1. Cut only gray wood.
2. Cut below a node on a 45 degree angle.
3. Cut off the tip (new growth.)
4. Put the cutting in a small pot with some fast draining soil.
5. Water 2 or 3 times a day until you see new growth at the tip.

Make sure you have enough woody-type stem to make a good cutting first (cordyline can be deceiving, you need enough 'empty' stem devoid of leaves), clean your cutters, and cut! Strip off most of the leaves, I just leave a few at the top (with plants like Ti's you don't have to leave any if you don't want to), dip in rooting hormone and pot in a clean well draining mix, or in South FL probably just stick it in the ground, LOL. Water once, then leave for about a week, then start to water **sparingly** til you see new growth.

I usually take cuttings of stuff from now until about October.

If you are taking a cutting from a plant that has leaf nodes, like a hoya or a vine, try to get at least 3-4 nodes, remove all but the last leaves and put all the other nodes under the soil. The roots will arise from the old leaf nodes.

I usually take cuttings of stuff from now until about October.

Good point that I forgot to mention. You're not going to get root formation, at least on Crotons, until the night temperature stays above 70 degrees. I push the envelope by starting at 65 and occasionaly have some failures, but it's better than tossing the cuttings in the compost.

"Good point that I forgot to mention. You're not going to get root formation, at least on Crotons, until the night temperature stays above 70 degrees. "

I learned that the hard way Ricky!

A few years ago, I took a bunch of Croton cuttings and one lousy cutting took! My mistake, as youve noted, was doing it too early in the year.

As for Ti plants, the past few years in late Feb/early March Ive cut any of my plants back to desired heights and merely placed the cut stems back into the ground and every single one has taken.

I printed your instructions and will try soon. This should be fun!

teeka