I think you MAY be screwed either way....but I agree moving a distressed tree is not an option!! David

Was the manure fresh? Only quite fresh manure should have that effect and should be avoided anywhere in the garden until well aged. If well aged, it is very unlikely that is the source of the problem and the leaf damage should be attributed to some other cause - often with Ukigumos that is simply getting used to different light conditions. If so, keeping it well-hydrated (but not soaked) should encourage some new leaf growth. As long as not in heavy shade, bright light, not direct sunlight, is all that is needed to encourage leaf development and photosynthesis. I'd agree that moving a stressed tree, specially at this time of year should not be considered.

Unfortunately you are going to have to make a decision. A couple of things could be at work against you. 1) if the planting hole was high in nitrogen you could have easily burned the foliage, but the cause of burned foliage is not a direct on the foliage itself, but the effect on the roots effecting the leaves. Burned foliage due to fertilizer is usually directly related to burned roots--sometimes severely.

2) Compost and amended holes and planting sites have an unusually high propensity for holding water. Compost as well as manure will compact and hold water while prevent proper aeration. Whether or not you have burned the roots you may have created a situation ripe of root rot or disease. If you burned the roots and the site is wet as well as it being summer, the tree may be on its way to the compost pile.

What you have to consider is that you Ukigumo will respond to strees very similar to the way it would respond to either of the above or both situations. If it is stress, yes you will lost a year of new summer growth, but it will likely be fine next year. If the above situations apply, you will probably begin to lose wood and see some dieback and then a quick decline of the plant.

A 7ft plant will have a good sized rootball, but not too large to manage (was it b&b?). I would be on the fence, but I might consider getting a large nursery container and filling it with forest humus (fir bark etc) and some perlite or pumice (or a commercial cactus mix) and transplanting it into the pot. Move it to the shade, don't fertilize, keep moist, and in a few weeks give it just a little dilute 0-10-10. Redo you planting site and plant back out in the fall or first thing in the spring.

This is a drastic measure and it is possible your plant will be fine if left alone. You might wait and if you start to see some dieback, follow the above potting instructions and immediately prune out the dying or dead wood.

MJH

You wrote: "About 80-90% of my beautiful variegated leaves are partial/very brown." This on a 7-foot tree which was planted this spring.

Some folks say that such post-planting wilt and browning is "shock." That's true only if you define "shock" as a shortage of water in the plant's top growth.

Perhaps the manure is contributing to the problem, perhaps not. Depends upon how much was added.

The facts is that the tree was planted so recently that the roots aren't yet established in the surounding soil.

So, to keep the plant alive through summer's heat and beyond, you'll need to provide sufficient water to the area of the original rootzone.

And definitely don't fertilize, not with anything.

Further, I agree with those who say don't transplant a .stressed tree. It will only make things worse.

But you might rig temporary shade, this to help decrease the top's demand for water -- water which the roots aren't yet capable of providing.

Thanks for the input, everyone!

Sounds like the consensus is: Keep the tree where it is, gently water, and hope it improves. But if it doesn't by, say, October -- should I consider re-planting *then*?

-Fred

Dig it up, replant in good topsoil that has not been manured or fertilized. Do not fertilize--including manure--again until soil has been tested and found to have a deficiency. Fertilize using product that addresses that particular deficiency.

Mulch with wood chips or similar material after replanting.

Do not replant in small area of different material (amended planting hole or pocket of topsoil) surrounded by other material (unamended soil or other soil that is differently textured from that within planting hole). Replant where soil texture will be uniform throughout rooting area for many years.

Be sure to provide good drainage beneath rooting zone, Japanese maples must have good drainage.

Fred,

Great storyline. The recommendation to keep the plant moist, not soggy is correct. The problem that many of us have is that we assume that because the plant has no leaves that it doesn't need as much water. I can tell you that I've finally learned that lesson and water my leaf-loss plants on the same schedule as my healthy plants. Just make sure the soil isn't soggy. Test the soil for moisture before watering to make sure. The extra effort to make sure you're not overwatering will be worth it. Sorry about the nitrogen. I killed a beautiful Peaches and Cream with too much uncomposted tree bark in the mix. You always end up hurting the ones you love.