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tom17_gw

Calamondin Having Problems

15 years ago

Hi folks. I'm new to the forum and could use some advise.

I've been growing a calamondin in a container for 13 years now. I live in Central NJ, so I keep it outside in a sunny spot on my deck from April to November and bring it inside from Nov. to April. While it's outside, I water once a day; while inside, I only water once a week. Even for a novice like me, this has worked out quite well. The plant is over 6 feet tall now and usually blooms 2-3 times a year.

I usually see some leaf drop when I initially bring the plant inside, then things usually stabilize. This year, leave drop initially was less than normal and things were looking good until early Feb. Since then, a large amount of leaves have begun to turn yellow and drop (especially after watering). In the past week or so, they have begun to curl inward as well.

I only have to keep it indoors for another 3 weeks or so.

Once outside, it usually kicks out lots of new growth. Any ideas as to what the problem may be?

Comments (14)

  • 15 years ago

    Possible root rot?

    If they turn yellow and drop especially after a watering, and if the leaves are curling despite watering, then those roots desperate. If the curl of dehydration, it is still dying in a sea of plenty water.

    There are many factors as to why a tree will all of a sudden suffer root rot, starting with environmental factors that year all the way to compacted soil mixes after long periods without a re-potting.

    Have you used a stick, wooden dowel to check and see if the roots have stopped taking up water?

    have you checked for pest invasion now that the tree has been in a weakened state.

    Please let us know. Tell us how long it takes before the mix dries out by using a wooden dowel.

    Welcome here and I hope you catch the rot before it is too late. If you start seeing branch die back, then it is almost guaranteed to be root related.

    Mike

  • 15 years ago

    Don and Mike,

    Thanks for responding. I don't think it's root rot, since I lifted the plant out of the pot and it didn't have any foul odor or visible signs of rot. No sign of pest infestation either.

    I repotted the plant right before I brought it inside last November. It is now in a 15 inch tapered terra cotta pot which is narrower at the bottom, wider at the top, and not as tall as compared to the previous pot. Don's comment was right on. This plant has very little loose soil left in the rootball. When I water it, it seems like the capacity of the pot now is much less (I stop watering when water begins to trickle into the drip pan). Right now, it takes less than 1 qt. vs 2 qts. in the old pot. The rootball itself is dry again in a day or two. The leaves are not turning yellow any more. They are staying green and curling up. Some leaves are drying out and falling off. I'm starting to think that it's not getting enough water.
    But that doesn't explain why it drops more leaves after watering.

  • 15 years ago

    Hi Tim

    If the leaves are curling up while GREEN, in my experience it is usulally due to under watering and dry root ball conditions as Don had pointed out, or spider mites and or some other form of pest.

    You through me off when you said that the leaves were turning yellow and then fall off.
    Usually when citrus in a container is starved for a watering, any leaves will fall off before they even have a chance to turn yellow if not caught in time.
    If you wait until you see NEW flushing growth wilt, you can usually catch it on time.
    But if there is no new growth and you can not judge when your tree is at that wilt point, usually one can say good bye to a majority of the green leaves. Ponderosa are notorious for this.

    I would also check for spider mites since they are notorious for attacking weak trees especially at this time of the year.
    I would use a magnifying glass since they are naked to the eye. Stare at anything in one spot under the youngest leaves that looks like a tiny flake or tiny bumb for a while for slight movement.

    When the leaves yellow and then fall, pest and usually irregular watering or over watering are the culprits.

    Good luck with your tree and let us know how it goes.
    They are like babies! Once you get to know their personal needs, that is the ones in your care, you be able to cruise right along and they stop crying for your attention.:-)

    Hi Don!

    Pray for some warm weather will you. It will feel like February for the next 3 days.:-(
    My trees are just dying to go outside.

  • 15 years ago

    Pics please =) It makes it much easier to help out. Pics of the leaves while still attached, some that have fallen, and even the rootball. The more the merrier!

    Good luck to ya,

  • 11 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago


    My 50 year old calamondin has developed a rusty look on some leaves. I have another tree the same age without the problem. Does anyone have any advice on what to do ? The trees are outside on a sunny deck for the summer and usually do well there. This tree had aphids inside in the winter. See pics. Thank you.

  • 11 years ago

    Did you forget to post the pictures

  • 11 years ago

    Just was able to add one pic. Wouldn't upload earlier and only one now. Thx.

  • 10 years ago

    Hello guys! Glad to find this discussion. I have calamondin (calamnsi) trees and they're curling up in all direction while still green.

  • 10 years ago

    Please advice on calamondin. It was blooming and bearing fruits all fall indoors here in NC,then it started losing leaves until all have fallen. I pruned the dried branches, repotted,fertilized. It continues to dry up. I brought it out 2 weeks ago when i repotted and have brought it back indoors because of the cold weather this weekend. Please help.

  • 8 years ago

    my calamansi tree is falling leaves ,and looks like it's dying,what am i suppose to do?

  • 8 years ago

    Picture?? And maybe start a new thread?

  • 8 years ago

    The soil should be kept moist and consistently watered. If it's in a larger container that means more soil and root space, so the plant does not require being watered as frequently, and in general will be more robust/resilient. Does the plant have enough light, and are the temperatures it's subjected to too cold (even inside, temperatures can often get too cold for citrus during the Winter). If the plant is being heated inside, humidity is a concern, it can be easy for the leaves to dry out. Pretty much all those are the basics. Then you can move into issues like fertilizer.

    I will also point out that starting off with the right type of soil is important, specifically how that soil is going to deal with water. Will it retain moisture well? Cheap garden soil may just be finely ground lightweight mulch and not hold water well. But you may also want the soil to be able to drain.

  • 8 years ago

    You are good parker, I could not have done it with such minimal info and no a picture.

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