I'm not an expert, but I have been told that the leaves of the plant carry the Round Up to the root system, and that kills the entire plant. I'd like to know if that is correct, too.

I do know there is a stronger product (something like Brush Be Gone) that works better on larger bushes or small trees, etc. Maybe it would be more helpful on your vine? I'm sure there are folks here who can clarify for both of us, and I'm looking forward to learning more.

Good question, Tom!

Marcia

Roundup does go to the roots, but many vines have multiple nodes that each send down their own root. Dollar weed is the perfect example. Start pulling it up and you can see that each leaf has it's own root system! Roundup will only work back a couple nodes.
I'm struggling with some vines in my yard too. No matter what I do, then keep coming back.

Kate

Marcia - LOL - once again we were answering at the same time. I saw your response after submitting mine.

I have Brush Be Gone but I'm afraid to use it anywhere near another plant. And of course the d*** vines are growing up, through and around plants I don't want to kill. I'm thinking of using a tiny bit of the brush killer on the asparagus ferns too but they are right next to a 50' palm tree in one part of the yard and right under a rose bush in another part, so I'm scared to try it!

(Cowardly) Kate

I find this technique works well: use high concentrate glyphosate (the active ingredient in Round-Up: there are several brands now but they're all pretty pricey because Monsanto has bought them up). Try to a concentration in the 40% range. Cut the the vine near the base, and IMMEDIATELY brush the cut stump with it straight: don't dilute it. Only a little is necessary because you're only dabbing it on the cut surface. You can increase the surface area and the effectiveness of the application by cutting at a 45 degree angle. This technique is safer for nearby plants: there's no danger of winddrift as there is when you spray. And you use a small paintbrush you can really pinpoint where the herbicide goes.

I've found this technique works for everything except vines that grow from big tough bulbs--like smilax. With something like trumpet creeper I would try to cut and paint all the suckers at once. Even then you may have to do repeated applications.

Glyphosate is supposedly the safest of the herbicides, and I learned this particular technique from prairie restoration people who use it to keep invasive exotics out of native plantings. Sara Stein writes about it in her "Planting Noah's Garden."

Good Luck!

Bill

I agree with Bill as that is how Ive been told to get rid of Pepper trees. Me who hates chemicals of any kind.
I do have to use the tough stuff on Poison Ivy too.Cannot use my weed dragon unless I want poison ivy of the eyes and respiratory tract.
When I get a plant that has tough weeds coming up sometimes I dig it out and sift through the roots to make sure none of the weed is left there.Then I usually relocate it or after I am darn sure the weed has been burned or solarized or poisoned,,,,you can replant.
drastic step for a Really bad problem only.

Hort. vinegar does the trick. Click the link and scroll down to the post by Pieceof paradise.

Here is a link that might be useful: Vinegar

Well, I had a problem with poison ivy in of all places the monkey grass in the planters around my pool. While it didn't used to bother me it seems that over the years I've developed enough antibodies that now I'm in trouble if I brush up against it. I purchased the Round Up Poison Ivy solution and while I did get a little on the monkey grass it didn't even come close to harming it and did a good job on the poison ivy. I'd give it a try on a few select areas until you feel comfortable that it's not harming your other plants.

btw, glyphosate works by disrupting photosynthesis--it's a salt that inhibits one of the many enzymes involved in converting sun to sugar. it's considered very safe since its action is so narrow. the problem is that a plant can have enough stored energy to re-emerge, even though the top has been killed. that's what bill's trick tries to circumvent--if enough of it is absorbed into the roots, the new shoots can't survive.

i generally avoid all chemicals (except neem and pyrethins) in my garden space. but i do use glyphosate. it's VERY effective if used in strong enough solution. buy it by the quart in concentrate, and it's not that expensive.

Hi
Have a question. I used this extensively on a Bougainvillea but one of the neighbors dogs was attracted to it . Would lick it off !! How harmful is this and is there an antidote?? Only one of the dogs did it (boxer)
others completelyy ignored it. I didn't notice the dog doing this until the third application. gary