What is the need for it to be non-grafted? Cutting-grown Japanese maples are difficult to achieve successfuly and quite uncommon and seed-grown plants have no guarantee to be true to type.

Japanese maple seedlings do not grow true to the parents form. If taken from a red cultivar, they will likely be about 75 percent normal green seedlings, about 24 percent shades of red in spring and fall but green or bronze through most of summer, and about 1 percent (or less) should be a nice looking red foliaged tree.

I have seen thousands of seedlings from about 30 different cultivars of japanese maples, and only about 5 or 10 have been close enough to the parent to consider growing as a replacement.

About cuttings:
In general Japanese Maples are quite difficult to root from cuttings compared to other plants. Some vigorous cultivars root fairly well with lots of experience and great equipment/growing conditions. Large upright cultivars in general can be rooted more easily than dwarfs, variegates, or weeping varieties. There is also some question as to how well rooted trees perform as older trees compared to grafted trees.

I have personally never seen a cutting grown 'crimson queen' or 'red dragon' as the success rate is probably less than 50%, while grafting can be nearly 100%. The only weeping dissectum I've heard being cutting grown is 'tamukeyama', but this is very rare and I seriously doubt the success rate is above 75%.

Garden Gal: I thought it would be nice to have a nongrafted tree as it seems to be a rare find.

Matt: Thx. I would like to try and grow cuttings since seeds seem to be a poor option. If I could get a nice tree out of the process it would most certainly be worth it. I'm in no rush, and I'm young, so I have lots of time to experiment on what I consider a very most beautimous tree. Where should I look to find directions on how to optimially grow cuttings?

Would the Red Dragon be a better fit for cuttings?

I don't think any JM's are ideal for cuttings unless you have a facility specifically set up to do thenm and really understand what proper conditions are necessary for success.You may have success but I doubbt it ...in doing cuttings of my cut off root stock after grafting i'd say 10% is max I ever got and many of those kaputed over time . Rule of thumb is wait two years before you can be sure that they will make it...To each has or her own but either plant is available "grafted" reasonably from varias places and you can often pick up larger "grafted" QQ's in june from kmart for under 10$$. Of course if it has some special meaning to you that is cool but most likly a waist of time IMHO...But time and energy and the waist thereof is more or less important to everyone and to each their own ..David

If you want to try rooting a Crimson Queen or Red Dragon, the way to do it is through air-layering. JMs are known for being very hard to root, but air layering is a different matter. However, a red dissectum that was air-layered would probably need to be staked while growing to keep it from flopping on the ground, and it also might not have a strong root system compared to grafted specimens.

Yes, air layering would be the best option...the only downfall is that you must have an established tree to do this. It would not be economically feasable on large scale...but for a couple of trees it would be fine. I would suggest buying JD Vertrees' Japanese Maples as it has alot of good information on the trees and some good info on propagation. There are other books that have more general propagation information...but JMs often need special considerations that other species do not.

As far as which dissectum would be better...my guess would be none. They simply don't like to root. If you decide you want to try it, I can give you some information on some tricks that might help. However, I haven't personally tried it yet; I've only heard of techniques from my boss at the nursery who has.

Matt:

I would love some information (I'm not looking for a quick fix--in fact I love the challenge).

I'm going out to buy the book tomorrow! I am not familiar with "air layering" but from what I've read so far it makes sense. When you say "established", just how established are we talking? Can I use just about any already grafted JM for this or does it need to be a few years old, etc.?

Also: If I air layer a plant, would I do it just above the graft, or would I do it on branches of an established tree? It seems I could buy a cheap grafted tree and try to reroot it using this process...was that your point?

Try googling "air layering." You can actually buy air layering kits. There also have been previous threads in this forum about how to do it with Japanese maples, but it was a while ago.

Here is my understanding about how to air layer. Pick some branches with new growth that has hardened off. Usually that would mean waiting until July or August. Take a sharp, clean knife or razor and cut about halfway through the stem about 8-12" from the end of the branch. Dust the cut with rooting hormone, and prop it open slightly with something like a toothpick. Pack the cut area with a very light soil mix or peat (dampened), and seal it up in a plastic bag, surrounded by foil or something that will keep out light and retain moisture. Leave the area alone except for occasionally making sure it is still damp. It should develop roots in a few months (3-6 months). When roots are well developed, cut off the rooted stem and repot in good soil. Keep rooted cutting covered with clear plastic in a pot, in a shady area until it is established.

I would suggest starting a bit earlier than july or august if you are in an area with significant heat during summer. I would say sometime towards the end of may or first of june would probably be better. This would avoid the hottest portion of summer during the critical first few weeks and extend the root growth since there will be little growth after september if any.

As far as established...I just mean a healthy stress free tree. Not necessarily a large tree, but tiny 1 or 2 year grafted trees are weak and may not survive this type of torture. I have enough trouble getting recently grafted trees to survive without hacking away at the branches.

As dawgie mentioned air layering should be done on a branch...but a relatively small grafted tree (3 or 4 year old) could be used I guess. The thickness of the limb should be about the size of your pinkie finger I think. Smaller branches could be used...but I think the success rate will be better if slightly larger (not too large as it will take much longer for the new roots to be large enough to support the new tree). These things usually take some trial and error practice before success, so I wouldn't recommend trying this just above the graft as a mistake will likely kill the whole tree.

I cannot stress enough the imprtance of keeping the peat the correct moisture. It shouldn't be soaking wet as this will cause rotting, but it should be moist enough to keep the limb alive. Good luck finding that balance :)

Dirr and Heuser in their "reference manual of woody plant propagation" cite high success rates rooting crimson queen. I dont have the text in front of me, but much higher than 50%. BTW the manual is a much better propagation reference than the vertrees book which I think is really lacking in the propagation section. Vertrees has no information about the specifics of rooting cuttings (which hormones, what concentration, medium, timing, aftercare etc.)

I just ordered "Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation". I also bought a practice maple. It was in the seedling section of the nursuery, someone must have overlooked that the maple was simply a rootstock for some sort of red-lacy maple--how do I identify?

Anyhow, the stock tree (3.5' x 3.5') has 3 large branches coming out around the dwarfed, red/lacy maple (16" tall x 2' wide). I will practice air layering on these 3 and get the red/lacy maple into good form from the low graft in which it is housed.

Any suggestions here as to how I should preserve this tree? It's in good shape but completely overgrowm by its parent plant.

(I am new to the hobby, so my terminology is probably way off. don't be afraid to correct me!)

Thanks,
Greyfolk

Identification will be difficult since there are about 10 common red dissected cultivars. If you post pictures we can give it a shot, but it won't be a sure thing. The best way to tell would be to compare it to several known red dissectums side by side throughout the growing season.

The overgrown shoots definetely need removal since their growth hinders the growth of the grafted variety.

BTW your terminology is fine.

I think it will be harder to tell right now what species it is because it has been growing under the canopy of the rootstock for a few seasons. I think once I remove the stock the true colors of the red/lacy will show. It looks like a Crimson Queen to me--the fine, lacy leaves that grow under the canopy and tend to be a little more green than the ones on top--but what the heck do I know? By spring of next year I should have a much better idea I suppose.

Could someone who has a copy of Dirr's "Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation" post a summary of his suggestions for rooting Japanese maples? I am curious about trying to root a few cuttings. A branch was broken off my Seiryu by the high winds lately, and I'm keeping it in a small vase of water in the meantime. Might also try rooting some cuttings from my Crimson Queen, which has grown very large and wouldn't miss a few small branches. I picked up a small bag of rooting hormone at a nursery yesterday, so I should be good to go.

My copy is in the mail. Why not air layer as you suggested to me before?

If you get any successful rootings from the CQ I would love a baby tree! Let me know how it goes.

I don't see anything on air-layering in this book? What am I over-looking?

Air layering - I'd skip. You may also try bending a branch as to not snap it and bury the curved part in the soil and stake the upright section so the buds are heading in the right direction. Should take about one year.

Here's from Dirr which by the way is the source and the best book on the market for woody propagation.

(Acer palmatum) Cuttings:
Man individuals root Japanese maples from cuttings. The success ratio varies from 0 to 100%. In general, softwood cuttings should be 6 to 8" long (smaller in less vigorous cultivars), wounded, 1 to 2% IBA-talc or solution, well drained medium, mist. When rooted they should be left undisturbed until they have gone through a dormant period. Supplemental light can be used to induce the cuttings to produce a new flush or growth. This is accomplished immediately after rooting. Commercial growers use this approach as a matter of routine. The senior author has observed rooted cuttings of 'Bloodgood' under lights. The plants that produced a new flush of growth survived the overwintering period in greater percentages than those that did not. Normally rooting takes about 6 to 8 weeks.

Several nurserymen force plants in the greenhouse and utilize the soft shoots. This can be accomplished as early as February and March. The cuttings can be treated as described above and have a long growing season to accumulate carbohydrates and, thus survive overwintering. Se Wells, J.S. Amer. Nurseryman 151(9):14,117-120 (1980).

Juvenility strongly influences rooting, for cuttings from a 50-year-old tree rooted 25%, while 80% rooting was obtained from 4-year old seedlings that were forced for 30 days in a greehouse.

Late June (Tennessee), 3 node, 2.5 to 4.5" long, lower leaves stripped, single 1/2" long wound, 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0% IBA-50% ethanol-5 second dip, peat:perlite, 77 bottom heat, mist, evaluated after 81 days. For the 3 IBA concentrations 'Bloodgood' rooted 97, 80, 83%: A. palmatum seedling-83, 90, 90%; 'Crimson Queen' 97, 100, 87%; 'Viridis'- 100, 90, 97% and 'Ever Red' - 37, 53, 57%; respectively. Unfortunately no mention was made of stock plant age or overwintering success, but the results indicate that, with attention-to-detail, Acer palmatum and cultivars can be rooted in high percentages.

Dirr, Michael A and Heuser, Charles, Jr. ÂThe Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation: From Seed to Tissue CultureÂ; (Second Edition 2006); Varsity Press, Inc. ISBN: 0942375092 or ISBN: 13: 978-0-942375-09-1

Dax

P.s. All that IBA stuff - 2% would be an IBA stength of 2000. 8%, 8000. Growers have had a lot of success with 'Dip and Grow' - you may use that. You may also want to use 'Jiffy Plugs'. As a small-time propagator, I've had much better success with plugs. AT least try both (50/50 peat and perlite & the plugs) Good luck!

For the 'Dip and Grow' - use 10 parts water to 1 part product. That's what the big boys do.

Again, good luck!

Dax

I took 4 cuttings off my Crimson Queen as well as two small branches that broke off my Seiryu, and I'm trying to root them now. I cut all of the branches cleanly using a razor blade, and treated the cut ends with Rootone. Trying to root them in some commercial potting soil mix. We'll see how it goes. It's been about 5 days now, and they're not dead yet.