Would it not be simpler to take a saw and cut the boards down closer to the new ground level? Why not then buy some stones (pavers) and edge the beds with that to kind of hide the boards?

Might cost a little more but it might be easier to do than lifting all the plants up.

Can you post a picture of your problem?

Brenda

I agree with Brenda, but if you just need to add an inch or two, you could do it slowly (1/2" at a time) and I don't think any of your perennials would care. Except irises and peonies which are picky about their depth, I think you would need to lift those.

Personally I don't think an inch or two of soil on top would cause harm. Any more, possibly. I mean, just because I planted bulbs 4 inches deep three years ago doesn't mean they are still exactly 4 inches deep in the soil - sometimes the soil is worked in spring or compost is added, etc.

If you are worried, maybe leave a small circle around some plants where you don't raise the soil? Normally that might encourage water to pool around those plants in heavy rain storms, but raised beds usually drain great and are on the dry side anyways.

Though maybe think about raising some of the more "depth sensitive plants" like peony and iris.

Glen

So, you're only adding soil for aesthetics, right? All plants are happy the way they're planted?

Why not add mulch instead? Looks good, retains moisture, helps with weeds, and eventually breaks down.

Yes, I think Pudge has a great idea of adding a few inches of mulch to add the height you're wanting. Just don't add any right around the peonies, irises and even daylilies don't like to be too deep.

This isn't a problem but an opportunity to top dress with some good compost. I'd wait about another 2 weeks and and plants are up another 4 to 6 incehes and then add compost and, as stated above, some mulch on top of that.

I've purposely added layers of garden ties to tops of garden bed borders so i could build up beds another few inches. Most of your plants won't even hiccup. One exception is the Iris. They will need to be lifted so the corms are exposed...but this won't bother them in the least if done in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks for all your thoughts on this.
Here's a picture, but it doesn't really show the unevenness of the dirt very well, but maybe it gives you the idea.

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Brenda, I think it would be just as much work to cut the boards down as to bring in more dirt/mulch. The boards are 1x6 layed down but standing up on their sides and already screwed into 2x4 corner pegs that are pounded into the ground. And stone is wonderful and permanent, but I have a bunch of 1x6 here and its just cheaper and easier on the back. Thanks for the idea though. :^)

So adding up all the comments here, I think what I will do is level what dirt is there then add mulch and compost. My only compost is well rotted manure and my only mulch on hand is raked leaves and grass clippings (I live a long ways from civilization so I try to use what's handy). Maybe a good mix of the two in order to dilute the manure so it doesn't burn anything, and the manure might help the leaves from blowing away? It will also be lighter and easier on the back than dirt...a must for gardening longevity! :^)

As far as plants I'll make sure iris's, daylilies and peony's are the right depth...what is the consensus on lilies?

Thanks a bunch, Toots :^)

Toots, if the manure you're using is well rotted, it shouldn't burn any of the plants. I put manure that is about 20 years old, 5" or 6" deep on some new beds and planted straight into it and the plants love it. I think the lilies should be ok. They don't mind being deep, and if they don't like their new position, I've heard that they'll move themselves up(or down) with the roots along their stems.

Thanks Laurie.
Good to know how much manure others have added and its been ok. I'm always over cautious. I've had foiliage turn reddish and I get spooked, even though they grow green after a while. My pile of manure should be at least 10 years old.