They should be planted with the top of the bulb just one inch below the top of the soil. Normally they put up a rosette of leaves in the fall which is why they need to be planted shallow. They prefer a slightly alkaline soil. I haven't grown them but have read plenty about them. Maybe you should bring the bulbs closer to the surface if you think they are planted too deep. Keep in mind that some lilies, especially some of the species (Madonna is actually a specie, L. candidum) can sulk for a year after transplanting. They can even remain underground without putting up any growth but still be ok. But in my opinion if Madonna doesn't perform next year or puts up twisted, distorted foliage it may be best to discard these bulbs because they are probably diseased (they are also prone to disease, esp. virus infection). That is why I have not bothered to try them. Maybe someone with more positive input will comment.

I have had great success with just a few bulbs over a period of 4 years. This year, just 2 stalks came up with nice blossoms, but it seems that I do not have as many plants that I started with. Perhaps it is typical, but I can't answer that. They are so pretty, though.

Vicki

I had a similar experience with Candidum bulbs I planted last fall. I planted them shallowly. The rosette came up right on schedule in the fall. All seemed well. Spring came, Spring went, no flower stalk. I'm giving them another year in case they just needed to get settled in, but if they don't bloom this coming season I'm going to assume that conditions in that bed aren't right for them and dig them up.

This year I've grown some Candidum from seed that I'm going to plant in a different bed. So now I can wait a several years before I figure out they're not doing anything! :) At least I'll know they don't have virus.

-Helen

Well-grown you should hope to see a few flowers the 2nd season after sowing seed.

A well-drained spot is best, somewhat dry towards the end of summer (a plant from the mediterranean after all). If your climate is very hot a little shade keeps their foliage going for longer but I certainly remember clumps back in the UK which were in full sun.

My experience of bought-in bulbs is that they are often only just at the edge of flowering size - no stem simply means too small a bulb in my opinion.

The stress of lifting & selling (they have only a short dormancy which is why you'll see them sold earlier than the main run of lilies) can leave them sulking a season or two. Provided the bulb is still there (one advantage of shallow planting is that your finger can flick away the soil to see), patience is all that's required.

The virus susceptibility is more of an issue. More virus-tolerant than one would like, so that they'll go on growing without actually turning-up their toes when infected (lots of the old clones wouldn't set seed & thus were propagated exclusively vegetatively so they obviously can survive a long time after infection). Most people suggest growing it as far away from other lilies as possible and starting with seed-raised (& hence virus-free) stock. You might think of regularly renewing them from seed or even growing a sacrificial plant of longiflorum within the clump to test for virus as McRae suggests.

Best of Luck.

Thanks for the advice Kayman. (I hope my seed bloom quickly - I'm not naturally the patient type!) I like your idea of interplanting with Longiflorum. Since it looks somewhat like candidum it will make visual sense being in the same garden and with a different bloom time will just extend my season!

-Helen