This may raise more questions than it answers, but the most robust plant will be in a soil that supports NO perched water. You then increase the frequency of water applications to keep up with demand. You may have to compromise at some point if you can't or are unwilling to water as frequently as required and use a heavier soil to lengthen watering intervals. Since hair roots begin to die very soon after being deprived of O2, the latter arrangement kills hair roots cyclically - every time you water. When favorable conditions for root development return to the soil, the plant must either use current photosynthate, or stored reserves to regenerate rootage. This is energy that WOULD have been directed to developing foliage, fruit, or increasing biomass, so you can see how a soil that is convenient for the grower is not always best for the plant.

Al

OK, so then let's forget about making a soil that's convenient for me and talk about a soil good for figs. If I use your recipe of PB fines, Turface and Granite (crushed), would that require daily watering? If so, that's fine...I could do it in the morning prior to leaving for work.

Also, where would I even find these ingredients? Is this something typically found at a Lowes or do I need to find a specialized nursery?

Carol Ann

How often watering is required sort of depends on the relationship between the foliage mass & the soil volume. I think that what you would likely look at and say "That's reasonable", would probably require that you water every other day until roots get really tight & the canopy heavy. It will vary, though.

If you copy paste this address http://www.profileproducts.com/sports_fields/wheretobuy.htm it will take you to a Turface locater. It's easier than me trying to figure out where you live and what's close to you.

You'll need to look around for the pine bark fines. There are several nurseries near me that have them as mulch all year, and I've purchased them at Meijer and Home Depot, too. Look for an orange/white bag at HD that says 'Premium Landscape Mulch - Pine Bark', or something very close to that wording.

Gran-I-Grit can probably be had at more rural elevators or stores that sell farm animal food. Ask for grower or starter grit & make sure it's granite or cherrystone and not crushed shellfish shells.

That's about it. If you decide not to go to the trouble of finding these ingredients, you can help yourself & your trees by employing a wick to help drain the perched water until the entire soil mass is colonized with roots - then just remove the wick. If you need more info on how this works, I'll link you to another thread that explains it.

Al

I just sent an email to someone from John Deere Landscapes near where I work to see if they carry the stuff I'll need. There's also a "feed store" on the way to the beach. I always pass it but never went in. Maybe I'll stop there on Friday with my list and see if they can help me.

As for the "wick", well...you're just going to have to walk me through that too. :-)

You are a FOUNTAIN of good information (I'm not worthy). You are the FIG MESSIAH! And I am so glad you've taken the time to answer my questions. If they get out of hand, please smack me and tell me so. I'll try and contain myself.

CA

Don't be so quick to jump to conclusions - I'm no messiah and you're getting smacked - sort of. ;o) Seriously though - to learn about how soils work, how water behaves in soils - and why, and how wicks work, follow the embedded link. If you get stuck, I'll be glad to help - just ask any specific questions you might have after you finish your homework. ;o)

Al

LOLOLOL Ok Professor, will do!

BTW, 3 of my fig trees arrived today, all from Edible Landscaping and I must say they looked beautiful. Two of them already had figs on them, the Violette de Bordeaux (I think that's what it's called) and the Calandria (sp?). Since they were shipped in pots and in what SEEMS like good soil, should I even bother to repot them now? Or wait until next spring? I watered them as soon as I got them out of their traveling suitcase and then again this morning.

CA

If the roots are really tight, you should pot up so you don't hold the plant back too much - especially if you have trouble keeping if hydrated (needs water more than once/day). If the roots aren't tight, it's probably going to be ok until spring. Do your repotting in mid-late Mar. If you're a new fig mom - resist the urge to over-nurture/over-water and water as needed instead of on a schedule. That the soil surface is dry is no sure sign the plant needs water. Check at the drain hole & water only when soil there is dry.

Al

OK, I'll check it when I get home, but I think the roots may be fine. When I watered this morning, I noticed that the soil was still damp from last night's watering.

And I am a new fig mom so thanks for the heads-up about watering "on demand" (I guess it's just like when my boys were small and I nursed them when they wanted, not on a schedule). I'll take a look at the bottom of the plant and see what's happening. If I can find the digital camera, I'll take a few pics too.

Thanks professor.

CA

If any of you have any doubts of Al's advice, I can tell you from my novice experiments that there is a huge difference in performance between figs in a tight soil and those in a well-aerated mix.

I was unable to find all the ingredients for Al's mix until late in the season, so planted some purchased trees in a soil/bark/potting mix combination. Later I planted cuttings in potting mix alone.

Those in the loose potting mix have outgrown those in the tighter soil mix by three to one. So much so that I have repotted all the cuttings and watched them take off like rockets.

The container trees' performance improved after I put in a liberal application of gypsum to break up the soil and create better drainage. (Gypsum "clumps" the soil particles and lets water and air thru more readily.)
Ox

Oh I definitely do not doubt what Professor Al has advised. I've read through some of his postings (he's given me more to read for homework :)) and anyone who has that much to say about soil definitely knows what he's talking about.

I'm having a problem finding all of the ingredients though :( What would be appropriate substitutes for each of the ingredients (pine bark fines, turface, crushed granite)?

CA