hi,im new to figs and i would like to know how you root them,i thought the problem was keeping them moist overwatering.also i heard you need to use vermiculite or perlite.
thanks

Giuseppe,
I have also learned that lesson about over watering. I now restrict the watering much more. I think back to one of Al's postings where he quoted someone as characterizing it something like "wait until they are completely dry, and water one day earlier" - kind of illustrates the point. I know my results have improved by holding back longer. Also, someone mentioned using a popsicle stick to test the soil. If it comes out dry, water otherwise wait another day.

statics,
i never used vermiculite or perlite,but i have used
potting soil in the past with good results.Fig cuttings are easy to root,for me the problem is always benn keeping
them healty untill the midle of May or so .Cuttings need to stay away from direct sun light,but need a warm place
and good light,bottom heat also good for them.Ciao,Giuseppe

Giuseppe mentioned "bottom heat also good for them" while referring to rooted cuttings. That is not what many have observed. Bottom heat is good to initiate callus and roots and once rooting has started, it is better to remove the bottom heat or remove the cuttings from the bottom heat. Leaving it on the heat mat too long after rooting cause damage to the roots eventually killing the newly rooted plant. Many root their cuttings even without heat mat so the proper use of heat mat is for expediting initiation of the callus and roots.

I fully agree with Ottawan. After good roots are showing, remove from bottom heat. Ambient temperature conditions after that should be sufficient. Continued bottom heat will accelerate root rot or drying.

Ciao, I have always rooted my cuttings in very warm atmosphere. I never used bottom heat, but I always keep them warm, between 75-80 degrees, they always seem to like the warmth when they are rooting out. This has just always been what I was told and what I found out on my own to be very beneficial. Even after they root and I just pot them up in potting soil directly after they root I keep very warm, i don't use the verm or Perl. They have always thrived, Funny how we all have such different ways to do things, and with the different ways, so many of us are so successful either way! that just proves what resilient and strong Fig trees are. I am glad Giuseppe that you had alot of luck with yours, I also have had success in 99.9 % of my cuttings this season. Ciao

how do you check for roots,pull it out of the soil?

Staticx
it benefits to use clear plastic type cup for first transplant out of new rooting stage and then you can see the progress and health of the roots.

Ottawan,
i do agree that bottom heat is good for cuttings ,and
after good roots have emerged it is a good idea to remove
the bottom heat.I also water my cuttings by using not very cold water.Ciao,Giuseppe

Best thing to do...
Keep a notebook of what you do and then, if it isn't broken don't fix it.
In years past, I would try a lot of different rooting media and the one thing in common, 90% would rot.
Being in the cool maritime Northwest, makes for great fungus development, but figs have an uphill fight.
Our issues are hardly the same as the New England Coast, or Arizona or South Carolina.
We are short on heat, and figs need some heat to form roots. Once the figs are rooted, many thrive up here, in our 60 degree T shirt weather of almost warm.
Resist the temptation to over water. I think that is the major reason for failure.
One other thing I'm trying this season is misting my cuttings with a weak clorox solution "1 tsp/ quart spray bottle".

I have observed the same as Boizeau regarding watering. I have started limiting the water in rooting media and when potted. I supplement with some misting. The cuttings seem to be growing better under these conditions.

Hi Maggie,
your way of rooting cuttings is one of the best,
is always fun to see those cuttings develope roots
and leaves ,and eventually deliciou figs.Ciao ,Giuseppe

I've also found that if you think you should water, wait one more day unless the soil is bone dry. Giving a little dry time between watering seems to help speed root development. Mine are started on a heat bed. Once I see roots at the sides of the container, they get moved to the lower shelf with just lights. It's a method that seems to work for me.

Token,

That's exactly what I do also and agree that results are good.