Nice airlayer J !

I forgot to add my little helper. My 8-year old can now do a full air layer on his own using a knife, and my 6 year old can fill pots.

Hi,

Do you leave the stump at the bottom of the rootball, or do you cut that part off? I would think it would also root if it's in the ground, or pot, but maybe not.

noss

Noss,

I leave a little stump because I have found it helps to stabilize the tree while rooting. That is the only reason.

Great Post!

very informative

viv, i mean when potting the air layer.

Thanks. It would also sprout roots in time, giving the tree even more nourishment. Gosh, I love fig trees and figs! :)

Viv

loslunasfarms how long did it take from start to finish?

By the way, nice pics. I remember when my kids were that age.

@thisisme -- These took around 6 weeks. I saw roots after 4 weeks but I wanted a good rootball.

>> Nice airlayer J !
I second that.

May I also add that you have a very cute little helper.

However, I'll like to a another comment...

Very recently, I received 2 fig specimens from
a fig-friend (you know who you are...), that were
(almost) done the same way. One little hiccup
that I noticed was that the top tie-wrap was
initially secured too-tight, with the result
that the top twig was (almost) girdled too.
To compromise, I potted plants 1 node deeper
(new roots will eventually develop from there too).

Jose, you pic shows a much-less reserve (tight) case,
but I still see it.

Should the top tie-wrap be more-loose? Say to allow
space for the twig to grow-fatter, and maybe allow
a "funnel" for more-water to be added (assuming twig is vertical).

P.S.
For the few air layered figs I do, I use
'rooter-pots' that have both a small bottom water
reservoir and a top way to add more water...

Jose,
One other (better) difference that I just noticed,
is that you used 2 loops for the top tie-wrap
(more stretching/give is allowed?).

Hi Gorgi,

What are rooter pots and where can they be seen?

Thanks,

noss

Georgi, I would leave mine tight. It has two because I over filled the bag and could not get all the bag tucked into one zip tie.

I leave it sealed and tight because our weather is VERY dry, almost no humidity. The tree is already girdled and Im not sure if it makes a diff for me anyways.

@noss, see:
http://www.rooterpot.com/ingles/index1.htm
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/propa/msg0611233316852.html
Before giving up on the old-proven grafting method
(implementation varies), I found that rooter-pots are
easier to work with; but often require some additional support..

@Jose:
I do understand your 'dry' climate concern, but I think
that you missed my 'top-girdling' point.
I could have used a better word as self 'strangulation',
to explain myself. Look at the 4th pic. You can see a
'start' of it. In your case it is still minor, what
I have seen, it potentially as major,
(at least 2x more intense) - pl. no offense to anybody.
Is the (living) cambium-layer being crushed?
There exist figs (non carica) that strangle host trees.

Girdling at the BOTTOM is desired (makes the twig root faster); but NOT at the top (of the new roots).

Also, one good practice, is to 'score' any circling roots
of ANY root bound young-tree (not this case) to avoid
the tree from strangling itself with its own rootslater when it matures

Thinking hard!

One possible compromise satisfying both plant (growing)
and (user) very-dry conditions...

There IS such a thing as 'green-garden-tape', not sure
of the exact name - it is sure elastic. Use a double-loop
and tie secure...

Very nice job Jose and great pictures, your helper looks very serious about her job

George and Jose,

I use electrical tape with great success. It provides enough of a seal to maintain moisture, but it's width and elasticity minimizes girdling.

~james

Great explanation and pics...
Can you ail layer on this years growth...the 2 ft shoots are still green and have no hardened bark.