I'm not Lou and don't want to jump on his answer to you, Glenn, but I also took his suggestion on rooting and had a number of cuttings respond the way yours did (I also buried mine completely). If there are roots, the leaves tend to come in their own time, so just keep it moist enough and watch for them. My tough question is how to transfer my horizontal cuttings at the right time into something better for growing than the shallow, smallish containers I started them in, and am waiting for the plants to get more vigorous before I mess with them (I used a medley of whatever plastic containers I had on hand). Lou will probably have some helpful clues when he has a chance to respond.

My apologies - when I place a cutting into the mixture I always leave about 1/3 to 1/4 of the branch exposed. And, I have to admit that I don't really know if it makes any difference, but that is what has worked for me.
Sometimes the roots start first, sometimes the green buds start first, and, you guessed it, sometimes they start together. I think Sherry had the answer, just be patient. And remember, there is NO ONE SINGLE BEST WAY for every situation. I do remember one instance when a cutting rooted beautifully, and never developed a green bud. It just rotted away.
I figure the cuttings are ready to be transplanted when they have lots of visible roots and at least one unfolded leaf. I start adding water to the container and swish (how's that for technical talk?) it like I was panning for gold. The idea, of course, is to rinse out the propagation material and leave the cutting bare. If you are gentle you will not break too many roots. Sometimes you will find roots and buds growing out of various places on the branch - these can be cut and potted seperately as long as you have roots and bud growth on each piece. In fact, since they should probably be layed down horizontally in their new container, it makes sense to have them as short as possible.
The roots are going to be really long, and vulnerable. Treat them as gently as possible, and get them covered with damp potting material as quickly as possible.
This horizontal method was suggested to me by Gene_washdc. I had tried several methods and had nothing but dismal failure. I happened to have the particular containers on hand because I was raising caterpillars. There is nothing esoteric about them, or brilliant about my method. If you want brilliance go to Gene, Herman, gorgi, yadda, mountainman, Tapla, or a host of others found on this forum.....Elder (Lou)

No apology needed Lou; I just wasn't clear on whether I should have left one end of the cutting exposed. Right now it looks like I'm ahead in the game, as I do have some rooting and may get some to transplant in a couple more weeks. If it fails I'll just stop back by when I'm in the area and take more cuttings...

If I keep trying I'll eventually get something correct, and not misunderstood.
When I say 1/3 to 1/4 of the branch is exposed I mean the top of the branch along its entire length, as it is lying flat in the rooting material. It is not a matter of one end or the other being exposed, both ends are partially buried. I know, it's hard to stop thinking vertically.....Elder (Lou)

I went back and read the original thread again, and it seems that I took items of information from various posts... Plumfan mentioned 1-1/2" deep when placing his cuttings horizonally in a shallow trench, and I retained that depth as I read your posts describing your use of plastic containers.
Next time I'll place them at the top of the potting mix with a little exposed at the top. Thanks again.

Glenn

All this talk about horizontal rooting has me itching to try this method. I have a couple of questions?

I have a tupperware container 11"x6 1/2" that for a better word is milky clear. Will that work? Can you put more than one cutting in a container? Do you mix liquid root stimulator in the soil?

Vern

Vern,

If you know that you are going to eventually have to transplant from your tupperware container, why not just start the sideways fig cuttings in the pot or barrel in the first place? Saves a ton of fussing around with tender shoots and roots. I like to start them in the ground where they are to grow, so they never have to be transplanted. Easier on both you and the plant.

Maybe you could line your tupperware with the bottom end of a cereal box before you add dirt, then you could lift the rooted cutting out in one piece. Theoretically, the box would eventually rot away and you would be happy.

The cuttings that I carefully dusted with Rootone are the ones that usually don't do as well, for some reason. So now I don't try to dust them or soak them in anything. Just straight into the potting soil or dirt, and inch or so deep. Works best in spring when the ground is heating up yet there is plenty of moisture available from melted snow or the incessant rains.

I find Elders method of leaving 1/3 of the entire sideways branch exposed to be interesting. I suppose that works well if you keep the environment very humid, as these cuttings cannot tolerate much drying and still be viable. My method of burying them completely in soil helps ensure they don't dry out as well. Humidity and heat are the two things needed to root fig cuttings.

It is getting kind of late to be propagating figs in some areas of the US. Unless you are doing it indoors or in a greenhouse.

The Tupperware should work just fine. I would probably want to open the lid at least once a day as they tend to have a tight seal and the air could become stale.
I agree 100% with Plumfan about using rooting chemicals, I don't think figs need it.
In answer as to why I don't just start cuttings in barrels or pots - these aren't really very convenient to move around, and I sure wouldn't want to try stacking them on a table.
Starting cuttings in situ sounds like a good way to go, but it is limited to the growing season. I tried burying eight Celeste cuttings in the ground early this summer, to date only one has pushed a leaf above the ground. I specifically tried Celeste because that variety seems to be easily rooted. However, I'll continue to try this method until I find out what I'm not doing right, too many people seem to like it for me to discard it.
A closed container will maintain quite a humid environment, so the exposed portion of the branch does not create any problems with drying out. I have a feeling that even the limited amount of light which reaches that exposed portion somehow stimulates budding, perhaps through limited photosynthesis. Maybe someone with more technical knowledge could comment on that.....Elder (Lou)

Hello,
I agree with elder that clear closed containers have many
significant benefits. However, one MUST remember that
some air ventilation is required! In early spring, when
my fig trees were just breaking buds, I did an experiment.
I chopped some fig twigs into single buds and potted them
(vertically) in very small cups (2-3oz - the bathroom kind)
in 100% vermiculite with the breaking bud ~half buried.
Well the buds grew to about 2" and some showed roots
from the same single node. I said great! But suddenly
fungus (mold) set in and did the bulk of them (even
after spraying with a captan soln). I will try again
next spring using 100% perlite (the white stuff) and
more ventilation...
George (NJ).

Hi,
I don't have any fig trees nor have I propagated any cuttings of them, but it has been my experience that vermiculite is an awful medium for cuttings or seedlings. It promotes rot at such a delicate time for a plant. Perlite has always worked better for me without a doubt. Very little worries about too much moisture and especially in an enclosed environment like the "humidity box/homemade greenhouse". This type of container is a good propagator for many plants by the way. Anyone else anti-vermiculite? Nice to read all of your posts, 3jsmom31

ME! - vermiculite holds to much moisture...

This old guy's head is spinning on all the advise I am reading on rooting fig cuttings. I have decided what works for one person does not necessarly work for some one else. I am going to visit my parents in South Jersey in October and hope to bring back to AR some more fig cuttings. I thought if there is a better way of getting cuttings to grow than what I do now I would try that method.

What I do is mix liquid root stimulator with Miracle'Gro potting mixture. Put the mixture and a fig cutting in a pot. I put the pot in my sun room and water the cutting just a little about every other day. I did two cutting in November last year and one lived. I did two cutting in early July. They look like they are going to make it. I did four more this month. Too early to tell with them. I also have two air rootings going that I did early this month. I like that method if it will work for me, because you do it and than forget about them for six to eight weeks. The only drawback is if you do no have your own fig trees. Someone might not want their fig branches wrapped up, while they don't mind giving you a cuting.

I would be glad to have comments and suggestions on my method.

Vern

Hi all, where is the best spot to cut a cutting? Is it from the bottom or the top. I planted a cutting that my uncle Al gave me. It's been doing well this summer when I transplanted it in the ground. I want to get a cutting from it. I noticed it has a sucker at the bottom. Should this be the next cutting??? Thank you

beabuz,
I would go for the sucker and try to pull it off with
some root ball. That way you can have another easy fig
going in no time! I was going to mention 'age', not sure
which tends to fruit first, sucker or tip, I do not fully
understand it! See for yourself:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/fig/msg0103480115432.html
George (NJ).

Here is a link that might be useful: how long before fruit from cuttings

I've been planning to take cuttings of my Petite Nigra fig but only because the shape is a little strange. Is this the time to do it? I got a small spring crop and a nice summer crop and I'd be happy to have more than 1 plant. The plant is outdoors for the summer and will be coming indoors before long. Thank you.