I saved kdjoergensen's instruction on scaling. Here it is. I hope it comes up well:

Propagating Lilies

Posted by GreenLeaf1818 z7 (My Page) on Mon, Mar 14, 05 at 19:18
I've heard that you can propagate lilies by planting sections (scales or shells, whatever they're called). That's pretty much all I know about doing that. Has anyone tried it? Any details on how to do this would be great! I have a few loose bulb shells, so I'm eager to do something with them.
Thanks!
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Propagating Lilies
Posted by: kdjoergensen z6b NJ (My Page) on Mon, Mar 14, 05 at 20:09
You need portion of the basal plates with the scales. Provided you have that, basically just put it in a plastic baggie with some moist, not soaking wet, peatmoss sphagnum or vermiculite. Then put on the water heater or elsewhere that is slightly warm. Then leave for 3-6 months.
Asiatics are easier to scale than orientals.
See article link.
Kenneth
Here is a link that might be useful: Scaling lily bulbs - article
RE: Propagating Lilies
 Posted by: Garden_Nerd UK Central (My Page) on Tue, Mar 15, 05 at 6:24
Great article, kd. Can this process happen naturally? At the end of the winter, when I repot liles, I often find that some bulbs have disintegrated/rotted in the pot, leaving behind numerous small bulblets which send up tiny leaves. Sometimes I pot them up separately, sometimes I just let them get on with it in the mother pot. I'm also a bit confused about which are from scales and which are from stem bulbils. Not that it matters much to me as long as they grow.
The "Lilium" genus encompasses a group of bulbs also commonly known as true Lilies.
While many plants borrow the lily name, they are often of a different genus, such as daylilies (Hermerocallis) and calla lilies (Zantedeschia).
Lilies ("Lilium") grow from bulbs composed of overlapping fleshy scales. These bulbs never go completely dormant and do not form a protective tunic unlike tulips or daffodils. Instead the overlapping scales help to ensure the survival of the "heart". Even if outer scales are damaged or broken it will not hurt the interior structures.
A broken scale is capable of asexual reproduction by producing small miniature clones called bulblets. This is the bulb's natural way of ensuring it's survival if damaged by rodents or an overzealous gardener for example.
Growers can also benefit from this defense mechanism by purposely removing a few outer scales for propagation without damaging the mother bulb. This is a better technique than dis-sectional cuttings of tunica bulbs, for example, where the mother bulb is sliced into pieces.
Getting the Scales
When you buy lily bulbs make sure you remove a few outer scales from each bulb before planting. You can generally remove several scales with no adverse effect. Use name tags as it will take 2-5 years to remember which scale belonged to which lily.
You can also dig up an existing lily bulb, preferably in late fall after the flower stem has died back and turned brown. Alternatively, you can dig a hole next to a growing lily, without removing the bulb from the ground. Gently work your way down to where the bulb is planted and break off a few scales from one side. This technique works great in a neighbor's yard.
Breaking off the scales
Make sure you get a piece of the basal plate which is the hard material at the bottom of the bulb where all the scales are attached and from where the roots grow. The basal plate is stem tissue where the bulblets will form.
You can use your thumb to gently push one scale away from the bulb. Insert the fingers in the gap and break the scale off as low as you can. You can also insert a short, sturdy knife between the bulb and the scale and cut straight down through the basal plate. The individual scales should have a slight discoloration at the bottom which is, in fact, portions of the basal plate itself.
Bagging the Scales
A small plastic bag is filled with moist, but not soaking wet, propagation medium. I usually use 100% vermiculite, but Seed Starting Mixtures are excellent for this purpose also. If you squeeze a handful hard no more than a few drops should come out. Too dry and the process stops, too wet and the scales will rot. Put the scales into the bag and shake carefully.
Close the bag and place it in a warm place for 2-3 months, such as on top of the water heater or in a dark corner of a closet. Check on the bag every 3-4 weeks and mist the medium if it is drying out. Eventually small miniature bulblets will form at the edge of the scales by the stem issue.
Bulblets forming
Initially, the bulblets are very delicate and incapable of growing on their own yet. Attached they feed on the nutrients of the plumb scale. In a short while, roots will start to grow from the bulblets and they will also start to take in nutrients on their own. After a while the bag becomes one big jungle of scales, bulblets and roots. When the bulblets enlarge to pea-sized they can gently be separated from the scales and planted in pots. The scales can then be returned to the bag to develop more bulblets.
Transplanting
While in the bag, some of the bulblets may develop a single seed leaf (cotyledon). When you notice these, the bulblet should be removed from the bag if large enough and planted in pots.
You can also plant the entire scale, with bulblets and leaves, in the pot if you prefer. At a later stage you will need to separate the bulblets and transfer them into individual pots.
Vernalization
Some types of lilies, like Asiatics for example, will happily leaf out while others, like Orientals, must be induced to promote green leaves. This can be done by exposing the larger bulblets to cold temperatures for 3-4 weeks, a process called Vernalization.
When bulblets are pea-sized and have roots, put the plastic bag in the refrigerator for about one month (longer is no problem). Freezing is not recommended. When you are ready, remove the bag and plant the bulblets in pots at room temperature. The bulblets should respond by sending up a seed leaf (cotyledon).
Asiatic and Trumpet lilies generally do not require vernalization whereas Oriental lilies do. Some lilies are especially difficult to get to leaf out. In this case simply place the bulblets back in cool storage for another month and try again, or better yet, plant the bulblets outdoor in early fall and leave them over the winter. This will get them going.
Tip: When buying Oriental Lilies in the spring, the bulbs have usually been vernalized by the grower already. When scaling bulbs at this time, the Orientals usually leaf out on their own without having to refrigerate the bulblets.
Growing On To Flower
The first year of growth, the lilies will send up a single leaf (cotyledon), only. The following year a miniature flower stem will develop . During the next few years this stem will gradually grow in size and thickness, finally producing 1 or 2 flowers during it's 3rd to 5th year. Asiatic lilies may flower as early as 2-3 years whereas some Oriental lilies will take quite a bit longer.
During the first year of growth it is a good idea to keep the lily bulblets together in a nursery bed which can be heavily mulched during the winter. As the lilies mature and grow bigger, you can separate the young bulbs and transplant them. Remember that groups of 3 or 5 look great together.
Fertilize lilies twice per year: First time when the plants just stick their heads above ground in early spring and again just before flowering. Use a bulb or annual plant fertilizer.
A few scales from a bulb can easily produce 20-30 individual lilies in a few years. Share them with friends and family, or mail a few my way! In any event, I am sure you will have lots of fun scaling your own lilies.
Now what? (scales) Ken I need your help please.
Posted by razz 6 Washington (My Page) on Tue, Mar 15, 05 at 11:56
I followed all the rules for scaling lilies off of Kens page. I now have oddles of tiny little bubbets ( all mixed and many kinds) I kept gently pulling the babys off as the grew all winter and new ones came in their place,but now what? do I pot them up for the summer? leave them in their big zippy all year till they grow bigger? I do have a small greenhouse and have lots of lily seeds coming up.
razz
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RE: Now what? (scales) Ken I need your help please.
 Posted by: kdjoergensen z6b NJ (My Page) on Tue, Mar 15, 05 at 12:03
Plant them shallowly in pots just covered with growing media. Use an extremely well draining media, such as seed starting mixtures. do not use garden soil or heavy potting soil or you will rot them. If there are any green growth, let these green leaves stick out.
If you grow them in pots, keep them growing by watering, occationally fertilizing and making sure they get enough light.
You can also plant them outdoors after last chance of frost in a protected "nursery" bed, or plant them in larger containers and keep these in cold frames next winter.
My take on it is that they are big enough to go outdoors in the spring and can grow all summer and fall. Usually they survive winter ok, but a good heavy winter mulch after the soil has frozen is recommended, and remove it in spring around last frost.