Joe Real (one of the contributors here) said that persimmons are not a good candidate for grafting or budding but prefferably marcotting or air layering is better.

Both the native Persimon (D. virginiana) and the Oriental (D. Kaki) are usually propagated by grafting or bud grafting. The named cultivars can be grafted on wild seedlings of D. virginiana or D kaki. Clef grafting is usually the most sucessful on Oriental varieties. Newly grafted trees can be moved to their permanent location after the graft has grown for a season. Larger trees (such as your friends) should have their taproot cut off a foot or so below the surface of the soil a year before moving, to encourage side root growth. Good Luck. - Millet

We chip bud onto D. virginiana stock, usually in October, when the rootstock leaves have turned red but before they drop. Using a very shallow chip (mostly bark, just a very thin sliver of wood) we approach 95% success, most years. Buds are left wrapped until spring, and the rootstock top is cut off at the time the wraps are removed.

I just IDed native persimmon in my back yard, if you need any seeds for rootstock!

This is a test. For more than 5 days I can not read any input here.

I have had good luck with persimmon grafting by chip budding, t-budding, whip/tongue, and bark graft. I had about 80% success.

Here is a link that might be useful: mrtexas

It used to be very hard to graft persimmons for me, what I thought of very low success turned out to be high after all, when the after care was done properly. Will explain more on this below.

The secret to successfully grafting persimmons is the timing. You will have to wait after the first leaf out during spring time when you do your graft. This is the best timing for me. Do not graft when the tree is dormant, nor just starting budswell, but wait until a small leaf is fully open on that branch that you are going to graft. Almost any type of grafting worked for me. Budding, tongue and whip, cleft and bark grafting. I love to do a combo of budding and bark grafting on a persimmon branch. With bark grafting, make sure to have a very long and large surface contact between the scionwood and the stock. I would then proceed to bud a scionwood about 4 inches below the bark graft. This combo has worked for me that I can add a variety with almost 100% certainty. If the bark graft fails, for sure the bud will grow, but oftentimes, both grows properly at the same time.

The biggest mistake that I made was the after care. You will have to vigilantly remove all of the sprouts from the stock tree after you graft. I did not do this and my buds and my grafts did not sprout and I thought they were goners. But then a year late, I removed those sprouts and was surprised that my year old buds and graft grew and were not a failure all the while. So be sure to constantly remove any sprouts on the grafted branch aside from your scionwood.

You will note that the October budding is in central Florida. Like the post from California, I have been told that timing (season) is important for persimmons. Apparently they need relatively warm weather to grow the stock and graft or bud together. Many fruits will stand grafting in colder months, but apparently not persimmon.

Another tip if you are doing the tongue and whip, bark or cleft grafting: You will have to cover the scionwood entirely with grafting sealing paint after the grafting operation, ie, Doc Farwell's heal and seal paint. Another method is to wrap the whole thing in plastic saran wrap, but don't forget to remove it as soon as you see the buds starting to push out. Still another method is to cover the scionwood with grafting tape either before or after the grafting operation. If you keep the scionwood from drying out during the healing process, and that along with the timing and aftercare, you should get near 100% take.

would it be possible to root a cutting? my aunt has a wonderful persimmon with huge persimmons on it. and I have the opportunity to get some wood next week. it will be from Louisiana. Going to do a plant exchange. would like to get a start off her laurel tree too.. hate to be OT here.. but I trust y'alls info...
feel free to e-mail me regarding the laurel tree or persimmon..

thanks for any info..
Gina *BabyBlue*
babyblue11371@hotmail.com

Persimmons are very very hard to root or grow from root cutting

My own several years in a row experience in Brooklyn, NY says grafting persimmon is almost impossible. I'm talking about to graft Fuya or Hachiya on American Persimmon ( minus 40F). Indeed I made a mistake to buy American Persimmon instead of Asian version. Now I cannot cut my 5 years old and 10 ft long and 9 ft wide mature tree just because it does not bring fruits. I try to graft it. I don't understand what wrong I'm doing each year. I have tried everything and in different time : green-to green, wood-to-wood, bud-to-wood, bud-to-green. I've tried to root wood cuttings: several times I've seen leafs but they were fallen finally and no roots were developed regardless of what kind of rooting hormone I have used. People, I'm really tired and angry. I live in zone 5a that means October grafting is not for me. Apple I can graft 5-7 varieties on one stock but persimmon ......... What is wrong with that tree ? Would appreciate for any PROFESSIONAL advise, utube or any written instructions to read about successful grafting of the persimmon.