opinion is riskier but if you periodically open it up a spritz a little water into them to raise humidity you will be successful.

  • 19 years ago

    Your a great help xero! Thank you for spending the time to clue us in ! Sincerely Sandy

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks Xero. Great info.

    Looking forward to these being in the ground next year. Cutting OR lifting.

    Depending on how many I have in the coming years, may not lift all, just cut and leave bottom to freeze. Now I know what to look for when you dig them up!

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