The plant looks healthy. Keep it watered, let it dry a bit, then water again.

When I grow the pot outdoor, I put in in bright shade, never in full sun. Some leaves got burned in full sun. When indoor, I have the bamboo shade on and the plant gets only filtered sun, again no direct sun.

I had my plant for about 5 years, never any bloom. Last year, when I re-potted the plant, I found a lot of dead roots near the pot. So I cut off the dead roots and settle the plant in the same pot. The next summer, it bloomed. Then in the fall, it sent several baby plants. I cut off the babies. The mother plant still bloomed again this summer, but smaller since it lost more than half of the roots.

All the baby plants are just like yours, still very green, but no growth at all. I may put in a fertilizer stick, or just wait....

Just saw this post. I don't remember what advice I gave about how deep to plant, but I like seeing the base of the plant with roots showing, especially if I've had problems with root rot on a particular plant. I don't know if you are still following the same practices or if things are still going well. In general, I would recommend less sun, heat and water, and more regular fertilizing. Your plant is still juvenile, so I would try to keep it growing for another year. And then, if it has gained some size and another four leaves, you could give it a cool (under 50 degrees F, if possible) dry period for about two months in late fall. That might bring on flowering. I grow my clivias in gritty mix and water only when the mix is very dry. For young plants, that might be every two weeks. A mature plant in a 2-3 gallon pot can go a month between waterings. In my experience, clivias in pots need to be fertized every time I water them. I use a controlled release fertilizer in the potting mix and Foliage Pro 9-3-6 with every watering.

I keep clivias potbound and dry in winter(just a splash of water monthly and never fertilize them. They bloom faithfully on the patio each summer.

Grace, If you don't keep the plant oriented to the sun exactly the same way every time you move it, the leaves will "corkscrew". Doesn't hurt the plant, just doesn't look quite as nice as a symmetrical plant. I grow mine in winter in a southeast facing window, and if I give someone a mature plant I mark the pot to indicate the direction toward the window. If possible I recommend the new owners orient that mark to the SE. That usually minimizes the leaf disorientation.

Bill

bill could you post a picture of which direction you face the plant toward the light? do you go side to side or end for end? does that question make sense? :)

su

Yep, that question makes sense, I'm just not sure I know what side to side or end to end is.....☺ And if I did, I'm not sure I could put it in words that would make sense to anybody but me.

Lets try a photo, someone once told me they were worth 1000 words.

Here is the smaller of my two original plants. The window you see on the left is a 4X6 foot plate glass: one of three. Looking straight out the window you are looking generally south east. As you see, the leaves from one side of the plant point straight toward the window, and the other side away from the window. I do not even bother to reverse the pot. I once gave this placement some thought, and convinced myself that if I turned the plant 90 degrees in either direction that the crown might begin to lean towards the light. I never tried it to prove my point to myself, but I have never had any problem growing the plants oriented this way, and my philosophy is that if is not "broken", don't fix it.......My wife hates that, but that's what she got the day she said "I do".

Hope this helps.

Bill

Oooh... I'm seeing what my problem was. I was keeping my plants side to side in front of the window... and it is "pinwheeling" like crazy. I guess the correct term would be parallel? But you have your plant at a right angle to the light source. Correct? I think those terms are right. Been a long time since high school! :-P