Hi marcantonio,
I start many of my cuttings at this time of the year. They seem to do well for me. In fact I prefer to start them now because of the success rate compared to the ones I start in the spring.

I have a few that have just set root. They are two of the dwarf fig. Just today I noticed roots starting. I can see them because I use the clear plastic large cups to start them in. They are also just starting to show small new bud growth. I must tell you that I do have them indoors under grow lights with the room temperature set at 72 degrees. I have been doing it this way for years and have had good results. You would only have to ask the many people I gave the trees away to in the early summer months.

Can't answer your bone meal question. I just use a good quality potting soil that does not get hard and maintains good drainage qualities. I should also add that I spray the cuttings twice daily with plain (well) tap water and have a small humidifier going near the cuttings 24-7. The lights are on a timer set for 11 hours a day. I have added (I hope)two photos I just took. One showing the green bud and the other I hope you can see one of the roots growing inside of the plastic cup. I can see another root through the other side of the cup as well.
Hope this give you the push you may need to go forward and try it with a couple at least.
Happy holidays.
Lou NE, PA
[IMG]http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k215/pezzuti9/Greenfigbud.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k215/pezzuti9/Rootshowing.jpg[/IMG]

Sorry I placed the wrong photo file in the earlier message.
Lou NE, PA

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Yes, now is fine, as long as they are warm, something like 70+.

thanks so much guy's,
i think i'll try starting mine on top of
the fridge with heat mat. after they root
i'll move them to my garden window with the addition
of grow lights.
sound good?
also i tried burying some in the yard in compost near
the house foundation.

thank you
marcantonio

I should have also stated in my original post that as soon as I see two leaves developed and a nice group of roots showing I then transplant the cutting into a larger plastic pot with a top diameter about an 8 inches. Then move the small tree into my back basement and place it on the sill of a southern facing basement window. I like using dark colored pots at this time so they will tend to absorb heat generated by the sun what little I can get at this time of the year.

From then on its just water as needed and fertilize at half strength. Not to high in nitrogen. When the weather breaks in the spring I will place it into a much larger container and slowly introduce it outdoors to the elements and move it in and out of my garage if frost is predicted.

At this stage I usually I give them away unless it something special that I want as a keeper. Those I keep moving them up until the last stop is a 20-gallon plastic tub and as many people stated on here water, water, water. They dry up pretty fast in tubs during the summer months.

One more thing that I discovered. I used to keep them during the summer in my backyard on the grass but have since learned about 4 years ago that here in PA they do much better having the tubs placed on my black tar driveway.

Lots of luck.
I have learned that people using this forum are a very special breed. I would like to say THANK YOU to all and especially to a few I have dealt with directly. You know who you are and to the rest thanks also for the vast amount of useful information you put forward here.
Lou, NE, PA

Root them in clear cups. There is NO, repeat, NO relationship bewteen the numver of leaves that form and the amount of roots that are forming. You need to be able to actually see the roots.

guy's,
is it better to tent the cups with plastic
or not to.
how often do you add water?

thank you
marcantonio

Marcantonio,
When I write the methods that I use they are not necessarily the best for other people. Myself I make sure that I keep the soil moist. If that means watering twice a day then I do. I do not let the soil the cuttings are in dry out. I use a tray about three inches deep to hold the plastic cups in but on the bottom I place a piece of 3/4 inch pine wood used just to keep the cups above the water level that drains out of the cups during the watering cycle. I don't like the cuttings with the cup bottoms sitting in standing water. When I see that
the water is getting above the board that I placed in the bottom of the tray I take it to the deep sink and drain the water from the tray and start all over again. I don't cover mine up with plastic. I tried that and did not get the results I wanted. My home has very low humidity and that is why I use a small two-gallon humidifier that I bought at a garage sale for a buck. Using that I get the humidity in the area I have my trees growing up from 35% to 45%. It also does a good job of reducing the damage from spider mites.

I did use the heating pad method you mentioned but I did place a damp cloth towel on the top of the heating pad and under the tray your using to hold the cutting containers.
It will supply a little moisture around the cuttings--not sure if it works but it may help some.

As far as waiting for two leaves to grow out I must clarify that and say before I repot I just wait until the buds that have appeared have opened up a bit. The root mass is the most important factor. Below is a photo of the humidifier I use.

Let us know how you make out. I wish you the best of luck.
Lou NE, PA
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Im glad someone else asked the question!!! LOL!

I was dying to but I feel like I ask too many newbie questions at times.

Anyhow, thnx Ill be trying to root up some of my cuttings asap!!

I just took these pics a few days ago showing some growth in two rooted cuttings I was sent. The black mission had a VERY well established root ball so I wasnt too surprised to see this one take off, but my lil negrone started greening up too! :)