Daily watering is only helpful as long as the soil drains the water quickly and allows the roots to absorb oxygen again. If the soil begins to drain poorly, the soil can remain wet, causing the roots not to absorb oxygen and thereby begin a process that promotes root rot. One of the symptoms of root rot, by the way, is a plant that is constantly dropping or wilting no matter what so keep an eye. Short or long term, they probably need to be transplanted. But if you can locate some shade cloth and if you can put above them somehow, that may help short term.

I had a crape myrtle that shaded a hydrangea. During the summer, hail damaged the side that shaded the hydrangea. After a few weeks, the leaves in direct contact with the sun turned all yellow, including the leaf veins. After determining that there was no nitrogen problems, I erected a contraption to provide the shade. I am not too proud of it -ha!- as it had to be put together when the wind toppled it but it lasted thru the end of summer and the hydrangea survived.

The best time to transplant is when the shrub is dormant but if the plant's leaves in direct contact with the sun continue wilting or begin to scorch and you cannot protect it, I would move it now and keep a close and constant eye this summer.

Admittedly we are in a string of record heat days for our area, so I will watch for a few weeks how the hydrangea do. If they can live happily where they are, I'd rather not move them.

Last year I babied them b/c they were newly planted. This year, until the big shade tree came down, they're doing just fine. Healthy in every way - leaves, blossoms, size, etc.

Thanks for the input. Liked your shade "contraption" story.

Water around the bases for 30 seconds per plant per day as long as it's this hot. Morning or evening is best, but midday water may provide some immediate relief from severe wilting. This will at least cool the soil and provide some relief from heat stress. Also heavily mist the leaves/blooms, but not too close to nightfall for fear of mold (although ES doesn't really get bad with this).

2" of mulch at the base of each plant for a radius of 18" outward will help retain mosture and cooler temperatures, and make the plants less prone to cooking.

The time to genuinely be concerned would be early mornings - if they are STILL drooping, you know that there is a severe water deficit. Otherwise, they should be perked up and look lush again each day.

A few crispy leaves will occur each summer, especially ones like this! This summer has already cooked people's lawns, and things up to and including saplings and evergreens have appeared to be next on the hitlist, so if you save your hydrangeas you know you've accomplished something...