A couple of suggestions: pull the mulch away from any contact with the trunk of your plant. That's how rot gets started. Also, it appears that you're watering a very small portion of the root/soil system around your plant. That might end up being very limiting to growth and development.

What's going on at the base of the trunk? It looks odd, but it might just be the image. Has there been something munching on the leaves?

About the screen. If you use window screen over your plant, you WILL be limiting the sun.

I think I should add that if your plant has been inside or in a shady location, then you should probably introduce it to hot and sunny conditions gradually. Other than that, there's no reason why citrus shouldn't be ok in the heat.

When I put the mulch down I try to keep it at least 3" from the trunk. But even with the netting around it the Prairie Dogs still manage to get in there to cool off after watering. That's sluminum foil around the base of the trunk to help protect the bud union from critters. The dead leaves are from an African Sumac nearby. The orange tree leaves were being eaten by Leafcutter Bees, but spraying liquid Garlic on them hopefully will stop that. The tree has been in the ground since March 14 and was never inside or in shade. The dark brown circle in the soil is where the water seeps to after 2 hours of slow soaking so I'm pretty sure the root ball is getting the moisture. Most of the leaves now are wrinkled, but after about 2-3 days 3/4 of them are drooping from lack of water. What's an early sign of root rot besides the leaves turning brown?

I planted a Eureka lemon tree on the southwest end of or backyard two years ago. I was afraid the intense summer afternoon sun would kill it so I hung a piece of burlap over it. We have irrigation once every two weeks in the summer and I water it in between. The flowers fall off without producing fruit, the leaves are not deep green and are sparse.
Is the burlap doing more harm than good? Should I remove it now or wait until the temp goes down below 100 degrees (October)?

The burlap might be too thick for enough light to get through. I'm building a 3' square framework to install an 80% sunscreen. In the winter I can remove the screen and use plexiglass against the frost.

Norwood, I think you're doing a thorough job. Gotta keep the wildlife away or else..
Will the screen prevent light? If so, what percentage? It looks pretty bright, and with 100F temps, I can see why you'd prefer a cooler environment for your citrus. Good luck, Toni
PS, Love your Post Name..Maybe it's time to get her a spouse..lol.

What's an 80% screen. Is that something I can find at Home Depot or Lowes?

I think your only problem will be moisture but certainly not the heat. The summer days in the Florida citrus belt are in the high 90s almost every day and the groves in full sun. The rows of citrus grow for miles and miles along the turnpike. I do see some overhead irrigataion assemblies in some groves.

This sunscreen holds back 80% of the heat but lets all the light through. I also have them on my windows on the house. I got it at Ace Hardware, 3' square and framed for $21.95. I'm using half the water I used before and the tree looks alot better. If you can find it! :)

The T-posts enable me to slide the screen in from the side along with a plexiglass top and sides for the winter. I have one piece of plexiglass facing SW for our 40 mph 'breezes'.

The lowest high temp forcast for the next 7 days is 106F. I've seen the Orange Groves along the Sunshine Turpike from a semi, but the humidity helps the groves. Here we have a saying on most tourists souvenirs, "But it's a DRY heat"!

{{gwi:595885}}