Best cuttings would come in before the coldest winter weather when die-back could potentially occur, I think you've still time if it hasn't gotten below 15-20 F.

From vitality point of view and relatively faster rooting, the best time to take cuttings of the plant is in the spring just before the buds show sign of swelling.

Now that is confusing.

What Ottawan said .

Martin

I think figs are pretty forgiving about when dormant cuttings are taken. I usually take mine in December or January. I've taken them as late as March. I have not noticed much difference in rooting. I've rooted a few dozen over the years.

What I like about taking them around New Years is I get a head start on the season, and have some pretty good growth before putting them outside. They do all of their rooting before the spring begins, and start putting out top growth. I like to think I'm getting an extra growing season that way.

Bear with us.
Yes, even those who believe that cuttings taken in spring root relatively easily/fsaster take their cuttings in fall for the same reason you mentioned i.e. head start and growth time inside the house, and also keeing those in far north busy when there is not much to do but watching snow pile through windows. This is because they know there is plenty of time for rooting and growth until spring.

Thank you very much for all the responses. I will take a few now and see what happens. And then in spring, I will root a few more and then compare the results.

This post was edited by kousa on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 23:16

Agree with Martin and Akram -- they root easy, fast and grow better. I learn this from a commercial grower.

My response was in reference to my assumption that the 'donor' was an in-ground plant in zone 6(perhaps I assumed incorrectly!). In the case of a winter like last year, much cold damage to the upper branches of fig plants would make those cuttings DOA. Therefore, you'd want to take the cuttings after dormancy, yet before any cold-damage could occur. This is standard practice for taking most types of scionwood.

Yes, I live in zone 6. Last spring, all my negronne fig branches died to about 1 foot to the ground. If it was not for protection, this Negronne fig would have died to the soil level like the Celeste fig that I did not protect. I am also protecting it this year. So hopefully I will be able to get some viable cuttings in the spring.

No one says not to take cuttings in fall. Majority of people take cuttings in fall for different reasons. THose who can wait until the plant is prime for coming to life enjoy their benefit of better rooting status of the cuttings:

"Yes, even those who believe that cuttings taken in spring root relatively easily/fsaster take their cuttings in fall for the same reason you mentioned i.e. head start and growth time inside the house, and also keeing those in far north busy when there is not much to do but watching snow pile through windows. This is because they know there is plenty of time for rooting and growth until spring."

Last year was my first year ever I rooted cuttings in zone 5b. First batch taken in August semi-woody all rooted in less than 10 days.
Second batch another variety taken first week in October, rooted in one week.
Third batch taken in late November rooted in 7-10 days.
Fourth, fifth and sixst batch were cuttings stored in fridge that were originally cut for third batch in late November.
As they are rooted in February and March indoors, and and April (garden bed), they all took 2-3 weeks to start showing roots.
Fastest rooting was in order: August-October-November etc.
One former member of the forum explained that dormant or re-fridgerated cuttings have closed "pipeplines" compared to freshly cut cuttings, and need to re-juice and start rooting.
These findings of mine confirm it, however the difference is of little signifficance in the big picture.
Rooting in garden bed in late April will give you almost 90% success rate with least effort. However, overall growth and maturity of the stems will be behind compared to those started indoors. Choice is yours, but if you leave wood outdoors ower the winted open to deep freeze, you will have nothing to root.
good luck

I'm in Z5. I have not experimented in cuttings yet. I have 2 3 year old chicago's in containers that are in my garage for their dormancy. They lost all their leaves in Oct/Nov. Is it ok to cut a branch off now, break in to cuttings and try to root them?

Thanks