Lookin' good.

I had a few thoughts for you...

 Chlorine in tap water will evaporate in a few hours if left to sit, even faster if you agitate it (such as running an air pump in it). You won't hurt anything by leaving it to sit for several days but you do not have to.

 Do you have a plan to support the toms and peppers once they start growing?

 What are the specs on the light you are using?

 If the blue thing on the bottom shelf is the ballast for that light you might consider moving it. Tubs of saltwater being stored above high voltage electronics is a problem waiting to happen.

 Was any thought given to how to add water/nutirents and change the nutrient solution once the plants start growing?

I'm looking forward to seeing some growth pics once things get going.

-backwards

Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.

"Chlorine in tap water will evaporate in a few hours if left to sit"

I didnÂt know that, good information for future setups.

"Do you have a plan to support the toms and peppers once they start growing?"

Yes, IÂm planning to attach a piece of plastic chicken wire to the side / back of the rack and tie the tomato up as it grows. IÂm not too worried about the pepper as it is a hot chile variety and will not grow too large.

"What are the specs on the light you are using?"

400W MH. IÂll switch to a HPS bulb when the tomato and pepper start to bud. IÂm not sure how IÂll deal with the spinach under HPS. IÂm told it will bolt like crazy under HPS. I still have some time to figure this out.

"If the blue thing on the bottom shelf is the ballastÂ"

Yes it is an electronic ballast that will do both MH and HPS bulbs. ItÂs off to the side now and well out of the way it was one of those doh! moments after I first looked at the picture LOL. Thanks for noticing and the warning though.

"Was any thought given to how to add water/nutirents and change the nutrient solution once the plants start growing?"

Yes and no. I originally purchased brass fittings to add drains to the bottom of the bins when the nutrients needed to be changed but got concerned about being able to seal them properly. IÂm still trying to figure out how to cut a reasonable access hole in the lids given the low amount of real estate. I put together the first bin but have not cut the lid for the second one yet. I figured IÂd be able to prop up the lid with the spinach and lettuce and transfer the lid to a secondary bin when I need to fully change nutrients. I know I wonÂt be able to get away with this approach for the tomato and pepper bin. I think IÂll dump the water and put a drain in the second bin. IÂll also find some way to get better access through the lid. Hey, the bins are on sale for $6.00 at a local hardware store. If I really mess up a drain or butcher the lid beyond use, it wonÂt be a huge loss. IÂll post a shot of my final design when itÂs done.

Bill

Quote:
I originally purchased brass fittings to add drains to the bottom of the bins when the nutrients needed to be changed but got concerned about being able to seal them properly. IÂm still trying to figure out how to cut a reasonable access hole in the lids given the low amount of real estate.

You might check out the "electical conduit" section of the local hardware store. They sell somehting called "bulkhead fittings" (i believe that is the propper name?) that are designed to run electrical wires through walls/ceilings without causing leaks. they come complete with rubber O rings and retainer nuts. The ends of these fittings are threaded so you can find a threaded ball valve and you'll have a leak-less valve for emptying the resivoir.

Another way to drain the nutrient soultion if it needs changing would be to syphon it out. This can be messy until you get the hang of it but it looks like you have tile floors so you won't do any dammage a towel can't fix. Becasue you have your resivoir sitting on the shelf elevated above the floor, a syphon should be as easy as using an empty bucket and a piece of tubing.

Rather than opening a large hole in the lid to check the nutrient solution level you could drill a much smaller hole and use a wooden dowel rod as a "dip stick" just like checking the oil in your car. If you need to top off the system with water you could use a funnel to channel water into the smaller hole you drilled for the dip stick.

I have always run my hydroponics outdoors for lack of a suitable light but one of these days I'm going to buy one similar you what you have set up.

The chlorine issue is widely debated among hobby hydro growers. I have always said- people water their lawns and gardens with water straight from the tap and it doesn't seem to hurt the plants why should hydro be any different? The thing to remember is that the chlorine disolved in tap water is similar to the CO2 disolved in Coca Cola. If you leave a bottle of coke open for a few hours it goes flat as the gas is released back into the atmosphere, if you shake the bottle up it can go flat in a matter of minutes.

It looks like you have done your homework and I have no doubt you'll have success with your first hydroponic grow.

Green side up; White side down,
-backwards

sdrawkcab, thanks for the suggestions.

IÂm familiar with using the siphon method of draining the bins. It will be my last resort if I canÂt find a better solution.

The stand the bins are on was specifically put together in its present configuration to raise the bins so they could be easily drained into a bucket. The stand is on wheels and IÂm fortunate to have a rather large walk in shower. If I get really lazy, I figured I could wheel the stand into the shower and drain the nutrients right down the drain and refill them in the bathroom. (I know, lazy! LOL)

What IÂm really looking for is a way to accomplish the following:

{{gwi:997790}}

This setup would give me a water level gauge and a method to drain all in one. I just canÂt find the right elbow joint at any of the hardware stores in my area. IÂm going to drop by a plumbing shop tomorrow after work theyÂll have something I sure.

Regarding the light, outdoors is not a very long season in my neck of the woods. The light gives me the ability to grow stuff all year round (even when itÂs -20 outside). A bit of an investment to purchase and there are ongoing operational costs but hey, this is my hobby. ItÂs a little cheaper than collecting Rembrandts!!! LOL

I just took my reading and IÂm a bit perplexed my pH is up to 7.0 (expected based on previous reading yesterday) but, my TDS is now 855 at 21.5C (up from 823 yesterday)? I would have thought that it would weaken before strengthening. Could it be that itÂs getting more concentrated due to evaporation or did I screw up my reading one day or the other?

Bill

The TDS change could be caused by any number of things. pH is far more important than TDS as far as plant health. My suggestion is to watch and adjust your pH as often as you need to but don't lose any sleep over TDS fluxuations unless they are huge or the plants seem to be suffering.

{{gwi:997785}}

This is a Bulkhead fitting. Commonly used in running conduit and also available at higher end aquarium shops (it is also used in custom fish tank filters). This is the cheapest and easiest way to make a hole below the water level without leaks. They come in lots of different sizes and some even have 90* elbows on the end. Worth a look if you want to have a drain below the water level.

Hi,

Well, I added 30ml of lemon juice to the 11 gallon bin to bring down the pH. Wow! Did it ever work. From 7.0 yesterday to 5.3 one hour after adding it. IÂll check it again tomorrow just to make sure itÂs not a temporary thing.

I received a 5 gallon food grade container today so why not add another bubble bin (bucket) to the mix. IÂll post some pictures of the current setup this weekend.

sdrawcab, thanks for the drain suggestion. IÂll hit the hardware store this weekend. I really appreciate the feedback. Please keep it coming!

Bill

I do not want to insult you by asking; but any of the other forum members here can tell you that tact is not my strongsuit.
Do you understand why controling your pH is important? I ask becasue I find many gardeners (both hydro and dirt) know that they are supposed to adjust the pH of their growing environment but they have no idea why. Understanding the relationship between pH and nutirent absorbtion is (A) a really boring thing to learn, but also (B) important to understanding why hydroponics (or even soil based gardening) works.

Have you considered branching out into other forms of hydroponics if you plan to add another system? DWC is by far the cheapest/easiest of the "active" hydroponic techniques but Ebb&Flow, NFT, top drip, and raft can all be done with relitivly basic supplies. I used a 5G bucket to build a system in my college dorm room.
{{gwi:301208}}
This was a top drip system growing Chlorophytum Comosum (sp?) in my dorm room. CC's are one of the best plants on earth at filtering air so i called it my hydroponic air purifier. If you want to branch out and try some other method of hydro I'll be glad to help you design a system around whatever parts you may already have.

Whoa! I didnÂt know there was going to be a test!!! LOL

IÂd pull out my grade 10 biology text but I got tired of carrying around the clay tablets it was etched on and tossed it many years ago.

I canÂt give you your answer in scientific terms but as best I can recall and from what IÂve picked up by gardening in soil, pH is just one important factor that needs to be considered for healthy plants.

All plants require a certain level of alkalinity and acidity in order to absorb nutrients efficiently. Different species of plants require different levels based on their metabolism. I have also read in the past that you can doctor weak plants by varying the pH of the soil (or liquid) to allow them to increase their uptake of whatever nutrient they are deficient in. I have not tried this in the garden but assumed, based on my hydroponics research thus far that I will have to confront this challenge. Right now I couldnÂt tell you how to increase nitrogen absorption in lettuce versus any other nutrient if my (ok the plants) life depended on it.

As I mentioned earlier, IÂm planning on growing lettuce and spinach in the same bin. As both require varying pH levels, IÂm shooting for a happy medium of 6.0.

Am I in left field, did I miss something? Did I pass?

IÂm familiar with the various forms of hydroponic systems. For me, just starting to learn the ins and outs, DWC seemed to be the easiest and cheapest way to start. I had the HID light and an aquarium air pump and a few stones, baskets and bins didnÂt bankrupt me. OK, the pH meter I purchased set me back a bit but I knew it would be very handy and useful. Ultimately (if I enjoy this experience) I will probably end up setting up an area in the basement for a couple of ebb and flow systems. This type of system seems to make the best sense for my interests.

I think IÂve done ok thus far tapping into this forum and members like you. IÂve also spent some time at a hydroponics shop gleaning as much info from staff as possible. I still have a long way to go but am enjoying the journey.

Hey, my lettuce has germinated in the perlite in the bin now I got to keep it alive long enough to make a salad!

Thanks for the offer to help me design a system. IÂll definitely take you up on it when IÂm ready to move to ebb and flow.

Bill

Hello,

Thought IÂd post a follow-up on my progress for those interested.

IÂve managed to get my nutrients right for young plants and my pH adjusted properly.

Last night I transplanted a Bhut Jolikia chile pepper from a seed starting tray to a 6 inch basket in a new bubble bucket. It seems to be taking to the new environment quite well. After some initial leaf droop, it picked up nicely. My Lettuce started from seed in my bubble bin also seems to be doing well. I hope itÂs not just beginners luck!

IÂve been stratifying my spinach seeds for a few days in the freezer. IÂll be planting them in the remaining 3 baskets in the bin tonight or tomorrow morning.

Here are a few shots to prove IÂm not dreaming LOL. I covered the white lid on the bucket with foil to prevent algae growth. It should also help reflect some light back up on the pepper.

As always, comments and suggestions are very much welcomed.

Bill

{{gwi:997791}}

{{gwi:997792}}

{{gwi:997793}}

Silly question,
Your holes in the lids are so neat. How did you cut them out?
Mine look like I chewed them out.
Msglory

Simply put, pH is important because it affects the availability of various nutrients to the plants. below a pH of 5 and the bulk of nutrients become almost unavailable to plant nutrition.
Also, your Chlorophytum Comosum is like the easiest plant ever to grow. We call them spider plants. I used to have probably 5 in my office. they're also very telling as far as too much or too little nutrient and lack of water(when grown in dirt).

msglory,

I just used a marker to draw the outline of the basket and then used a Dermel rotary tool to cut just inside the mark. Did ok but slipped a few times... thus the foil beside afew of the baskets. I covered the green bucket lid with foil because it was white.

gizzman,

Thanks for the pH follow-up.

Bill

Yea I also used a dremel tool with a rotary sanding bit. It cut the plastic like cheese. You'll ruin your lid with a razor knife.