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mellyz

Soil Question

20 years ago

We had our house built in 2002. It is a new subdivision in Michigan, which means the developers cut down every tree and hauled away every grain of topsoil leaving all homeowners with Blue clay. With Hard work, we planted 15 trees and numerous beds. Digging out clay and replacing it with a soil mixture of peat moss and top soil. My hydrangea beds- I dug down about 2 1/2 feet below ground level and my husband made me some cedar plant boxes so there is about 4 feet good soil before clay. I put a thin layer of sand and soil conditioner on the clay before I put in good soil to break it up just in case. Extreme measures, possibly. In my hydrangea beds (around the yard I have 17 hydrangeas) I used peat moss, top soil and manure to start, planted the hydrangeas. I added alum sulfate along the way, the next few years, I had blue hydrangeas. All I've added in the past years was alum sulfate and maybe a little 10-10-10 fertizer, not too often though. I am always araid of adding anything. The soil always tested acidic. This year it tested neutral. How do I add some amendments, Just add it on top of the soil and mix into the top layer? Which amendments do you suggest?

My hydrangeas this year in those boxes are pale blue almost white. I usually clear away all mulch in the spring and add fresh mulch.

I am forum lurker- since 2002. Ive used the advice of most of you in my planting and selection of hydrangeas and hayseedman's overwintering advice. Thanks for always answering my questions (without me even posting) =-)Thanks!

Melly

Comments (6)

  • 20 years ago

    I think the soil acidifier made the soil acid or more acid. The soil can have amendments added to the first 4-6 inches. Use the soil acidifier or aluminum sulphate or sulfur if that is not available to keep those flowers remaining blue. Lime will make it pink and raise the pH. The hydrangeas are getting the available aluminum in the soil and this determines the flower color on those hydrangeas that can change color. The white flowered ones do not change color with the pH fluctuations. Why clear away the mulch? This mulch eventually decomposes and also feeds your plants. The fresh mulch is great if only to act as a weed block;replenish it where the sun has disintergrated it and the mulch also it acts to improve moisture retention so you don't have to water as frequently. I would leave the existing mulch and add to it if needed. Why give yourself more work? The fertilizer does not change the pH of the soil it just feeds your plants. I would feed the hydrangeas as they are starting to leaf out in the spring.

  • 20 years ago

    Dont replace the old mulch, the older it gets the better it is for your soil -- making it richer. As the mulch decomposes through time, your growing hydrangea will love that. Just add more each year to keep up with the weeds.

  • 20 years ago

    The only reason I was removing it was it was a big hard block, all stuck together and nasty. We had a bit of a slug problem, not sure if that was the culprit or not. We had it brought in by the truck load the last two years and I dont know if there was something living in it but by spring it was like cement with white spores on it. It didnt look healthy enough to keep. I guess I should have stated that. sorry This year I just went to Home depot and bought some bags of it.
    Should I incorporate some Hollytone into the top 4 inches of soil? I thought in order for them to be blue, the soil had to be acid and in order for it to absorb the acidity it needed alum. sulfate. I thought I was doing everything right. There are so many differing opinions.. add coffee grounds, iron nails, cider vinegar, etc. I re-read Dirr's book and still was confused. Do i need to add hollytone AND alum sulfate? ( I say Hollytone because I have A lot of it here from Holly Bushes)

    Thanks for the help

  • 20 years ago

    Mellyz,

    Hollytone is a great organic fertilzer and will go a long way toward 'helping' to maintain/promote acidic soil. Alum Sulfate is not a fertilizer, just a chemical additive for blueing. If your bed has high ph, both may be necessary. If you have a large bed, this can be very costly and labor intensive as you will have to do it on a regular basis in order to maintain blueing ph levels. Keep in mind that if your water has high ph/lime, you are fighting the Hollytone and Alum Sulfate every time you water the plants......yg

  • 20 years ago

    The peat moss combined with the aluminum sulphate was probably what caused the soil to test acidic. But soils will always tend to revert to their original chemistry over time to so to maintain acidic soils for your hydrangeas, you will need to continue to add an acidifying agent. That could be peat moss, agricultural sulfur, cottonseed meal or a fertilizer for acid lovers, like the Hollytone. Use the aluminum sulphate sparingly to increase the blueness and only after you have successfully increased the soil acidity - too much aluminum can cause toxicity.

  • 20 years ago

    Thanks guys once again you answered my question. =-)